cheeseenlo

Nice photobomb of the little one! Those TiC cam bolts are so worth it. Look into Radium's low profile banjo fittings. They're pricey but might help you with your clearances with the cover. http://www.radiumauto.com/Low-Profile-Swiveling-Banjo-Fittings-P1355.aspx

@UnderdogGrab these front/rear calipers if you haven't found them yet.

I've had a pretty gnarly squeak after my SpecB aluminum control arms swap. All of the available poly bushings from Whiteline were installed so I would think this may have contributed to it. I will have to investigate greasing up the sways bars, I haven't touched those in years. Last night, I followed IAG's steps to adjust the clutch pedal. They recommend this for all multi plate clutches after a quick discussion with them. I'm not sure why this wouldn't apply for stock or aftermarket single plate clutches. Anyhow - this was such a pain in the ass. Tapping the hole for the clutch stop would not have been possible without this small tap from Wera. A normal sized tap would need to be cut down. Once the clutch stop was installed, the clutch start switch had to be adjusted. This is where the fun begins! The jam nut is way up there with almost no room to fit your hand up there. A stubby 14mm is the only way to do this. Also don't drop and lose the nut like me, somehow I couldn't see where it landed and it's somewhere under the dash behind the carpet. It's a M10 x 1.25 nut in case you need to buy a few before attempting this. You'll need to depress the clutch and check that the switch is contacting the clutch pedal plate. Reference CL-37 for more information. There's honestly no way to accurately measure the gap (3.1-4.1mm) between the plate and the switch inside the car. I wanted to fabricate a bar to hold the clutch pedal down and pinned against the seat but if it slips, it would've been game over if I was going to get whacked in the face/head from the clutch pedal. https://www.kctool.com/wera-104668-single-tap-bit-m5/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInPi2s933_AIVMsmUCR1nwgtLEAQYASABEgKF3vD_BwE

Adulting, is by far the biggest hurdle for me. The weekends is just catching up on all the shit we couldn't get done during the week. We have two kids now both under 3, so it's a real challenge. We will have to plan for some sort of childcare. I won't be voting just yet, but there are some weekends that are blocked already i.e. Mothers/Fathers day and Birthdays.

How much does something like this cost to do? I’ve always wanted the alcantara inserts that the SpecB has but they are rare to find in good / excellent condition. Also having memory seat settings would be a plus.

JR / Prime Motoring did all the tuning on the dyno. I would never have done all the tuning remotely with my build. I have a wideband in the car as well. I should've noted that I clipped the beginning / end of the log. Attach the full one now. More info below responding to @xt2005bonbonas well. @xt2005bonbonSo this log was taken from my original motor not the currently built one. I was sending logs back and forth with the tuner to figure out my issue which ended up being the NSS. Once I swapped it out, I performed this 3rd gear pull to show them I was able to reach full boost. I was still on the 5MT tune but the car was already 6MT swapped at the time of this log. Based on the tuner's strategy, it was required to get a re-tune which could indicate those values you're seeing. I'm no expert at reading logs but would love additional insight. Yes - I ran E60-E65 winter blend. I was preparing the car for another round of FF tuning, so I had to bring the ethanol final down between E10-E15 before they could tune for pump 93. @m sprankWas this a kill mode tune, perhaps. I'm not sure if JR holds back on his tuning but I did let him know I wasn't chasing numbers and I wanted to protect the stock block at the time. datalog39_5MT_Stock Block.csv

