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Disgust

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  1. Ok, I got back the news and it's a little interesting. First, my turbo is shot. The guy at the shop said it spins fine by hand and no shaft play yada yada, but it wasn't getting any oil and now the journal bearing doesn't want to spin at high RPMs. The guy at the shop was super nice and didn't even charge me anything to take a look at it. He said he just took off the intercooler and had his co-worker give it gas and there was NO air coming out of the turbo. How and why I blew a new vf46: So this turbo is only 1800 miles old and went in to replace an old, whiny vf40. The reason it blew was like every other damn sudden subaru turbo failure OIL STARVATION. A month back, I got a strange code for my passenger side valve timing solenoid but at the time I was running dino oil and was getting a small hiccup about 5% of the time while accelerating, and thought nothing of it. Now, the shop tells me my oil feed line is leaking oil all over the turbo and the turbo is getting little to no oil. I don't think I caught this because I was working on the car at night and it hadn't been driving prior to me wrenching so I just thought nothing of it. Immediately, I understand my mistake. The valve timing code a month back was from a plug getting introduced into the turbo line and me not realizing and then continuing to drive on it. Then the plug moved up higher in the line until it finally got into the turbo and created enough back pressure to cause the high pressure line to leak and starve the turbo of oil. What have I gained from this experience? Don't be a dumbass if you have a CEL related to anything around the turbo oil feed line. If you think your turbo is blown, it probably is. If you refuse to think your turbo is blown, and then track down every leak in the turbo system, you will still have a blown turbo, but you won't have any boost leaks Don't be an idiot when checking the turbo: This thing spins at like 80k RPM so if it "spins" by hand, it may still have an issue spooling to normal RPM. OH yeah, and don't be an idiot.
  2. Ok, so my BCS tested fine and I am dropping my car off to be pressure or smoke tested on Monday evening, so until then this thread will be pretty dead. I will update results when I get them though. I really have my money on something to do with the bypass valve or a brittle vacuum line that burst somewhere, but we will see what the pressure test has to say.
  3. So I was thinking about an old 98 fozzy I had that was having some issues and I remember it was all MAF related. I think the smoke test will tell, but is there any way this could be a weird cause as I know the mpg and instant mpg sometimes go off either the MAF or o2. Oh yeah, and I pressurized just the TB side because I was already taking out the intercooler to look at the blue T and inspect everything else and didn't want to go through the trouble of pressurizing the turbo inlet. Could be very convincing that I did not pressure test the BCS at all with this test as I only did a visual inspection. Next place I'll test is definitely BCS
  4. So I did check the wastegate when I was checking the turbo, but I haven't checked the BCS yet. Wastegate seemed stiff, no movement and nothing super out of the ordinary. I did research on the BCS as this is the next system to track down in my vacuum diagram, but haven't figured out a sufficient way to test it yet so thanks for the advice. I'll test it using that method tonight or tomorrow morning and let you know. I have scheduled for a professional smoke test yet it is taking a very long time to get an appointment at the shop, so I'm trying to track it down on my own before hand. I'll research more about the err message too because it would pop up only while decelerating for a very long time, go away, and then was on the entire time.
  5. Sorry to be such a nuisance, but I’m feeling super defeated on this car. I am a CNC machinist (mechanical engineer) and work about 50 hours a week so I have been literally working on this thing in all of my free time that I’m not crushing brews. Oh yeah, I’ve also done all testing and repairs to this point with a broken pointer finger so it’s going much slower than normal haha. Anyways, onto the important stuff: Last night I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM assembly I got from my subaru dealer. I also made sure the blue T-Valve was connected and checked all my vacuum lines. I tested the car again thinking to myself “finally I can drive a real car again” and again I have the same issues with no boost. I am really, really wondering if this is a turbo assembly problem or if I just somehow haven’t found the vacuum leak. Because the root issue happened under full boost, I know I either g-naded a turbo or blew something vacuum/boost related. So let me confirm a few things before proceeding: 1: If I blew my turbo, I would have tons of shaft play on the exhaust side. 2: If I seized my turbo, I wouldn’t have been able to spin the turbine. 3: Nothing electrical affects boost pressure until around 5psi (aka, if this was electrical and not mechanical, I would still be getting some boost pressure so therefore it must still be a mechanical issue since I have zero boost) 4: If a single vacuum/boost line has a crack or leak, I will get no boost. (if true, I’m just going to go through with 15 ft of vacuum hose and replace it all) Thanks again for all that helped so far and especially doob
  6. Ok, I made a boost leak tester per Doobs post. I decided to test all the components independently with the boost leak tester. I removed the intercooler, plugged one hole with the boost leak tester and the other with a plug. I did not feed vacuum or boost pressure into the nipple on the BPV and left this to ambient pressure. The intercooler held pressure until about 5-6psi when the BPV opened. I researched and this is normal when the nipple is left open. I then connected the boost leak tester to the TB hose and pressurized the system. I heard gurgling and then a "whoosh" from the turbo cold side outlet. With all vacuum connections capped off for the turbo inlet, the only was for the turbo to make noise is if air is flowing through the exhaust, or somehow a lot of air was getting into the crank case. I then hunted down the PCV valve and removed it's boost/vacuum line connecting it to the intake manifold. When I plugged this line, I was able to hold pressure in the system. Held 10-15psi for about 8-10 seconds which seems reasonable to me. Oh yeah, also my PCV valve looks like this: http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff167/newpinesap/DE925458-B5CA-4D12-B349-FB36363B69F1_zpszhwk2hog.jpg DERRRRRRRRP
  7. I'm going to HD and AZ after work to construct the boost leak tester that doobaru recommended. Thanks for the recommendation and your help doob
  8. update from my side: Went out and pulled the downpipe to check the turbo. Turbo spins freely with zero shaft play. I found a vacuum leak from the boost solenoid and fixed that yesterday as well. I have a new BPV coming, and if that doesn't remedy the issue, it looks like I have no choice but to take it to someone who can do a boost leak test
  9. Ok, so excuse my noob-ism, but how will a loose vacuum line lead to no boost? I was under the impression that the vacuum system had a one way valve that actuated when intake pressures went to boost from vacuum and then would de-activate under no boost and vacuum again. Can someone throw me a quick explanation?
