cheeseenlo

@GearJamr I've always loved the Fujitsubo / FGK mufflers. I wonder if they line up correctly with an AVO mid-pipe I have right now. Show us some pictures of the setup if you have a chance.

Nice. I have my engine hoist tucked away in the corner of the garage. If I saw this earlier, I would've let you take it so you could get the job done. I'm not far from Queens at all, so if you ever need help or want to chat let me know. If you're ever in a pinch, I have all my stock parts that I've been hoarding. I've kept everything including my 5MT drivetrain. This car has been with me since Day 1 when I purchased it new back in 2009. I've been reluctant to sell off the original parts, all under 45k miles. It's also funny how you've looked into the pre-heater for the forged motor. I actually just picked up the OEM engine block heater that installs into one of the coolant plugs next to the dipstick. It won't get the coolant over 100F but it's still better than 10F or lower. If I really wanted to, I could install supplement that with an engine oil heater w/ an internal heating element. I'd have to find one with a thermostat so it shuts off at a specific temperature. My quest is to keep the forged block alive as long as possible.

Thanks everyone. The car currently has a KB oil pan w/ their baffle and pickup. I figured the pan would be pretty easy to clean. I went with a new KB pickup for piece of mind since I would think it's more difficult to clean. Prime Motoring actually didn't advise to replace those items but I went ahead with a new pickup anyway. Being OCD, I ordered all new camshaft position, crankshaft position and knock sensors as well. The crank and knock sensors are a PITA to get to with the manifold installed. I figure spend the money now with new sensors. Hoping everything else that is carried over from the old long block will survive and not deteriorate when uninstalled. I'm so over budget, it really hurts to see the grand total. Majority of it is just parts. Everything just costs so much and it adds up quick. The labor is actually fairly reasonable if you get a long block vs short block.

Yea, I blame it on the 6MT swap from earlier this year. It's been a never ending streak of bad luck / unforeseen events since. If I kept the 5MT, I think the motor would be still alive. Either way, yes, I'm getting new cam gears, solenoids, 11mm oil pump and oil pickup. I've deleted my oil cooler since I have a KB header w/ a sandwich plate adapter for a future oil cooler. So that's one item, I didn't have to buy new. I'm really hoping that once this new long block is in I can really enjoy the car with the 6MT.

@EnlightAre you still looking for an engine hoist? If you are, send me a PM. I can help you since your in Queens, NY.

So, some unfortunate news. The car had a major engine failure. The car was on the dyno when it happened at Prime Motoring. Basically, the car was doing a pull which it completed but shut off right afterwards. It would crank over but wouldn't start. They haven't torn down the car yet but believe it could be a broken camshaft which is very unusual. I'll be sure to update with what they end up finding. The car made great power, 440hp/350tq on 93 pump gas. This was on the 6MT. Previously on the 5MT, the car made 398/355. Boost peaks at 21psi, this Blouch 1.5XTR continues to impress. Right now, I've pulled the trigger on an IAG 700 Long block. I went back and forth between a short block only vs. the long block. I took advantage of all the Black Friday / Cyber Monday deals but it still a lot of money up front. All oiling system components except the pan will be new. I'll likely get the turbo sent back to Blouch for full teardown to ensure there's no debris or damage that will hurt the new motor. Any recommendations on other parts to replace would be greatly appreciated. This is my first engine rebuild so I'm learning along the way.

Based on my conversation with Dave @ Rallispec, Motul 75W-90 Gear Oil will likely not be available for a while or indefinitely. It's been over 6 months now without any production so it could be a fundamental issue with how this product is manufactured. They have substituted with Liqui Moly Hypoid Gear Oil (GL4/5) 75W-90 for now and found it to work very well. It appears to be readily available at this time. With that said, when they did my 6MT swap they still had Motul fluids. Now that the weather is below 50F, I've noticed way more gear noise, front LSD especially and a slight grind going into 2nd / 3rd at low speeds. I never experienced this before with my original 5MT w/ Extra-S. Different gearboxes, but I felt that my 5MT shifted so much nicer even in cold weather. I'm wondering if the Liqui Moly gear oil would work better in cold climate conditions.