Wow! 3300rpm on a 6MT must be really fun. I would've loved to take a ride in a setup like this. I dug up a log from a few months ago. On the 5MT w/ pump 93, the car hit target boost (21psi) at 4139rpm in 3rd gear. IIRC, with E85 it did bring the power in a bit earlier. If I can get near 3500 rpms while sacrificing a bit of top end, I'd be happy. Attached log for those who are interested in see a datalog of a 1.5XTR. Nice! My 6MT is from a S402, nothing extraordinary since it has SpecB ratios which is what I really wanted. I added a STi FLSD without DCCD. I wanted to keep things simple for now but may add it in the future. As for the swap, I only put about 50 miles on the car so far. The clutch is a sprung twin-plate organic so it does require re-learning to make things smoother. Engagement is getting better with time and it still allows some slip especially getting into 1st or reverse so it's easy to maneuver the car in tight parking spaces or the garage. I wish I could provide more feedback but would like more seat time before really saying anything. Gear changes have been smooth. 1st and 2nd is super short and will surprise you. I'm not used to the throw distance since I came from a KB STS on the 5MT. I already have Cobb's 6MT double adjustable STS waiting to be installed. I'll install it likely this summer when the weather is nicer out. datalog39 (1).csv

Holy heart breaker dyno. That's quite a large delta in numbers. It's not apples to apples considering my car has ID1300s vs 1000 and EWG vs IWG. This STI also has a FMIC which I don't have, but that's still a 70hp difference. I'll post up numbers when the car finally gets re-tuned with the 6MT. @NORULZleggyI was on the fence about retuning the car when I did my 6MT swap. I had mixed feedback from different tuners, but ultimately Prime who did my first tune said it was necessary. Based on JR's tuning strategy, he tunes wastegate duty parameters to mimic boost by gear or gear logic. Additionally, like I mentioned earlier there's a difference in how the 5MT vs 6MT loads if you're dyno tuning. I'm assuming some minor tweaks would be necessary. I didn't question it further since I was chasing my 6MT NSS issue so I immediately thought it was a tuning issue associated with the 6MT swap. If your tuner says its all good between the swap, I would trust them.

Yes - long story short, I was planning on doing just the Stage 2.5 short block from IAG. However, not knowing what the failure was at the time, it was unclear if the heads / valvetrain would be salvageable condition. This was right before Thanksgiving so I had to jump on their holiday / BF / CM deals when I had the chance. If I factored in new head castings with Prime's recommended valve train components, it wasn't far off from just getting the 700 long block from IAG. Yes - GSC S1 for drivability and based on Prime's recommendation it would suit the turbo better as well. Yes - the key is smiles per miles. Like I said, I wasn't chasing numbers but I was looking for a streetable performance. I did miss the instant response / hit of the VF46. The 1.5XTR pulled hard but wasn't reaching full boost until near 4000-4100 on the 5-speed. Where have you seen these turbos reach full boost? Hey! My build isn't a slouch either. At the time, I was running 1300x injectors, IAG rails, AEM 340 pump, parallel -6AN fuel lines w/ Aeromotive FPR. Turbo is a 10cm setup for EWG w/ Turbosmart 40mm wastegate, Cobb catted downpipe, Killer B holy headers and up-pipe. The only thing I haven't done is iWire's hardwired pump kit. I plan on also including Radium hanger before my re-tune takes place after break-in.

100% @m sprank Some background - previously on the 5-speed, with pump 93 this same tuner got the car at 398hp/355tq. After my 6-speed swap hence the re-tune on the dyno the car made 440hp right before the failure. I was quite surprised with the gain which I questioned the tuner. His response was the resolution and loading between the 5 vs 6 speed is fundamentally the reason why the car is seeing more power with the same mods. Unfortunately, the car couldn't get tuned on E85 with the 6-speed but previously on the 5-speed, it made 478hp/423tq. Based on the previous tune, I was told that the MAF scaling was near it's limit which he had to dial back to keep things safe. The recommendation at the time was going SD and a quality FMIC for more power. I was running the GS intake and TMIC. But I wasn't chasing numbers. This time around, he definitely gave it the sauce since previously he kept things more linear and gradual to preserve my 5-speed. So this may or may not have been the cause of the failure. The tune was pushing the stock internals pretty hard and I believe the failure would've been inevitable even if it was detuned. @UnderdogThis tuner (JR) is well known, tuning for several other shops including Six Star and Killer B. I wouldn't question his ability but definitely gave it the beans this time around. The dyno at Prime Motoring is also a Mustang, I'm not sure of their correction factor or other variables that might contribute their setup to be high or low reading. But the boost target was kept at 20-21psi. From what I was told, this was consistent between the 5 vs 6 speed tune. The feedback from JR (after it blew up) was that my car made all the power he was asking based on the tune. It was literally the last pull before they began E85 turning.

