ohno06gt

Finally finished up the koni/h&r install. A 3 foot pipe on a breaker bar ended up doing the trick, snapped this 1/2 inch extension like a twig though.

Yes I tried tightening first but these suspension bolts are still fighting me. Yesterday I soaked everything in acetone/atf and still have 2 that won't budge. I put the wrench on and tried to break free with the jack, started raising the whole car off the jack stands. 450 ft. Lb impact isn't touching them. I have some aero-kroil getting here today so hopefully that helps me out.

Got hung up today on ther koni/h&r install. Lower bolt through the knuckle wouldn't break loose on passenger side. Pb blasted it, torched it, hammered it with the impact countless times and it wouldn't budge. Thinking about mixing up some atf and acetone.

The only place around that has lifetime alignment is Firestone and you can only bring your car in every 6 months/6k miles. I'll try calling a few places today and see if they'll work with me. Might try to pull a string alignment, drive it for 100 miles and bring it in.

Getting ready to install koni's with h&r springs so I started pb blasting all the nuts and bolts. I was wondering if I should let the suspension settle before taking it for alignment? A buddy said to drive at least 100 miles but I don't want to shred the tires.

I'm buying a set of koni's that were never installed. After sending payment the seller sent me this photo, said they were stored in the basement and exposed to moisture. Not concerned with the slight surface rust but is the different lengths something to worry about?

Do you know if this would fit with a process west tmic?

Do you guys put sealant on the spark plug seals? I've seen some people say it's necessary and others say it's not.

Thanks for the chart. Parts should be here mid week so I can knock this out. Going to keep reading as much as possible and watch some videos on it. Hopefully I get it leak free on the first shot. I can't stand oil leaks, smells terrible and the spots on my driveway make me insane.

Thanks man. It definitely looks tight in there so will probably end up raising it. Still trying to figure out which sealant to use. Between ultra black, ultra grey and right stuff. Everyone seems to have different opinions on which is best suited for the job.

Sorry for bringing back such an old thread but I'm going to tackle this project once the parts arrive. Passenger side is leaking onto my up pipe causing some smoke. Still debating if I'm going to jack up the motor or not. Does the pitch stop have to be disconnected to do so? Also where is the safest place to raise the motor from?

The oil pressure light has never came on. Just an unsettling clatter for 2 seconds maximum. I'll try to get a video of it soon.

I live in CT. Only time I notice it is when it sits for 8-9 hours or more. Running rotella 5w40. I've thought about dropping the pan to reseal because there is a slight leak (not enough to ever hit the ground). Where is the best place to jack the motor up to get the back bolts off the pan?

Would oil pressure affect the tensioner? It was replaced 11k miles ago. Hopefully it isn't bad already.

So I took the screen out of the driver's side banjo bolt, it was pretty clean just a small amount of specks. Also removed the ocv's and nuked them with brake clean. Still does the clatter for 1-2 seconds. Any other ideas? I'll keep priming oil pressure before cold starts until I figure it out.

I'll have to take a look at the ocv's. I removed the banjo bolt filter from the back of the passenger head when I upgraded the turbo. Not sure of the location on the others, I'll have to do some digging. All timing components were replaced about 11k miles ago so hopefully it's not the tensioner. Would priming the oil pressure have any effect on the tensioner?

Engine has around 70k on it now. The last Blackstone used oil analysis came back perfect. Happens every morning if I don't prime oil pressure with the flood clearing. No clatter on hot starts at all, only first start of the day.

Yea that is what the flood clearing is. Using Rotella t6 5w40 with a Tokyo roki rx8 filter. Oil was changed 400 miles ago. It also made the noise with the blue oem Subaru filter.

I get a light clatter on cold starts that last for 1-2 seconds max. If I use flood clearing and let the engine turn over a few times then start, it doesn't make the noise. After searching around some people say it's normal and not to worry about it. Could it be a sign low oil pressure? I plan on installing a gauge in the next few weeks to monitor it.

Really like the format but for some reason the search engine isn't working correctly for me.

Does the ecu report oil pressure?

Did an oil change yesterday. Anytime the car is on jack stands my neighbor (wrx owner) comes over to check things out. He looked at the Rotella t6 and mazda oil filter in disbelief. Told me I was going to blow the motor and he would be surprised if it lasted 1k miles with that oil/filter. Told him I'd been running that combination for a year now with no issues and used oil analysis have came back perfect. Says he runs mobil 1 and gets whatever the cheapest filter is from oreillys. Oil looked great though, I always run it through a fine mesh screen while draining and there wasn't a speck of anything.

Not sure but I think you need rotors from an 04 sti and an adapter for the rears.

Got a big whiff of oil burning after a drive today. Went poking around and realized the banjo bolt on the rear passenger head is leaking. I removed the screen and replaced washers about 4k miles ago. Is it possible to snug up that bolt without removing turbo? Not sure if there is access from the bottom, going to check it out tomorrow.

The previous owner removed the undertray but after reading this thread I may try to find one. Anything I can do to decrease temps and improve efficiency will be a plus.