cheeseenlo

If no one here has one available, I would try Andrewtech or Rallispec. Most likely not new but it doesn't hurt to ask them what they have available.

Sorry to hijacker’s this thread. Didn’t know it was just the tail section assembly. I thought the SpecB housing needed modification to accommodate DCCD from the STI. It’s been a while since I’ve had gone through the 6MT Master thread.

@whitetigerCould you explain further on swapping the SpecB VLSD to an STI DCCD unit? I thought it wasn’t possible or not an easy 1:1 swap between the VLSD to DCCD.

Pinging all who have done this swap. Has anyone had to re-tune their car after a 5MT to 6MT conversion? I’m seeing a split, but from my understanding is I don’t. Currently tuned via AP, but I’m still going easy on the car for now.

What were the steps involved? In terms of feel, what changed?

Updated with all the photos and added some extras to go along with everything.

$2000 local pickup only 5MT w/ R160 including all 4 axles, driveshaft, cross member and clutch slave cylinder. Included will be all of the below. Everything has less than 2500 miles except for the shifter and bushings. Southbend Stage 2 Endurance Clutch w/ WRX Single Mass Flywheel Moore Performance Blast Plates v1 (not the aluminum version) PDM / Tranquil TSK3 Snout Kit (no previous wear on snout, installed for preventative measure) Verus billet clutch fork and pivot ball IAG Street Series Transmission Mount Kartboy Transmission Support Bushings Kartboy Short Throw Shifter w/ Bushings Spare parts - Resurfaced WRX SMFW flywheel - NEW 2x Throw out bearing - NEW Clutch fork - used for 20k miles Pivot ball - used for 20k miles Stock shifter - used for 10k miles Subaru Extra-S 75W90 (2 quarts) - NEW Subaru Gear Fluid 75w90 (4 quarts) - NEW

Do it once kind of idea. If the path for more power comes in the future, I wouldn't have to worry about the clutch again. The cost moving to the twin disk wasn't huge and what was appealing to me was that two full face organic disks would give me streetable characteristics with double the holding capacity power-wise. Clamp load is tricky because I've read that it would be softer than a super aggressive single disc but it also depends on the design of the diaphragm. I actually spoke to IAG about this clutch and they responded by saying - That might be my favorite street clutch out there. The pedal is super light and it holds over 700ft lbs of torque and drives super nice. You can't ask ask for a better clutch! I'll need more seat time for sure but initial impression is this will be difficult to street drive. I stalled it like 5 times in a row and felt like a total noob at the shop. Once I got home nerves settled and by myself, I didn't stall it once.

Picked up the car from Rallispec and HOLY CRAP...I may have made the wrong move going with a twin disc clutch (XClutch). The shop said this was the first one they've installed and it drove great along with it sounding way better than Exedy or ACT. I'm hoping I get used to it quick or I'm going to really reconsider swapping back to a single disc. However, the good news is that drivetrain felt great once moving and in gear. I won't know how well the helical LSD changes the driving characteristics until I get to push the car. Since I had all the SpecB arms and bushings installed at the same time, the car felt tight from my quick test drive. Rallispec / Dave and team did a great job, they took care of me and the car. They mentioned it was probably the nicest one, well put together example they've worked on so that made my day! I'll be posting up my 5MT drivetrain shortly. Who wants a low mileage (44k) full drivetrain?

Thanks for the feedback. I agree on the disconnect. We had to clarify on a few things at drop off. Hopefully they don’t miss anything. I’m doing a decent amount of work there. 6MT swap, SpecB aluminum suspension arms and Brembo conversion. The open diff is getting replaced with a helical unit. Rear diff is getting taken apart for REM treatment to the ring and pinion. Previous owner already had the transmission gears REM treated. If anyone is interested in a full 5MT drivetrain, please let me know. Low mileage at 44k with lots of upgraded parts.

@SubOperatorHow was your experience with them?

Dropped the car off at Rallispec this AM. 6MT install pending...

PM'd for the shifter bezel. Thanks!

I've used the kit twice so far. First time using with a Southbend Stage 2 Daily , which was amazing but had occasional chatter. Fast forward when I installed my Stage 2 Endurance clutch, I went with the TSK kit again along with a Verus billet clutch fork and pivot ball / point. The old bearing was a bit noisy, I think I put maybe 20-25k miles on everything but it wasn't failing by any means. In my opinion the TSK kit is a safety measure to keep the snout from getting destroyed. If the TSK bearing does fail, I'm hoping the sleeve should prevent the snout from getting damaged. I'm interested in the newer WRX TOB, if it has decent reliability if the TSK kit becomes unavailable in the future.