I got 4x 901120103 for the swap. I forget if it was 100% required but also so I could have fresh/new hardware to work with. I also purchased the rebuild kit from Centric which includes the cross springs, pad retainer and retainer pin.

@NORULZleggyThe fronts will be straightforward. I would get everything you need with Ken at KNS. If the seals and/or pistons aren't in the best shape I would get those changed out before installing. You need to be confident that your car will stop. Brembo seals only if you don't want any issues. I also swapped out all the bleeders to the SpeedBleeder which is a 1-way check valve. Also - make sure your wheels clear these. I have set of 18x8 +44 and I needed an 8mm spacer to clear the front calipers. So, the bad news is I don't think there's an off the shelf solution for 08+ STI Brembos with a rotor and/or adapter bracket that will work with the Legacy GT. I'm sure people may have found a way but it's not going to be easy to do yourself. I recently did the conversion with 04-07 Brembos and the only issue was the wheel fitment (which was my own fault). Because I also have the SpecB rear trailing arms, they needed some slight grinding to clear the KNS adapter bracket top fastener.

@unclematMessages can't go through. Maybe your inbox is full. Can you send pricing shipped to 07075?

PM'd.

My swap was with a SpecB/S402 transmission. However, this wouldn't have been a problem if the previous owner's vehicle was an 07+ LGT. If your swapping a SpecB trans into a 05/06 LGT you'll still need to swap the NSS and splice/extend it to reach the plug. After a successful test drive, I'm just kicking myself for not doing enough research. All of this could've been avoided so hopefully this info can help others.

Cross-posting to share relevant info for future swaps. The correct neutral sensor switch (NSS) swapped out. The key to getting enough space to get to the sensor is unbolting the driveshaft. It allows the trans to pivot / tilt just enough to get your arm through with a 19mm wrench. Test the switch out by rowing through the gears and watching your AP monitoring Gear Position. Neutral should be 0. In gear is 6 when the car is not moving. I tested this with the car still on jack stands. The part number for the NSS is 32008AA181. This is the correct length so you don't have to extend / splice your existing 5MT NSS (LGT 07+ only). For the 05-06 years, you'll need to extend your existing NSS since the STI transmission switch is on top vs side (5MT). This part was on backorder from Subaru so I had to call a few shops to see if they had one available. Luckily, Rallispec had one so I didn't have to find one from a junkyard. Here's a great write up from iWire about the NSS changes between model years - https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/neutral-position-switch-and-your-subaru-transmission-swap

The correct neutral sensor switch (NSS) swapped out. The key to getting enough space to get to the sensor is unbolting the driveshaft. It allows the trans to pivot / tilt just enough to get your arm through with a 19mm wrench. Test the switch out by rowing through the gears and watching your AP monitoring Gear Position. Neutral should be 0. In gear is 6 when the car is not moving. I tested this with the car still on jack stands. The part number for the NSS is 32008AA181. This is the correct length so you don't have to extend / splice your existing 5MT NSS (LGT 07+ only). For the 05-06 years, you'll need to extend your existing NSS since the STI transmission switch is on top vs side (5MT). This part was on backorder from Subaru so I had to call a few shops to see if they had one available. Luckily, Rallispec had one so I didn't have to find one from a junkyard. Here's a great write up from iWire about the NSS changes between model years - https://iwireusa.com/blogs/iwire-university/neutral-position-switch-and-your-subaru-transmission-swap

Ha! Good call. Is don’t think the trans move that far down but it doesn’t hurt to undo it. Did everything I could last night but the transmission moved probably an inch. Not enough space to even get my hand to touch the sensor. I was hesitant to pull the driveshaft so I wouldn’t lose any fluid. Hoping I can drop the driveshaft from the rear diff and have it angled down enough to get more tilt. Other than that I might have to get creative here.