Yep, stock pistons. Original untouched motor @ 44k on the dyno being tuned. On 93, the car on it's final pull made 440whp. After that pull the motor shut off and would not turn over. Prime Motoring took it apart and found pistons 1 and 3 with crown damage.

Finally got the car back from the shop! Longest time the car has ever spent away from my possession. Anyhow, the break in miles will be agony since I don't drive much. I have 1500 miles to drive before Prime / JR will tune the car. No noticeable change in driving characteristics so far with the IAG 700 long block w/ GSC S1 cams. For those who have followed my earlier posts, Blouch replaced the CHRA and exhaust housing. They found some contaminants and saw some pitting in the housing, most likely piston fragments when the crowns cracked on the dyno.

@UnderdogI have a set of ID1000s, shoot me a DM. They are used, but should help you out with any troubleshooting you need to get done.

@m sprankWhich fuel lines do you recommend? Asking if I had to do this again. I used Earls Ultra Pro lines and the AN fitting for my parallel / equal length line setup. I used their Polyester Braided lines (not SS) which were very easy to work with considering you need a sharp blade / box cutter to make your cuts. It was my first time building my own fuel lines and I learned a ton. It wasn't the cheapest but I wanted something easy to work with. I forget how many lines I made in total but not a single one leaked / failed after I leak tested each one overnight under pressure. The only thing I wasn't fond of was abrasion resistance with the polyester. I don't expect the lines to move around much but definitely could get snagged on sharp edges/corners and expose the inner liner.

@TMBLKDGThe KB endlinks made a substantial difference for me, I also had reinforcement brackets installed. Not sure if that made any difference. However, looking at your endlinks you will need their spacers. They should be as perpendicular as possible to the ground. Also, based on WL's guide for the locking collars, they can be installed on either side. Both inside / towards the center of the car for each collar. https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/kar-kb-017wls-kartboy-whiteline-front-swaybar-spacers https://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/install_guides/Z5160.pdf

I recently found this as well, 08/09 EDM Legacy / Outback accessories brochure. I stumbled upon this when researching JDM spats and strakes. Lots of part numbers and prices might be better compared to JDM if you decide to import. I'd really love the sedan cargo mat since it was never available for us here. 08MY_LegacyOutback_Accessory.pdf

@SubOperatorWhen I swapped to the 6MT, I removed the clutch delay valve (CDV) on the slave. It's pretty simple to do and can be easily reverted back. The delete in theory allows more predictable, repeatable engagements from the clutch. I can't tell you if this actually helped me or not. Based on my research before the install of my twin plate clutch, it was recommended. It's worth a shot before you actually replace the slave. https://www.wrxforums.com/threads/clutch-delay-valve-removal-diy-a-must-for-rough-to-engage-clutches.22744/ Thanks @Max Capacity I went ahead and sent the turbo back to Blouch. The shop provided me the emotional support. I'm doing it for peace of mind and for $700 not to hurt the new IAG block. It's all part doing things right, once.

Blouch quoted $699 to service/inspect my 1.5XTR since it's a ball bearing turbo. That's half of what I paid for this back in 2019. Compared to the cost of the build itself, this isn't much but I think that's steep for what it's worth. From what the shop told me, they don't think a rebuild is necessary since the turbo did not run after the engine failure. I was there when they cranked the motor over a few times but it started. Compression was down from the two pistons with cracked crowns. Not sure there would be any chance oil was contaminated and from the cranking it pushed oil through the turbo. Do you think it's 100% necessary to have the turbo looked over by Blouch? I was thinking peace of mind check, but $700 to start is a lot of money for them to look at it. If they find anything wrong, the cost goes up further and it will be close to what I've paid brand new. Thoughts?

