doobaruGT

We must have a similar setup. Hope we're not confusing Dave

Excited to move forward!

Sounds good. Could be something small, but with a leak like yours, I was expecting something more obvious. GL!

The techs at my local dealer are all friends of mine. FTW

In for results! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10 years in 11 months

One last thing. How about your wastegate? I'm wondering if it's stuck open or something. I even read of the wastegate door shearing for one member. That's obviously not common. You did say you pulled the exhaust side to check for play. Do you remember what the WG looked like?

The more I think about this, it has to be a decent vacuum leak. You're getting boost. Just not positive numbers. Your turbo moves with no shaft play (hence the increase in pressure in the line.) I can't recall, did you check the blue T under the IC? Edit: saw you checked this Also. I don't know much about the err on the dash, but that's suspect to me. I've seen a few of these pop up but haven't investigated the cause. Lastly, what made you pressurize from the TB and not from the inlet side? Maybe a professional smoke test would be worth it at this point. I've been there so I can relate to your frustration! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked back part way and noticed you found a leak on your BCS. Did you confirm your BCS is working? An easy way to do this (if you don't have a spare) is to plug in your green connectors and let the car run test mode while the key is in the "on" position but not running. You can then blow in each port as it cycles. It should cycle and close/open each port. I'll look for more details in the meantime. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm sure they're still available. It's better to order straight from the paypal link posted on the first page. I bought one last November without any issues.

Sounds like you've got some good problem-solving skills happening here.

You could make a boost leak tester out of cpvc tubing. You get a larger one that would fit where the intake is, cap the far end, install a quick fit for a pressure line, attach a pressure hose to about 15psi and watch the gauge and listen. It will reveal any boost leaks instead of throwing money at it with parts. Taking it to a shop would also be money well spent since you would at least know the issue then. Here's a rough idea on how to go about it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2205161 Sent from my iPhone using Ta

Right you are, Ken

Did you check again when you returned? That hose is very tricky to set correctly. If it's not seated properly and has not had the hell torqued out of it, the smallest relative pressure can cause take you right where you started. Small reminder that the "boost" is relative. In other words, positive numbers only mean atmospheric (14.7) plus whatever you're reading. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

^Accurate. The other option is to replace with a silicon TB hose and throw a t-clamp on it. You should notice a big difference. Check fred beans for the BPV gasket and either a) buy it there or b) have your local dealer price match it.

I checked this morning and it only reveals the brake line recall from last year. My guess is SOA hasn't gotten around to posting yet due to detailing specific vehicles affected or ours are in the clear. From the sound of it, it's on a car by car basis and cataloged by VIN. You might be okay, you may not...I'm going to continue check back to be sure.

Wonder why they specify the impreza platforms but just say, "legacy" for our platform instead of saying "2.5i, GT, 3.0R"?

This looks to be valuable but it's not cooperating. When I log into "my subaru", the only recalls that show up for my 05 GT are the brake line deal and the fan relay.

TB hose? That would cause the issues you're referring to. Hope it's that simple. Had the same on my 05 GT. It likes to appear sealed and hold under low boost conditions but then blow the seal on the IC under higher boost. This happens often when blow-by greases the junction. You're all like, "it looks sealed" and it's all like, "jk, lolz" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Never noticed this informative thread before but definitely helpful. I had always heard and read that the GS pulley, while weighing more than most, was better balanced to be lighter than stock but still maintain a nice idle for those of us running LWFW's. I'd like to replace mine this summer to beat an impending separation of the stocker.

Here's something simple: How about an intercooler/radiator fin comb that actually works. I'm thinking something that fits in between the fins (fin density obviously important) from one side and pushes through to straighten. Make sense? I have a vision in my head but I'm pretty poor with the design programs these days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I know people Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rack was $640 from Rick (underdog) Labor: free.99 Alignment: $40 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm aligned and driving on the new rack. I wanted to provide some basic observations. They will be completely subjective, unfortunately, until I figure some practical ways to take some measurable data. I'm open to suggestions. In the meantime, attached is a pic of the tie rod end. You can see there are still threads left. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee872204fc89500000030O00AauGzhs4cMWgPbz4U/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00401886868520150119172345209.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Turned out that when I actually got it back on the road, my steering wheel was off about 10 degrees left. It drove me nuts and I was concerned about the indexing, but it seemed to work out just fine as she drives straight and the wheel sits at 12 once again! Overall, the steering is noticeably tighter feeling than before. It's also very responsive. In my old rack, I had a small dead spot at 12 o'clock, I now get immediate response from the wheel when turned. I don't exactly trust my observations because I've already adjusted to the new rack; I can't really recall the complete feel of the old rack. Having said that, if you can suggest some practical ways to compare, I'd be very willing to hear them and provide any data possible. Just say the word...

Gex, how did the gates hoses fit? Are you running the Mishi fans too? I ended up trimming my stock upper hose so it wouldn't get nipped by the fans like Max said. I've been down that road twice before. I'm still cleaning antifreeze mineral deposits off my engine bay from the last time it blew a pinhole.