silverton

There is a large financial risk if your experimental spark plug fails and grenades the motor, especially in a boosted application. 2-3% (on my ez36) gains giving the benefit of the doubt of 6hp and 8ftlbs of torque aren't worth it in my book. Current ignition systems are so overly powerful that any kind of capacitance isn't necessary and adds a fail point. But by all means though, report back after you've run them for 30,000 miles. I am curious what you learn.

That looks good!

snake oil. buy NGK or Denso.

alldata calls for 8 hours to replace clutch and flywheel, but as these cars get older and depending on what part of the country you live in, it can and will be more.

If you absolutely need one the junkyard is the best bet. Otherwise just let it ride, or secure it with a zip tie. Enough heat cycles and years they just break no matter what you do.

It's rubber so probably.

Service manual only has one diag step for P0244.... "Any other codes displayed?" Yes: Inspect the relevant DTC. No: Replace the wastegate solenoid control valve. In this case I would solve your cylinder misfires before doing anything with P0244, unless it's obviously unplugged. Did you disconnect and forget to reconnect/tighten any engine grounds? If you have a massive air leak, like a torn turbo inlet that could cause it though. It's very easy to 'lip' the turbo inlet upon reinstallation depending on how you went about the process, you may have to R&R the turbo again and ensure you have the turbo inlet set properly. You might be able to get away with taking the hex bolt out that holds it to the intake manifold and finagling it around. But also, at 200k miles if you still have the OE inlet, it's likely time for a replacement.

cam and/or crank sensors potentially

pretty sure it's just two bolts and an electrical plug, vs four bolts, an electrical plug and two coolant connections

Maybe it wasn't your throttle body that was dying and it was actually your accelerator pedal?

If you've done a combustion test on the coolant and it's clean, I doubt it's head gaskets. Cylinder pressure is far higher than cooling system pressure so if they were bad, you would see it in your test. Your coolant reservoir should be somewhere between mid-full when at operating temperature due to fluid expansion from heat. I don't think it's water pump failure unless you can see coolant weeping from the bottom of it or it's making abnormal noises, the impeller is connected directly to the pulley. I'm still suspect of the thermostat or the radiator cap.

Immobilizer reprogramming comes up very rarely, I only had to do it once in my year at this independent shop. I know an SSM3 or 4 can do it, a generic scan tool probably not. If you get one of the more expensive Autel units I'm sure that could do it. I'm pretty sure you need a dealer provided code to get into the reprogramming portion of this particular models immobilizer. A dealer should be able to provide you the code, if needed, for $20 or so via email; they will need some sort of proof that it is your vehicle. @m sprank I was fired Thursday from my indi Subie shop because of a seized/rusted bolt that broke in a 2011 Legacy's subframe while doing control arm/steering rack replacement, honestly their loss as I'm basically a Subaru encyclopedia. The subframe is on backorder But that's okay, I had a job two days later with a $15 pay raise, but it's a Euro shop that's expanding to Japanese makes. The Subie's will start to come in but my world has been turned upside down with the Mercedes....Audi...BMW's.... fuck those cars are put together wheird.

With you being able to take the radiator cap off after 5 minutes of 'cool down' there's no way there is pressure building in the system. Even just running a car a couple minutes there is generally a small amount of pressure built up already and you make a small mess when removing the radiator cap.

If you were having combustion chamber pressure entering the coolant system you would have geysers coming out of the funnel, not just bubbles. triple digit psi's build up in the combustion chamber So yeah, I would say at this point the system is bled of air to the point you can road test, if a road test still over heats I would begin suspecting the radiator and/or the radiator cap.

It doesn't matter where the HVAC settings are as far as hot/cold, just have the fan off. By design the heater core is part of the cooling system flow, so by having air flow over the heater core it takes longer for the overall temp to rise. The driver side blend door actuator can be seen to the right of the throttle pedal, I believe you can see the passenger side blend door actuator by taking the glovebox out. Once you have eyes on them change the interior temperature and see if they move. They're 'easy' to replace, just in cramped quarters so that amplifies difficulty. Pay attention when you remove the actuator and ensure the new one lines up with the actuator tracks in the HVAC box; there are two to three arms you need to line up. It is normal to have the coolant rise a bit as the fluid expands with heat, but if it's gets high enough it starts to overflow that's a problem. From the information you've provided, I would say the system does not have air bubbles and there is a failure somewhere else if you're still having overheating problems. It may either be lack of cooling efficiency of the radiator, or the radiator cap itself has failed; the radiator cap allows the system to pressurize and cool effectively without boiling. Edit: I did just notice you said the lower hose is cold at operating temp. One thing I've learned is; just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. It likely could be a stuck closed thermostat. Did you use an OE thermostat? I have had good luck with Murray brand thermostats.

If the coolant is rising in the bucket it generally means there is still an air bubble, or a blockage. I recommend leaving interior heat off as it will make the process take longer. A tip to help prevent air pockets from forming is to slowly pour the coolant in through the bleeder funnel, basically act as though you're pouring directly in to the radiator neck, otherwise the weight of the coolant will keep air bubbles inside. And only fill the funnel up to the where the vertical wall starts. It can take anywhere from 30-60 minutes at idle for the fans to kick on, once they kick on you should see temps drop many degrees with your scanner before turning off. If the fans stay on and temps continue to rise there is still an air pocket or a blockage. When you replaced your thermostat did you install it with the jiggle pin at the top? If it's upside down air wont bleed properly. Your interior temperature discrepancy side to side would be one of the HVAC blend doors; which is a relatively common issue.

Edit: LMAO. m sprank was replying to OP, not me. LOL I wasn't driving when mine went, but I do have dashcam footage of it with audio. My buddy who was driving, just cruising with traffic on 405, is very inclined to automotive things and he didn't notice anything weird until it just starts cutting out. it's a long'ish video I never bothered cropping, if you're interested in watching I'll work on that.

You got lucky! Same thing happened to me on a 251 and bent all 16

According to the Normal Service Table: Fluid - CVT Inspect CVT fluid. When the vehicle is frequently operated under severe driving conditions, CVT fluid replacement (if applicable) should be performed every 24,855 miles (40,000 km). The only note for examples of severe driving conditions for the CVT is repeated towing, otherwise it's only ever Inspected.

Nothing is jumping out at me from the parts diagrams of the interior. Could be a vibration dampener that's glued to another component.

That's a head scratcher. Is the installer still around? It's likely something wrong with the alarm brain; sending the signal to unlock the doors but not disabling the alarm.

Is it specific to one door, or is the trouble symptom with all of the doors?

I have a 32-bit laptop running the unofficial windows xp sp4 in a drawer from tuning my impreza with an emanage ultimate. You may have some luck at a local PC/electronics recycle place, we have RE*PC here in the Seattle area, I paid less than $200 for it. I blew up 8 engines in only a few years. a few lasted days, some lasted weeks, i got a month out of a couple, the last one went over a year...even being stolen and them driving the piss out of it, it survived for some time afterwards too. I never went full throttle under like 3,000rpm...those jackholes were building 10psi at 1800-2000 after seeing the logs that's when I learnt it could do 0-60 in less than 5 seconds and had quite a bit of fun with it. I miss that car but it was very expensive

If you're dead set on replacing the stuff, it can't be tight if it's liquid. I have long handle wrenches, or double up two box ends for extra leverage. Be sure to have replacement parts on hand as you could damage them beyond repair, especially if you go the sawzall route.

Odd mod for a non-turbo car. really digging the variety of clamps.