HAMMER DOWN

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4387413&postcount=31

Part#'s are right off the box.

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/

Around the same price as OEM. But it 3x strong & can be 100% rebuildable for pennies on the dollar.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1387540&postcount=87

So I'm looking at doingng a swap deal on a spec b trans. Does this package include everything I need?

 

Legacy Spec B Transmission

Non DCCD Tranny (no need for a diff controller)

Cusco Tarmac Center Diff

Stock or Carbonetic 1 way front Diff

Factory Shifter and Mounts

 

 

R180 Rear End

STI Axles

STI Spindles

 

He says he has the necessary gear to mount the trans. But what axles/driveshaft do I need to use the r180 rear? From my understanding the sti axles won't work.

All "?" is answered in 1st post.

Please read.

yah, yah....original motor here too. how are you on the original turbo still??

Copy/Paste from other threads;

This;

Want your turbo to last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed.

 

Mike

And this;

Yes the filters + the oil line add 2 qts. Mine always took 5qts. to fill. Just above the full line. Now take 7qt.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ons-81741.html

 

Pics with fender & bumper cover removed when I installed the RacerX FMIC.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213b.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213.jpg

 

 

 

Mike

I wonder sense the IP&T oil like kit is no longer offered. If Bryan honor his warranty using, AMSIOL General Use Dual Remote Oil Bypass Unit Oil System. Like I install back in 2007. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

Back in 2007 is cost about $250, now it's over $270.

Or just change his warranty policy.

Still running the original AVCS, Motor & Turbo. Detail in sig. below.

herd a bit of rattle on decel ..

 

coupple hours and swapped it out.

 

last time it tore the center right out in 2006 at the drag strip.

You know this wouldn't happen with a 6MT:rolleyes:

Here's one; after hard running I get a burned oil smell and occasional smoke out of the hood vent. I'm pretty sure it's turbo related. There's no oil visible on the turbo, none getting flung up form the CV joints.

I have an AVO380 that's about 2 yrs old, and a built motor with a high-flow (or high pressure, don't recall which) oil pump. One guess is I'm getting oil pushing by the seals and into the exhaust side of the turbo causing oil burning smell and occasional oil smoke out the hood vent.

I'd love to hear thoughts on cause and resolution

tanks mang

Check PS valve cover. When I had smoke out of my hood scoop. The PS valve cover was dropping on the UP.

Surpassed 230k+ on the way home from work, almost 2 weeks ago.

Mike

I don't understand. You use two oil filters? When you say you usually add 2-4 quarts, is that on top of the 7quarts you say initially or the ~5qt needed for the first fill?

 

Please explain.

The Dual By-Pass Filtration System add 2qt. to your 5qt.OEM oil system, 2+5=7qts. My LGT uses 2-4 additional qts. of my 15-17k OCI.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html

Mike

To add; My OC cost under $100, ( 7qt. of 0w-30 Amsoil SSO, 2 Ea oil filter, EAO26-EA, EABP90-EA). But I usually add 2-4 qts. over my 15k-17k OCI. Which puts my cost between $114-$129 over my 15k OCI.

 

Now divide that cost by 4 ( # of OCI if I did OEM OCI(3750) over 15k) Works out to $25-$32 per OEM OCI.

All I can say,^^this^^ been working for avg. 15k OCI for almost 200k:cool:

Last Friday I ordered parts for R180 rear diff. swap. Used 05 STi R180 (under 60k), new 07-09 Spec.B axles, axle seals, diff. cover & front diff. mount.

 

Mike

Picked up parts for swap.

Copy/paste from other thread;

What all is necessary to swap the two diffs?

What I swapped, R180 rear diff that matched transmission , 07-09 Spec.B rear axles, rear diff cover & front diff cross member. R160 yoke & rear mounting studs from your old diff.

What's different between LGT old rear diff part & R180 (04 STi) swapped part.

07-09 Spec.B Front diff cross member;

Steel Vs. AL & has a more room between the top of cross member & bottom of the diff. to keep rear diff knocking to a min. under hard acceleration.

07-09 Spec.B rear axles;

Axle input shaft to rear diff is .050 bigger O.D. & .38 longer.

