HAMMER DOWN

...and you're not running E85 correct?

Correct, I'm running 93oct. E85 is not really available in my area.

 

Do you know what the flow rates are at say 10-11v? I found flow rates vs PSI at 13.5v but that's not helping

Nope, not a clue:rolleyes:

Sure that makes sense and is an issue with aftermarket pumps (since they are rated at certain flow at 13-14v). But with OEM pump, which was designed around all the voltage drops in mind, means it will flow the same still.

 

The big downside of forcing 100% all the time is, shorter pump life.

 

That why I'm running the Deatschwerks 265 LPH In-Tank Fuel Pump (65c).

So did you do this mod or just bypass the fpcm completely? I destroyed one of the pins for the fpcm harness and I'm considering just wiring around it. I guess a few sti guys have done that.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

Have you guys had good results with telling the ECU to always use 100% duty cycle? Or is the problem just that the stock pump controller doesn't provide enough power at 100%?

 

No, I bypassed it. Been running at 100% duty cycle for almost 2yrs.(about 70k) with no issues.

 

IIRC, LGT as smaller gauge fuel pump & FPCM wires then the wrx & Sti's. Do to voltage drop off, FP never runs at 100% flow rate.

I ran a 10 gauge wire power & ground wires for the FP. And use a relay & the FPCM wires to turn on the FP when the key is turn to "RUN".

Has anyone ever run across a 16" wheel that will fit over LGT brakes?

No, the smallest wheel I found that fit the LGT, was a steel wheel: 17x6.5 / offset 55.

 

Need to run front OB front brakes to run 16's.

Thanks again for VF-39 updated map. When I switch from my VF-40 with over 314k on it.

The VF-39 map is running strong & smooth. Nice surprise, gas mileage is up 1.5mpg, from 24 to 25.5mpg on avg.

Replaced the original VF-40 with a Six Star Speed VF-39, at 314600 miles. That's been on the shelf for almost 3yrs. Drop DP & check turbo for shaft play: Not bad, no in & out, but some up & down, but not enough play to hit the sides of the turbo housings.

Amazing with the number of miles you have. Heavy white deposits may indicate running lean or too hot, though.

 

Or the injectors, they are original. Never been touched. Mite switch 3 & 4 with 1 & 2 to see what the spark plugs look like.

Then perhaps it is probably time to check!

 

do you have a way to log? Any cylinder roughness count at warm idle?

 

The last log I did are good & all cylinders roughness count is 0:cool:.

valve clearance?

 

Max Capacity has his signature that tells people to check their 'oil level'; me I keep telling people to check their valve clearance .

 

Not a clue, never checked. But she does still run strong with not knock to red line:cool:.

Did a compression test today.

Cylinders\ PSI

1)150

2)150

3)150

4)160

 

Spark plugs 1 & 2 look good, but 3 & 4 are badly worn, with heavy white deposits.

Slipping? did you slip the clutch enough to make it smoke/stink? Do you have a DCCD controller hooked up to the DCCD?

 

If the answer is "no", it mite not be the tranny. Before you drop the tranny. Check to see if all your axles are seated all the way. If just one axle as popped out. You won't have enough pressure on both sides of the DCCD & it will act like your clutch is slipping with out the smoke/stink.

 

This is what happen to me after I did my swap. Left rear axle work it way out as I was accelerating out of a apex. I heard a pop & the RPM's revved up like it was in neutral. I could limp it home by turning the DCCD controller to "Full Lock", but even doing that it wouldn't take much torque to make RPM's rise like it was in neural.

 

It a place to start, good look.

I've had a reman axle in mine for 44k miles without issue. No idea on brand though.

 

I think a lot of reman axles are great. But the quality control on them is crap, so it's just a bit of a crap shoot.

 

IIRC I have over 100k on my rear NAPA axles.

+1^^^

Go back to page 143 of this thread and read the posts....

 

How many posts per page do you have on? Perhaps a post number to start reading at might be a better guide for him

 

To help out, post# 143 is on page 10.

Morning commute avg. 65min. Evening 75min. = 2hrs. 20min. a day.

As long as it running good. I'll run it, till it pops. But oil consumption is on the rise. Depending on Compression\leak down test. Mite send turbo out to check it's seals.

 

Miles are about 40/60 City/Highway.

^Whaaaat?

 

Amazing. How many miles do you do per day again?

 

Around 120 miles a day (M-F,) 650-800 miles a week, including Sat. & Sun.

Rolled over 310k on the way to work today.

And NSFW, that put all the info in a few post. That I put in my 1st. post. So others don't have to search through 145+ page thread.

^^^ As long, as you can pay to play;)

^^^Just in case you didn't read this Sticky; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html

 

Might help you make you turbo decision.

In my experience the average lifespan of a turbo EJ255/257 is 120k miles.

Got to love exceeding the limits by almost 3x:wub:

I went with a 4-post, because it was free standing & turn my 3 car garage into a 4.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/1224091627.jpg

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/1224091627a.jpg

On avg. 15k OCI.

MY OC cost is about $125. For 2 oil filters & 11qts. of oil. 7qts. for the OC & the other 4qts. will be need for top offs over the 15k-17k OCI. That works out to under $35 for Subaru's 3750 OCI.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif

1) Is the cable still attach to the inside handle? (If yes), when pulled does it feel like it's still attach to the hood latch.(If yes), have someone pull the inside latch & hold it open & you hit the hood with the palm of you hand.

 

This didn't work. It still firmly unlatched.

 

You mean latched.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif

Can you see enough cable to got vise grips on to pull cable an open hood. (If yes) but hood don't open. Repeat above. (If no) Peel back the cable housing to expose enough cable to grab a hold of.

 

I don't see how to peel back the housing. Do you have to cut it with a utility knife?

 

At the plastic release handle, remove the cable & clamp vise grips and pull hard. If cable is broken, cut back cable housing( whatever tool that necessary to get the job done, Knife, dermal) to expose cable to use vise grips.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by HAMMER DOWN http://legacygt.com/forums/skynetim/buttons/viewpost.gif

Last if all else fails, you mite have to remove part of you grill (with hole saw, dermal or drill) to get too the driver side top hood latch bolt (12mm). Which also holds the anti thief shield. Once shield is removed, use long pliers or screwdriver to trip open the hood latch.

 

Is there no way to get to this 12mm bolt with maybe an extension and u-joint?

 

Thanks.

 

Yes, after you sacrifice the center of your grill.

 

1st I'll start by spraying some PB Blaster on the latch mechanism. You wont be able it hit directly, should be able to spray it, using the straw attachment. Spray up behind the center of the grill and soaking the general area. If cable is still attach to the hood release mechanism, repeat set one.

 

good luck, Mike