HAMMER DOWN

IIRC 26ft.lbs. for all the 14mm bolts & nuts, but I set mine at 30ft.lbs. where I have to use an swivel socket & extension.

Mike

This is the inside of my turbo housing (hotside) and the turbine wheel. Can I swap this to the new turbo and use it, or is this to much?

 

http://youtu.be/o8_Bq3xt8gY

PM return, What did you decide to do, replace hot side or return.

Mike

The bolt is the same size as all the other UP & DP bolts (14mm). For removal of that bolt. Use a 3/8" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to break if free. Then I use a 1/4" drive-14mm swivel socket & 10" extension to remove the bolt. It very tight spot, 1/4" works a lot better for removal.

Mike

I wouldn't say that you should go with a rebuilt 40, as they are unreliable.

:spin::spin::spin:

I my 40:):lol:

 

hammer down do you know the size of fuse that feeds the dccd controller?

10a

^^^ It have a oil pump to feed the moving parts like the oil pump in a engine. The DCCD is a electric magnet wet clutch diff. The more voltage you give it the less slip you have between the front & rear diff. The DCCD controller supplies min. voltage to the DCCD at all times. 05 STi MT, min. setting is 65\35 split to the rear, Max is 50/50. Fully open is only happens when you switch the power off.

Copy/ paste from my swap thread;

Here is more pics. of the ” Spiider’s” Auto DCCD controller install, wiring, switches install and I add my own "E" brake kill switch. which will open up the center diff. whenever I use the "E" brake. Just in case I feel like drifting the rear around in the winter.

OEM DCCD control switch used for good looks.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072127.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072124.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909072126a.jpg

I put the pics. in order of connection from Power tap to ECU. Autozone as a 10a mini piggy back fuse set up. Just plug it in to the fuse port for the 12v accessory out let. Run wire to the DCCD controller that seat so nicely on top of the Air bag control unit. I used 3M 2 sided tape & a long zip tie. JB weld G sensor in place. Run TPS wire to ECU under passanger side floor panel.Why'll I was there. I hooked up a switch to my test wire connector. So I don't have to dig them out every time I use my APv2.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071710_edited.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071708a.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071712.jpg

I found this roller mini switch at Radio Shack. It is prefect for what I needed to do. All it does is cut the ground circuit. When the "E" brake is used.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071533.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0909071532.jpg

Mike

You mite have to remove the bottom fly wheel cover on the tranny if you have a MT. Had to do it for mine. So the front lip of the oil pan could clear the lip of the oil pump. Once you lift the motor up. Take the nuts of the motor mounts & spin them back on . Then you can set the motor back on the frame & get your lifting device out of the way. I used a rubber hammer to loosen the pan from the block.

Mike

Look a line 7 in killer-B install thread. http://killerbmotorsport.com/index_f...structions.htm

Surpassed 220k+ on the way home from work today.

Mike

I was watching the Meaty video and he mentions that he doesn't like the Gates t-belt. Is that a common opinion? If so, what's everybody using as a good replacement belt?

He was referring to the Gates Kevlar BLUE racing TB belt. He showed some idlers with blue "$h!t" caked on them.

Mike.

Any signs of failure on the oil pickup?

No, here's pics. in other thread.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4366415&postcount=33

Mike

It should look as good or better. It's all depends on if your oil & filter you're using is good for the OCI your running.

Mike

Still rocking the Original Motor & VF-40 Turbo with 15k OCI. Stage 2+, custom tune at 18.5psi. at almost 220k.

Pics. of bottom of engine with oil pan remove.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132030_zpse01f0f58.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132059_zpsc873e54e.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132057_zps3d53bf8b.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132054_zps88be02d8.jpg

Clean enough you can read the stamp lettering on the connecting rods.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132101_zps3274215b.jpg

Original OEM oil pan (which was replaced do to rust blisters) with no metal flake.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0328132116_zpsc521a2cc.jpg

Mike

Did my timing belt & other thing over the course of the week.

This is my 2nd TB change. The 1st at 110k, TB & tensioner only. The 2nd I change everything with a Gates Complete TB Kit & Water pump.

With almost 220k on water pump & idlers. The water pump was still in fine condition. No signs of leak, shaft play & spins smooth & quiet. But did replace it with the new one in the kit. The idlers was still in one piece & rolling good, but noisy. Play in the idlers, range from none to least then 1\16". All was replaced. Did notice that the Gates Complete TB Kit uses full size small idler pulley. Didn't have to cut down or fine a shorter bolt, like in Meaty's video. They also use the same big idler pulleys for top & bottom on the PS of the block. Pics. of the differences between the OEM bottom idler pulley & Gates bottom idler pulley. The differences, mounting surface, .017 back space & .005 O.D.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0325132234_zps0a0fb77d.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0325132233_zps24e1a7f0.jpg

The vise grip work well for holding DS cams in place. But I would put two wood shims between the cam pulleys & then clamp the vise grip (do not need a lot of force to hold cams in place).

Do it this way,

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/0324132022_zps28eb8ddd.jpg

So you don't do this.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/tomsanity/Subaru%20Legacy%20GT%20timing%20belt%20replacement%20project/2012-12-26234258_zps62d8d649.jpg

Mike

IIRC, Max said that it was cheaper to buy a new\re-furbished block (around $1800). That his engine builder couldn't re-furbished his old block for the cost of a new\re-furbished block from Subaru.

Mike

Hammer Down, how long were you running the custom map? Were you running a OTS Cobb map before then? I want to go Stage 2 soon, but want to make sure it's reliable. If you ran the OTS shelf a while before pro tune, then I'd feel pretty good about it.

Ran Cobb stage 1,93 oct. map for 140k. Peak boost 16.2psi.

Custom 1mm, stage 2+ map from Mike at Tuning Alliance for over 40k. Peak boost 18.5psi.

Mike

OK.Cool! Where is Tioga County NY? I'm in Ulster County.

 

Rob

Upstate NY (Southern Tier) Between,Owego,Ithaca & Elmira NY.

You've never replaced the timing belt and water pump?

 

Rob

WikedWgn

Just the timing belt & tensioner @ 110k. I'm a little over do, but waiting on some parts & a full weekend. Job crazy busy, 6 days a week, 55-66 hrs. I'll be a lot over do by time I have time to get it done.

Mike

 

And, not judging, but how do you get around in snow/ice/slush conditions on tires that look like they're at/near the end of their useful service life?

Because it's a Subaru:rolleyes::spin:

Just rolled over 215k. Still rocking the Original Motor & VF-40 Turbo with 15k OCI. Stage 2+, custom tune at 18.5psi.

Mike

It does, it's what your oil filter spins on to.

From thread; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

oil cooler, I used the deep impact socket from the set I got at Harbor Fright for like $15.00 to remove the big nut stud that holds it in, again with the impact gun.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4734.jpg