HAMMER DOWN

Forgive me if I missed this somewhere but what was the cost of the total system and the cost for an oil change with filter?

The system as changed sense I bought mine 4 yrs. ago. Total cost for me, around $250 (tax, shipping, extra short 90deg. fitting & hose.)

Oil change cost around $125 for 15k OCI (7 qts. of oil, 2 oil filters; 1 full flow; change every OCI, 1 By-pass; change every other OCI, 2-4 extra qts. oil do to oil consumption.

Mike

No, I only have 2 oil filters, 1 full flow, change every 15k & 1 By-pass, change every 30k. AMSOIL EaBP Filters have an efficiency of 98.7 percent at two microns. At normal operating RPMs the EaBP Filter will filter all of the oil in a typical five quart sump in less than 10 minutes.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eabp.aspx

Mike

Been using it for 4yrs. & 114700 miles. With no oil filtration system failures. At 15k OCI using Amsoil 0w-30 SSO & Ea filters. Went stage2+ at 174k & no shaft play on the original VF-40 turbo. Banjo filter bolts after 100k was clean. So I remove both filters from the two banjo bolts & reinstalled with new washers.

Mike

05-09 4EAT Legacy drive shaft fits. Outback is built of the same platform. It should be the same. To make sure, total length is about 63."

IIRC Scooby2.5 4EAT Legacy drive shaft measured 62.5"

Mike

Sorry I must of scrap my 5MT's DMFW, clutch & pressure plate. I can tell you that the 5 & the 6MT's have the same spline.

The 5MT's is a "push" Through the action of the slave cylinder, pushing on the clutch fork. The TOB is "pushed" into the pressure plate finger. Releasing the clutch.

The 6MT's is a "pull" Through the action of the slave cylinder, pushing on the clutch fork. The TOB is "pulled" away from the pressure plate finger. Releasing the clutch.

Mike

Let me go to my garage an check my theory out. Going to see if 6MT pressure plate will fit up to the 5MT's FW. And other thing you can check on. Is the JDM 04 STi was 5MT. Need it see if it was a "push" or "pull" type clutch action. If it's a "pull" like the currant 6MT's. Then you mite need to just replace you pressure plate.

Mike

I'm not at you power level. Last dyno at stage 1, I was at 240ft@3000 rpm. (now stage 2) I used Stock 05 STi clutch & SMFW. At over 100k on OEM until. It still holed full acceleration with a 3500bls. car in tow. IIRC, I think the OEM is rate to hold between 350whp-400whp.

Mike

Can someone please clarify before I buy the wrong part? I just want to drive my car again!!!

3 options;

1) Call Driveshaft Specialist 1-866-455-6622. Talked to Jeff. They have the info. on my drive shaft. Front shaft 24.12", rear shaft 36.12". Uses 1310 XL u-joint & 2002 Forrester Wagon A/T carrier bearing with 05 LGT carrier bearing mounting bracket to bolt to the drive shaft tunnel.

2) 07-09 Spec B driveshaft, and replace the differential's input flange with the R160 flange. If you using a R180 rear diff.

3) 05-09 Legacy 4EAT driveshaft ,Over all drive shaft length should be about 63"

Mike

Your build was impressive, I was thing to top you build to do a V8 & keep AWD. Rotate drive train 180deg. Just to be a little different:rolleyes:.

But in reality, the truck space is to short (center of the rear wheels to the end of the trunk) in both the LGT & BRZ. Still think the BRZ would make a nice mid-engine, AWD, two seat platform.

Mike

Need to make rear engine to keep it AWD & Top frank_ster build:spin:

Kind of what I like to do with the BRZ:)

Mike

I mostly run it in auto mode, but I still can't turn it up more than halfway, otherwise mild throttle will cause it to bind in sharp corners. In manual mode, it will start to bind at a bit less than 25%.

 

I was thinking of contacting him about this actually, it seems like only half of the range of the knob is actually usable. He mentioned that it's programmable but I haven't looked into that yet.

 

Have you guys noticed that sometimes it will switch from auto to manual? It seems to happen somewhat consistently when the engine cranks longer than usual before starting.

Half is for dry the other half is for the lose & slippy stuff.

