HAMMER DOWN

LOL I wonder how many shortblocks and turbos it would take to reach 400,000 miles....

Just one of ea. I'm almost 3/4 the way there:cool:

I know there is someone on here running 0w-oil but I'm not sure I like that 0w in these engines.

For over 250k, 15k OCI, over 100 of runs down a drag strip & towing up to it's own weight..

I'll say the "Right" 0W-30 oils & filters work just fine:rolleyes:.

Short answer, after installing it, the car idle fine, ran ok up to around 3k, if you pressed the throttle slowly, but the rpm's fell on it face around 4k. If you go WOT, it will lean out & almost stall out.

Little more detail, I get 14.2v-14.5v output from the alternator. 13.8v-14v at the FP. Put the FPC in between the Alt & FP.

Last 2 Email with then explains it all;

The returned FuelPro was received this morning and tested this afternoon. The unit is functioning fine and no issue was found with it.

I asked him to get a video off of the scope for you. The video is in two parts, first is the pwm input and second the PWM output on

a fuel pump with max. 14 Amps draw. Here is the link to the video on dropbox:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4vinudnlitfsurb/20150511_161158.mp4?dl=0

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Best regards,

DCCDPRO INC.

Reply;

That's not good.

Just means I wasted more of my money, time & your time. All I know that it didn't work in my car. With over 14v supply & a 5v ECU signal. Pump voltage at start up is almost 11v. Just to shortly drop to 2.6 & max out at only 2.85v.

Dumb question, did you checkout voltage to the pump?

Whatever, if you say it's good. Return it & I will reinstall it again. And if it don't work, I guess I just have a $200 paper weight.

Good day,

End

FYI, they was very helpful to answer all questions & exchanged ideas to work out my issues with their FPC. But the end of the day it didn't work. On the bright side, I been running their ProDCCD controller for 8.5yrs. & over 200k miles with no issue. It's an awesome controller.

^^^ I tried it & did work. Send it back & they checked it out, it fine. Reinstalled it again & still didn't work. Thru it in a box of used parts & been running my DeatschWerks Fuel Pump - DW65c at 100% duty cycle for over a year/40K miles, with no issues.

Maybe you have better luck.

The big question here is do you want to risk the heads to find out if the bottom end is going to live. If you strip the motor at the first sign of debris in the oil you'll likely save the crank and heads from damage. If you roll the dice you risk the cam bearing surfaces and crank journals being scored beyond rescue for the prize of not having to build the engine. Only the owner can really decide if it's worth the risk.

 

 

Sent from a device using some software.

This reminds me of that old saying, "You can pay a little now or whole lot more later."

Sucks to hear about that shop taking advantage. $800 for endlinks and bushings?!

Those guys are crooks, and saw you coming. I wouldn't be surprised if they were responsible for other shady stuff (like, whoops, pinhole in your WG hose, see you in a few weeks with a blown turbo!)... these cars are reliable if you take proper care of them, but can be ticking time-bombs if they are neglected or abused.

 

175,000 the other day:

 

http://i67.tinypic.com/2a7v48h.jpg

+ 100

Rolled over 280k a few days ago. One of the most reliable cars I've owned:wub:

Told ya, latent!

+100 .

I give Mike @ Tuning Alliance, Amsoil & my maintenance OCD. The reason I can still push my 10yr. old LGT, 18.5 psi of boost & hit 7300 red line multiple times a day. With the mileage I have on it.

Love you story Max, but be careful you don"t end up like this guy.

Davis, 42, has been sentenced to 28 in months in jail for reckless driving

http://www.carbuzz.com/news/2015/11/7/Driving-192-MPH-On-Public-Roads-Got-This-Man-A-Major-Prison-Sentence-7730272/

I'm no saint, I just don't admit or take videos of my daily drives .

Going to check the local junk yard tomorrow and see what they can find. I hate the put a new shaft in there at 214,000 miles. If I have to go new it will be from DSS out of Texas. HAMMERDOWN and others recommend them.

FYI, my DSS Drive shaft is still working perfectly with over 200k on it.

Byron sent me to Mike at Tuning Alliance. I was running Cobb Stage I tune up to 2011 (about 140k & 22mpg). Went stage II & Tuning Alliance maps ever sense. With over 275k now on the car. It never fails the put a smile on my face when I drive ir to this day. Still runs awesome & avg. 24mpg. I couldn't be happier with Tuning Alliance's Maps.

Thanks Mike

A quick search, I found this; Measurements taken warm. Straight from the '05 STi FSM.

Oil Pressure:

98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or more at 800 rpm

294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi) or more at 5,000 rpm

I see the answer to question #II, but unless my reading comprehension stinks, question number I is still up in the air: how did he take the cam retaining bolts off without turning the cam?

You are correct, he only told what he used to remove the cam pulley bolts, but not what he use to hold the pulleys.

Sorry, I assume \ read between the line of his post. People usually use the correct tool of the job. Search Company 23. Or Some as used the TB to hold the cams on place to break the bolt free.

Hey man, excellent work - thanks for sharing. The internals of that engine look fantastic, especially for 185K miles. I have two questions:

 

I.) How did you immobilize the cams to get the stubborn cam bolts out? did you use a cam holding tool or some other approach?

 

II,) what oil have you used in this car?

Post #2 to answer "?" #I)

Post #4 to answer "?" #II)

A 2005 LGT with 241,000 km? From what I read here, you will soon be paying for an expensive valve job.

 

I'd say that 185,000 miles might be due to the bearing exceeding its service life. Maybe not.

Good luck on your part. To caught that bearing issue in time.

I vote for "not" . If so my bearing must be paper tin by now.

Do to age, mileage, deer, NYS rust & road debris. The LGT goes in for total Repaint ($3500) Sept. 21.

Deer; DS head light assy., grill,DS front fender DS rear quarter panel.

NYS rust; DS front door & Rear deck.

Went over 275k last weekend.

The LGT just don't get driven as much, this time of year

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1302218&postcount=59

Post #59 as all you need to connect 6MT slave cylinder to OEM LGT slave cylinder banjo connection.

Hammer...what oil and filter do YOU use?

It's in my sig. below.

Filtration set-up:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html