doobaruGT

I actually do think I have enough room for positive adjustment. I should have taken some pics. When we installed, we did so at near max positive to get an idea and the wheels were noticeably positive. There should be plenty of meat on the bone! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haven't had it aligned yet. A friend (wicknetzel) and I tried to get the toe as close as we could with a tape measure. It's close (within 1/16" )but pulls a bit. I've been facebooking with my subaru tech inside man to work out a date for alignment. I'll post up as soon as a do. I still have to run some figure-eights to work out all the air, but it's getting much better.

Whenever something breaks, my mantra is to replace it with something better in quality or performance or both whenever possible. You're likely still good at your mileage, though mine has been leaking for about 3-4 years which translates to about 45k. It just got to the point of no return and just in time since underdog was already chronicling the swap.

Old rack was changed at 175k. It was leaking pretty badly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First impressions are really nice! It feels noticeably more responsive. I'll wait until my alignment to give a more detailed review. To be honest, I was more concerned about executing my cam/crank seals and getting that back together. No CEL's...whew! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Welp...I went all in, but mostly because Underdog did such a great job with this thread. Hardest part was the u joint. There's not much room to work that pinch loose, but I managed. Here are a few pics from the festivities. The car is still on the lift as I did cam/crank/oil cooler seals and new WP with new gates kit. Just have to reset timing and get fluids in her tomorrow. Here's the rack about to enter the band saw for tie rod modification. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/8326af77d7122053997eb0c1a86a59a5.jpg It made a perfect cut, used the old jam nut to cut against. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/5fa38ba36207cb02aa738034733466a1.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/701753d874e9cb153ce4ecd058a2ee03.jpg On in you go... http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/10/d66f84cc396afee23e8a12a4e082b397.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I started the morning with my STi steering rack swap. Then I went to the oil cooler, then to the crank and cam seals. Got all the new seals in. I just have to torque those babies down tomorrow. I see how you have it set up with the vise grips. What's holding the belt beyond that? I have a cam tool, but that only works with two people and I think I'll be flying solo tomorrow. Actually, now that I think about it, I might be able to fit the cam wrench and have it against the frame for leverage.

Doing this swap on Saturday. I'll be posting video/pictures relating to the install to hopefully add to Underdog's already thorough notes. I may not post immediately as I'm doing the crank/cam/oil cooler seals and timing belt/WP at the same time.

Confidence restored!

"I see", said the blind man... Retightening makes total sense now. You're saying be extra careful to keep valves closed when tightening as not to cause interference. How were you able to reset timing. I looked at the FSM but I had little luck. When you re-install the cam sprocket, aren't the timing marks going to be awry? Or does the cam gear only sit one way on the shaft? Are you using the lobe to guess about where the cam timing marks should be in relation to the cam shaft?

I have done a few timing belts. I was concerned about removing all the cams. What you're saying makes sense though. Thanks for the guidance.

Hey CR, I'll be doing this in the coming weekends. I noticed someone already commented on how to realign the cams and position the valves. My question is, how do you know which way is closed? Certainly don't want to mess this up. Perhaps it's worth the money to have someone do it.

Turns out my rack failed inspection :-/ looks like I'm venturing down this path sooner than expected. It's both invigorating and slightly terrifying.

Perfect! Now I have a date to execute and a supplier

From where did you source the parts? I think I recall a link from the other thread for $500 on the rack alone.

I'm already planning my springtime replacement! Subscribed!

Just installed mine today, works flawlessly!

I've read through all of this and I'm grateful for everyone's input. My 05 is running well with the AVO380 and 21 psi. However, I'm also at 175k and I want to be prepared down the road. I'm leaning towards this setup eventually with lots of questions and gaps: EJ257 SB with CP or Weisco Pistons (are those 100mm bore?) Heads? Is there a better option than stock? Not sure about any valve work or rods or bearings. I would like the best of both worlds with hp capacity though my inference is that I can't necessarily have my cake and eat it, too. Perhaps a stock 257 would be wiser then?

If you can't loosen a belt, pop a return line, and turn a pulley, perhaps DIY mechanics is something to steer clear of...<- see what I did there? Ha! On a serious note, a video would be easy to follow, but the job really is straight forward. Any takers on the video? I just did mine or I would probably help out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Agreed, however, the DWS's were not "UHP" safe, IMO, at 3,500 mi let alone 35,000. I couldn't believe the difference since discontinuing the ExtremeProContacts. My wife and I love our Bridgestones though!

Yea you're right. It cleared up and drives like a champ again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

1. Currently running BS Potenza RE970 A/S 225/45/18 on 07 Spec B's 2. South central PA 3. Only using for DD, no track 4. About 80/20 City/Hwy 5. Formerly ran Continental DWS (and ContiExtremeProContacts before that) I strongly disliked the DWS, though, to be fair, I needed an alignment badly so that was likely a contributor. I got maybe 35K out of them before they were completely unsafe in the rain at all. They were unimpressive in anything but dry pavement and a nightmare in the snow. Before the DWS I ran the ContiExtremePro Contacts and had a blast in them! They were fantastic in all types of weather! When I switched to the BS RE970's it was a breath of fresh air and my confidence is restored in my AWD once again!

I changed out my PS pump yesterday and flushed my fluid. I must have air in the line though bc when I do my figure-8's, I lose my PS. It returns under mild turns. Is there an easy (or more involved) way to get the air out, or will the air eventually make it to the reservoir? I'm not losing any fluid since my last top off. I've read about bleeder systems and such but I'd rather not mess with it if it comes to that. I just don't have the time. Inspection is due this month and I still have to replace my leaking fuel elbow before I take it in again.

We asked Santa for the same thing but no dice (yet) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Joining the club today (God willing). Doing my best to comfort my bride in her minor contractions. Some meds took the edge off so she's more comfortable for now. Just mentally prepping for the real delivery now... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2