Have Auto only, no problems with the engine cranks longer than usual before starting. But can make my Knock Sum count go up by turning the DCCD control on & off.

Mike

Sounds to me you are talking about manual mode.

 

In auto mode there is almost no biding as it still adjusts.

it changes the agressiveness of the map changes depending on driving conditions.

This is different from a stock STI where the the thumb wheel doesn't do anything in Auto mode.

 

In manual mode it stays where you put it with the scroll wheel.

 

I was looking for more of what people are doing with the wheel in Auto mode

No, when I bought mine, you had to pick one or the other. Manual or Auto. He didn't comebined the two until later. I have the auto & a OEM thumb wheel. It lets me control the DCCD lock up rate in relation to TP input.

Mike

Dry & wet roads, I running it all the way down to put most of the power to the rear wheel. Halfway on dirt & snowy roads under a 1". Snow cover roads over 1" Full lock. If you run Full lock on dry Or even wet roads, you can feel drive train bind when corning & sometimes even on straightaways.

Mike

Not with out breaking anything. Some things to try & check out. 1) Is the cable still attach to the inside handle? (If yes), when pulled does it feel like it's still attach to the hood latch.(If yes), have someone pull the inside latch & hold it open & you hit the hood with the palm of you hand. It mite pop open. This means your hood latch needs to be freed up, cleaned & lubed.

If you answer No to question 1). Can you see enough cable to got vise grips on to pull cable an open hood. (If yes) but hood don't open. Repeat above. (If no) Peel back the cable housing to expose enough cable to grab a hold of.

Last if all else fails, you mite have to remove part of you grill (with hole saw, dermal or drill) to get too the driver side top hood latch bolt (12mm). Which also holds the anti thief shield. Once shield is removed, use long pliers or screwdriver to trip open the hood latch. Hope this helps.

Mike

PM some Tuners on this site or the one that tuned your car. See what they think. From what I read. I haven't read about people with or without enhance power levels changing there timing belts earlier then OEM spec. +/-10k.

Mike

K&N Typhoon intake, GMS Crossover & UP pipe, & Invidia HI-Flow CAT DP & V2 cat back. Exhaust clip, inside on out. Sorry for the dirty LGT

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/th_100_4960.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/th_100_4962.jpg

Crap I've only been putting in 4.2 quarts.

Should have known better than to trust the manual.

 

Jk I actually overfill anyway so I'm like 4.5 quarts. But that actually sounds like a more cost effective option than the KillerB pan if it really picks up two quarts. Might be worth looking into for that cost...............

Yes the filters + the oil line add 2 qts. Mine always took 5qts. to fill. Just above the full line.

Pics with fender & bumper cover removed when I installed the RacerX FMIC.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213b.jpg http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213a.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l293/HAMMERDOWNGT/Subaru/th_0920112213.jpg

Mike

Another filtration option, ups your oil volume from 5qts. to 7qts. & filters your whole oil system down to 2 microns.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ons-81741.html

Amsoil 0w-30 SSO & Ea oil filters. ^^^ above^^^ My OCI avg.15k Running Cobb stage1 93 map, max boost is still 16.2psi up to 174k. Original motor & turbo are running like new with no shaft play.. Now I want stage 2+, GMS Crossover & UP pipe, & LW crank pulley & heat shield. Invidia DP & V2 cat back, Perrin TIH, Racer X FMIC. With running Cobb stage 2 93Oct. map. For the last 3000+ miles. Waiting upgrade stage 2, 93 Oct. AP map from Tuning Alliance.

I'm very happy with the reliability of this car at over 300k+, with AMSOIL lubricant protecting everything.

^^^ yes , It seems if you drive a Subaru other than a STi. You don't get any respect. A racing stripe on a LGT is like when Subaru's had fake hood scoops. People would just think your a poser & your car is all show with no go. Until they see nothing but taillight:eek:.

Mike

Sorry, but I mod the STi shifting linkage. It's 3/8" to short for it to be centered in the center console. Maybe you can mod your shifting knob like I did with the Auto Zone knob. You do need a 6MT shifter from a Spec.B or STi. 5MT shifter wont work. There's no reverse lockout knob.

Mike

nope, my 05 STI 6MT quiet as it could be.

Mike