+1 for Southbend. I'm running their Stage 2 Endurance w/ WRX single mass flywheel and TSK3 kit. The pedal feel is not too stiff but definitely more than stock. Still very manageable in traffic. It's holding great at my power level without any chatter. Southbend also has top notch customer service. I inquired about some light chatter with their Stage 2 Daily (ran previously) and they told me to send it in to get replaced under warranty without any further questions. They upgraded me to their Stage 2 Endurance since I told them about my future plans for more power. I sent in my flywheel also and they covered everything free of charge.

Here's the setup - TWS T66-F (Gloss Silver) // 18 x 8in // +44 // Michelin All Season 4 235/40/18 RCE Tarmac 1 // RCE Lowering Camber Plates // -2 Front & -1 Rear degrees camber

Original owner! Deposit down in March 2009. Car delivered in July. Last I check, car showed 43,800 miles. This car was daily driven for about a year. I'd say the car would have 10k less miles if I picked up a beater. Currently stock internals running a Blouch 1.5XTR w/ supporting mods for the past 2 years. Car made 478/399 on E85 on a Mustang dyno tuned by JR.

The power for the sensor comes from a switched 12v fuse which I tapped using an Add-a-fuse kit. I didn't want to cut any of my wiring. I forget exactly which fuse I used but you could easily use a volt meter to verify. If adding multiple sensors, it's best to use the same source.

All my wiring is going above and through the driver wheel arch liner going towards the interior fuse box. You can route everything across to the battery / fuse box areas where you'll see a small opening. You'll be able to access the wiring if you pull down the liner slightly which will expose the grommet. You'll need to enlarge the grommet slightly to pass all the cabling. All of my sensors (wideband, oil pressure, oil temp and boost) take this pathway from the engine bay to the cubby.

The intent is to develop a printed part before moving to an aluminum bracket. I figure the cost to print one is much less than to use aluminum plate stock (which I already have). I'm accounting for revisions too before finalizing and getting the part made with aluminum to survive inside the engine bay. So you're right, I agree with you. You're just a few steps ahead of me.

AlexShu - I just PM'd you for a potential part development. If anyone else can help, I have a not so pretty bracket that supports my FPR which is mounted to the intake manifold. It's basic bracket using two pieces of bent aluminum that's been drilled and riveted. I'd like to explore printing a piece that allows a bit of adjustment and ease of removal. See photos for reference on location. I don't have a photo of the bracket itself but I can send takeoffs of dimensions needed if I get some help designing and printing the part.

Previously had GFB and my tuner said to get rid of it. Anything with adjustable recirculate vs to atmosphere has a potential chance to leak. I didn't take a chance and went with a new Cobb LF Bypass unit. No issues, still makes whoosh whoosh noises if you're into that on cold days.

Ah, thanks for your insight. I have a fuel filter installed right before it splits off to each fuel rail. The return from the rails merge to a single line back to my Aeromotive FPR. I run both E85 and pump gas on my tune, mainly E85 but I experience the same regardless of fuel. I would consider an inline dampener. If I find the time, I would do some testing to see if one or two dampeners would make any significant improvement. Essentially if I could add one, it would be right after the fuel filter before it splits off to the rails. For two, I would add one before each rail. That would be the most amount of work, since I'd have to shorten my lines and add additional AN fittings. But looking at Radium's trick FPR-D, Fuel Pressure Regulator-Damper I may be able to directly swap the Aeromotive FPR with this unit. But now the dampener will be after the fuel rails, so I'm not sure if that is another variable to look into.

That's unfortunate Tehnation, I had these issues with the stock tune and the stock fueling system. Now I'm on aftermarket rails, lines and FPR. I also don't have any dampeners. The fuel lines are ran in a parallel system. I'd love to see who else has these issues or who may have some insight / feedback on where to start looking for clues / solutions. I'm thinking it may not be tune related since I've had this with the stock / base tune and two tuned maps. Maybe it's a mechanical issue with fuel delivery.

Are you running aftermarket fuel rails and lines? Do you have any drivability issues with either FPR? I've been plagued by the low rpm, stumble, whatever you want to call it since the car was new. Stock, Infamous Tuned (Opensource) and dyno tuned currently, it still happens. It's annoying when I'm off throttle then back on, in first gear - generally around 1500-2500rpms. Makes it look like I can't drive manual with the bucking. Sorry for going off topic.