07-09 Spec.B Rear diff cover;

Measuring from the bottom of the diff cover to rear mounting studs. The Spec.B measures .12 longer them the 04 STi cover. So if you use the STi cover, the rear of the diff would set .12 higher in rear chassis. Drain plus are different too.

R160 yoke & rear mounting studs;

To have matching bolt pattern to drive shaft. Rear mounting studs are a good 1" longer then the STi's studs.

Mike

Last Friday I ordered parts for R180 rear diff. swap. Used 05 STi R180 (under 60k), new 07-09 Spec.B axles, axle seals, diff. cover & front diff. mount.

If parts come in on time. I finely complete my STi drive train swap this coming up weekend. The R160 lasted over 156k of hard driving ( drag strip, & towing 3500lbs & 120 mile daily commute).

FYI on 07-09 Spec.B axle owners. I talk to a friend that's part owner of a NAPA store. He called his supplier, They have the axle, but Subaru as not released them to the aftermarket. So they can't sell them to us. You have to go through Subaru. But if you own a pair, Napa can send them in to get re-manufactured. That what I was told.

Mike

Corrected part# in 1st. post. For R180 diff mount from the spec B - 41310AG040.

There was a "T" where the "G" belongs.

Mike

Updated R/H & L/H front axle seals #'s

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2482975&postcount=354

DeltaNu1142 ,

IIRC the only differences mite be is the height. Check the height of the your Group N 5MT tranny mount .vs the STi mount that comes with you kit. If it's taller, you mite have clearance issue between top of trans. & drive line tunnel. Plus you will change your drive shaft pitch.

Sorry, sense I didn't use my 5MT Trans. mount. They looked the same to me & went with the STi mount, because it has less movement. Open mouth insert foot.

Mike

6MT rear shifter bushing is not in the list of parts needed for swap... can use stock or aftermarket 5MT?

This,

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0804072051.jpg

Then yes & your Group N 5MT tranny mount. You can use it too.

Sense I only had the OEM 5MT Trans. mount (left). I used the OEM STi mount (right) that came with my swap.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/0914072340.jpg

Mike

If the Throw Out Bearing is still attached the fork should be there. I guess it would not hurt to ask though.

 

I have read that it is OK and I have read that it is NOT OK not to use the DCCD so...:spin:not sure about that one.

 

You may already be aware of this but - Make sure you use the Neutral Safety switch from your 5 speed transmission. It also helps to have your wiring harness squared away before you install the transmission. I learned the hard way that the 6 speed Neutral Safety Switch does not work with the LGT (it has a reversed polarity).

 

Good luck with everything, you will LOVE the 6 speed.

From what I read way back when I did my swap. It's both, DCCD is need for 04-05 STI 6MT, because the DCCD is a full electric magnet, wet clutch center diff. 06 & up not needed right away (IMO) do to it's part mechanical & part electric magnet, wet clutch center diff. But neither on was designed to run with out a DCCD controller.

Mike

Find the wheel base for the 2011 STi. If it's the some as 05-09 LGT the drive shaft will work.

05-09 LGT 4EAT drive shaft = y" = 62.5 total length. My custom drive shaft is 63" total length

Quotes that my help you figure thing out.

Look at this pic. again,

http://www.thrashdriveshaft.com/Imag...ion%202009.JPG

 

Measurement from the rear diff. flange to the center of the carrier bearing bolt ( 36.12" ). Then measure center of the carrier bearing bolt to the end of the tail shaft housing is (24.12") of the 6MT. You want 2" to 3" of the slide yoke inside the tail shaft.

 

36.12+24.12=60" ,The 60"is from the outside of the rear diff. flange to the outside of the tail shaft housing. The rest of the length of the drive shaft is going into the tail shaft. If your total length is around 63". That means you have 3" of penetration in the tail shaft housing. With out penetration your car goes nowhere & the drive shaft falls to the ground.

 

Mike

So mine should be OK then as its like 62.5

 

Yea I looked at that again before you posted this morning and realized yours was only 60 plus what goes into the transmission.

 

I think the one I got will be fine, unless there is something funky with the Outback XT length.

 

Thanks Guys

Mike

You guys are forgetting the differences between the 05 LGT & 05 STi wheel base, IIRC 5".

Mike

Info. from ALLDATA.

Crank Pulley;

Tighten the bolt temporarily with tightening torque of 44 Nm (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft. lbs.). Than re-torque to 132.7