@rhino6303 I didn't get very far this weekend. But here's my plan of attack - -Support the transmission -Remove the crossmember bolts. Remove the radiator support brackets / shroud. Remove the dog bone (trans side) -Remove the front mount intercooler -Loosen the engine mount nuts -Slowly lower the transmission Hope I'm not missing anything but the goal is to have the tail end lower enough for me to snake my hand in between the tunnel and the transmission. I'm not sure if the driveshaft will bind up if I don't remove it from the trans.

I might as well post here also. I didn't go through this thread entirely which is 100% my own fault. The NSS differs between the 05-06 and 07+ model years. I figured this out by using the AP logging gear position. It continued to think I was in neutral while in gear. When out of gear, the gear determination logic thought I was in gear (6 through 1). In short, the switch in the earlier years is normally open, later years is normally closed. Wish me luck on the swap out. I'm attempting to do this without dropping the transmission fully.

Car is back up on jack stands. I thought I had done enough research on my SpecB 6-speed swap, NOPE! The NSS differs between the 05-06 and 07+ model years. I figured this out by using the AP logging gear position. It continued to think I was in neutral while in gear. When out of gear, the gear determination logic thought I was in gear (6 through 1). In short, the switch in the earlier years is normally open, later years is normally closed. Wish me luck. I'm trying to do this without dropping the transmission.

@NORULZleggyI'm running into a huge issue right now. After the drivetrain swap to the SpecB 6MT, my car is now experiencing a throttle plate issue. It's not opening correctly based on pedal input. I started another thread here, so I won't derail this one to far. My tuner initially said the car would need to be re-tuned based on gearing related to WGDC. This could be how they tuned it. So I considered that a fair point. At the time it made sense, since after the swap I couldn't reach full boost. We have been back and forth with logs and they can't figure it out. I'm not sure if this is 100% tuning related or a mechanical issue.

Long post - apologize in advance. Need some tuning gurus to help! Car is acting strange after my 6-speed swap. Not sure if anyone has also experienced this before. Here's some background - Right after the swap was completed the car felt different in power delivery. Sluggish acceleration and boost comes in much later than usual. I'm running a Blouch 1.5XTR. My guess was it was tuning related so I didn't think much about it. Tuner agreed that a re-tune is necessary to adjust multiple tables post drivetrain swap. On the dyno, the tuner immediately sees the issue and thinks its a wastegate issue, not tuning related. I bring the car back home and check over everything and noticed that the v-band clamp was loose at the up-pipe. BINGO! That must've been the issue, it was an upstream exhaust leak. Nope, took the car for a test drive and no change. Now, I've been back and forth with the tuner with some AP data logs. Now we're seeing a problem during WOT with the throttle position (plate) % not opening until much later in the revs. Basically, right before redline. I'm building boost very slowly with the throttle plate barely moving then it cracks open to 100% near redline. I checked with Key ON, Ignition OFF and the Throttle position % opens correctly. Voltage is normal. Here's a log from the other night if someone can take a look. datalog21_r1.csv

That’s awesome. Can you share the parts needed to get the USB port? My head unit has the ability to do Apple CarPlay but wired. This would help me out when I finally get around doing it.

Wow! I was considering the PPG forks as well. How much did that end up costing you if you don’t mind sharing? Was there a considerable amount of lead time involved? I spent more than I anticipated with my swap plus all the other things I had Rallispec do so I didn’t purchase a new FLSD. Based on their recommendation the helical FLSD is a robust unit and they have never seen one fail so that made me comfortable having a used one installed.

Nice! I didn’t realize you were still getting PPG parts. What did you end up doing? Was Andrewtech able to source a brand new helical FLSD also?

Good luck! I recently got my 6-speed swap done and it’s awesome. All gears including the R180 ring and pinion were REM treated, STI helical front LSD added and all upgraded syncros from the PO. I’m trying to find ways to drive the car more these days.

Nice! Did you just go PPG?