I have a set of PS4 A/S and they're great. I came from 10yr old Hankook Ventus V12s. The PS4s are definitely comparable. The only negative I really noticed between both tires were sidewall compliance, the PS4s felt much firmer. They are hard to find now due to popularity, I bought 4 originally and were delivered next day by Tire Rack in Aug 2021. I decided to buy a 5th as a spare earlier this year in May and they were delivered in October.

@UnderdogDon't part out this car out. At the right time, a buyer will come forward. It will be exactly the year, trim and condition they are looking for. It's just timing and if you have time, that person will make that offer inevitably. In my opinion, I would list within the forum first. Visibility is lower but for those who are still active we can vouch for the build quality, reputation of the owner and overall value of this vehicle. I actually sent this to my buddy who has been looking for a SpecB. If you want to share pricing over PM, I'd gladly share this with him to see if he's interested. Not knocking BaT or equivalent auction sites which will generate more visibility. But I'm with you on the no reserve deal. It's a toss up in the end, you won't have a choice if its way under what your expectations were on final sale price.

Agreed 100%. It was merely a non-scientific comparison between each one. Could the weight contribute to better filtration, possibly. Only way to find out is to cut it open, which I might do now. I'll see if RCM can share their oil pressure bypass rating. Based on their website's description of the product, they have produced this with higher oil pressure in mind. [UPDATE - RCM provide the techs specs. Bypass is set at 1.7KG/cm or 24psi based on conversion calculator] Our first job was to ascertain exactly what we needed from our new filter in order to cover the needs of today’s modern performance engines. Filtration was obviously on the top of the list, a sustainable high quality filter element would be needed capable of trapping dirt and debris but whilst not restricting oil flow any more than necessary. Our next consideration was oil pressure; if we could obtain slightly higher oil pressure this would almost certainly be a good advantage given Subaru’s “boxer” engine design and the need to circulate oil efficiently. Next was build quality, we needed a filter that would perform over and above our expectations with no compromising on the quality of materials. With our goal set in our sights it was time to speak with our friends in Japan. Long standing experts in oil filter manufacture and with a long history of producing high quality automotive components, it didn’t take long before testing and design was underway. Some months later the “RCM Race oil filter” a component designed to overachieve in all areas of performance and quality was born. Containing the largest area of filter element when compared to its competitors our oil filter will not only cleanse your oil of dirt, debris and contamination but it will also offer you the distinct advantage of higher oil pressure.

I was definitely looking at the RCM timing cover too. I think they have the best build quality for what's available in the market currently. IAG's version is discontinued. Other options are Cusco which is pretty spendy too. I saw the Ichiban Engineering one and the price point was great but I've never heard of them before. How long did it take for them to get it to you?

@EnlightThat bottom downpipe nut is a real PITA. I've heard some people just leaving it off completely without any issues. Every time I'm in that area I replace the nut with a new one and anti-seize. Most times if I'm planning on doing any work there I'll soak them in penetrating oil for a day or two if I can. A stubby wrench has worked every time for me. Also - where did you get that clear timing cover? I've been looking into them also for my rebuild too.

It's definitely minor differences in production. I know when I installed mine I needed a crowbar to get it to line up with the studs. I also deleted my factory oil cooler and have a Mocal oil sandwich plate with spacer. At the time I wasn't able to find the correct length filter stud to work without the spacer. If anyone here knows, that would be great so I could get rid of the spacer altogether. Also - shop tore the motor apart and found both front cylinders with crowns cracked. They suspect I had unnoticed ringland failure and the motor had enough on the dyno. It's odd to have not noticed any symptoms of ringland failure especially to two pistons prior. They even mentioned, its unusual to see two pistons fail simultaneously. Some pictures of the piston carnage.

@Febreze MeeI bought a few of these a while back but they wouldn't fit with the Killer B headers. Doing oil changes is a royal PITA with these headers. But, I wanted to share the fancy oil filters I recently got as well. I did a quick weight comparison between the OEM blue, RCM and Mazda filter. The OEM blue and RCM have identical dimensions. The Mazda filter is quite a bit taller. After I run one of the RCM filters, I'll cut it open to see how they look inside. I haven't seen one cut open before. OEM blue - 156g RCM - 231g Mazda - 232g