  10. Update from my side too: I just went out today, pulled the IC again. Replaced the O-ring from turbo to IC, BPV gasket (non existent to start with) and then I pulled off the rubber fittings that were blown from the TB and then torqued the hose down super hard. Drove it and again, no power. I have no idea if this is related at all, but before this issue started happening, I would drive the car and sometimes on the trip computer (the little thing that tells mpg, trip time, and distance to empty) would just say Err. Didn't say Err 46 or anything like that, just a plaid Err that would come and go.
  11. Turbo: You're also not getting any boost? I can't even get mine to come out of vacuum right now.
  12. Hey guys, I hate to pull up a dead thread, but I finally got some time off work to pull the IC to actually get in there and investigate. What I found was a lot of oil around the turbo to IC fitting and then when I pulled off the BPV, I found no gasket. Then I dig a bit further and pull off the TB to IC hose and found a bunch of torn rubber connectors. On all the subarus I've had, I've never seen these fittings. Questions for you guys: Should there be a gasket from IC to BPV? Does that ripped rubber fitting look like it could cause my massive lack of boost? http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff167/newpinesap/CCED26B7-C383-4519-A2EA-E9122B0A7DA3_zpsz8paqxv2.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff167/newpinesap/8F8B4C3C-8561-4E3B-92AE-BD21F6F7495E_zpsm0jdhiol.jpg http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff167/newpinesap/3F6F3F70-BE32-4D18-896E-F1101C67CF95_zps5mr5eowk.jpg
  13. Mike: I was under there for about an hour yesterday, but mainly was looking over the vacuum lines as I was under the impression that these cars had some sort of a fail safe where the wastegate is opened by default, but I was wrong. I'll poke around more tonight, but wanted more of a baseline of where to start looking and what's common for leakage on this model. Nightmare: Thanks for your reply, gives me a good place to start looking from. I've read some other threads on here where the driver had no boost pressure, no CEL and somehow the leak wasn't making any noise. For all: Does it sound like I blew the turbo with my current oil consumption? I bought this thing cause my hybrid rex still burns about a quart every 300 miles and I wanted something a little more DD worthy. But then again, all turboe'd subies burn some sort of oil haha
  14. Hey there. So I just picked up a new-to-me OBXT with about 150k on it, with new head gaskets, water pump, timing belt, vf46, banjo filters removed, and a gutted up pipe per my request. Now I may look like a noob, but I’ve owned around 8 subarus out of my two dozen cars and currently have a hybrid swapped bugeye wagon, lifted XJ, and a passat dad wagon. So here’s my issue: Yesterday, I drop off my buddy at his house, set the navigation for HF tools (had to pick up some spring compressors for my new LGT suspension) and drive the 2-3 miles with no issues. I hop back in the car, after going in the store, turn her on and everything is fine. She’s started and running fine and about .5 miles after she’s going again (coolant still warm) I boosted onto the highway (about 3.5-4.5k rpm.) Somewhere on the highway between about 4th and 5th gear I started noticing a huge lack of power. It felt like an NA again. So I search all over the forums and everyone is saying “you have a blown turbo” or “replace your banjo bolts” but this turbo is so new I don’t think anything could have happened to it. It goes on… This morning, I open up the hood before I go to work, and checked the dipstick: It’s just barely on the damn dipstick, so I throw in a half quart I had in the back of the car and get it to the low mark. I limp it about .5 miles to the auto parts store and pick up some Rotella t6 (oil I always run in these turbos) and get the oil level good again. Keep in mind, I’ve only had the car for 1700 miles and have only had to top it off with a half quart of oil in the first 1500 miles, so this is a drastic increase in oil consumption. At this point I realize that something serious is probably wrong with the car, so I turn on torque pro, pick up the trusty Passat, and check for non-appearing CEL’s and other gauge readouts: NO CELs, and BOOST NEVER WENT ABOVE VACUUM as it topped off at -0.8psi. I feel like I either have a major boost leak, a vacuum leak that’s got my wastegate fully open, or maybe I blew a hose off of the TMIC? The 05+ subaru turbos are a very new breed to me and I don’t know all of the common issues yet, but hopefully this is just something simple, but I am really leaning towards somehow I blew the G-effing-dang turbo which I seem to always do on my subies. Thanks for any input, and I’ll be around these forums a lot more to come.
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