ohno06gt

Thanks man that was the issue. Tightened the arm one full turn and saw an improvement so tightened it another full turn and it's almost gone. Hasn't over boosted but keeping an eye on it. Right now it's tolerable but may go another half turn to see if it completely stops it.

It's a td04hla-19t (jdm twinscroll) built by hcfi. Maxes out around 19.5 psi. I'll have to dig around for info on tightening it but seems pretty straightforward. I always suspected it was the wastegate.

Still haven't been able to figure out this rattling sound. It seems very rpm dependent and stops when in boost above 2 psi or so. Almost seems like the frequency of the rattle coincides with the pulsing the ebcs makes at higher boost.

CV axles seem good, they were replaced 7-8k ago with ones from raxles and don't have any play. Pretty sure the wheel bearings are ok. When grabbed from 3 and 9 o'clock/ 12 and 6 o'clock there is no wobble. It seems more rpm dependent than speed. If there was a crack in the header or up pipe would it still build boost fine? I saw no soot around any exhaust flanges or gaskets but not sure about under the heat shields.

My 2006 Legacy gt has developed a weird sound. When the car is under load around 2-3k it makes a metallic rattle, almost like a spitting sound, it's hard to describe. Can't hear it unless the windows are down and I'm driving next to a wall or other cars. All the heat shields are tight and I don't see anything making contact where it shouldn't. It doesn't make the sound when revved in park/neutral or when it's torque stalled. Car still seems to run and drive fine and makes plenty of boost. I get no feedback knock or fine learned knock at all. All fluids are pristine and at their proper levels. A used oil analysis was done 500 miles ago and came back perfect. I was leaning towards a cracked header or up pipe but would think it would struggle to make boost. I'm thinking about taking all the heat shields off for a more thorough inspection but the bolts are pretty seized up. Anyone have ideas or a direction to head in? I tried my best to capture it on video this morning, the sound starts about 1/3 into the clip. https://youtube.com/shorts/VfkVTZXwiUU?feature=share

My buddy drives a wrx and was saying with Subarus you can get an estimate of whp by using the maf g/s reading. He stated on his car it was close to 1:1. Does this hold true for our cars?

I covered mine with duct tape last spring and it's starting to fail. It's very apparent with the windows down and leaves me stinking like exhaust. I grabbed some rubberized asphalt flashing tape. Hopefully that does the trick.

Took the car out for a spirited drive today and it was night and day. Really increased confidence in the twisty sections. Wondering about the whiteline front sway bar, I'm thinking it will bring back some of the understeer. I might install it on the softer setting and see how it goes. Really kicking myself for not replacing the clamps on the turbo oil return. It's got a slight leak and getting a proper hose clamp on there looks next to impossible.

I went with the avo rear sway bar brackets. Rest of the suspension is oem for now. I'll be going with koni/h&r or fortune 500 coilovers in the next month or 2. Also will do the kta 124 set and roll center/ bump steer kit.

Installed whiteline rear sway bar and some moog endlinks. Car feels so much better, it's amazing what tightening up the rear end did for the wagon. Debating if I'm going to install the front bar or not.

Mike Kinsman worked some magic with my last tune. Feels alot smoother than my tune from another big name tuner. Would love to get it on a dyno soon to see what she's making. Installed some avo rear sway brackets, went pretty easy Torque wrench maxed at 110 lbs so I took it to that and then gave a few extra ugga duggas . Looking forward to getting the whiteline sways installed once they get delivered. Did spark plugs and oil last week so waiting for the Blackstone report to come in.

Pretty sure the front diff went out in my 06. Started with a clunking noise while cruising. Initially thought inner cv joint. Now there is a nasty grinding noise with foot on the brake at a stop. Sound like front diff to you guys? Will a 5eat from an 05 be compatible with the 06?

Still available?

I wonder how long they will continue to make the ra short blocks.

No access to a lift and I'm using free ssm which doesn't walk through the steps as far as I can tell. Could have sworn I saw a different relearn procedure but can't seem to find it now.

Does anyone know the proper relearning procedure for 5eat? I cleared memory 2 with a vag com using freessm. I recall someone saying to shift through the gears in manual mode at around 12% throttle but at what rpm? Also how long should it take to relearn? Car shifts fine when under a decent load but low load it's still clunking into gears.

Thanks man. I was thinking about steering rack bushings, so far the feel is still nice, not sloppy and no play but definitely something I've been considering. I did fsb bushings along with new aluminum control arms last year. Will add the inner tie rods to the list. It's tough to get fully acquainted with the suspension without climbing under the car, it's too cold lately. Just want to try and get everything done in one shot to avoid multiple alignments.

My wagon has over 140k, the stock suspension is tired so planning on doing a little refresh/upgrade this spring. Have a shock leaking and some of the bushings are looking rough. It's a dd with frequent spirited driving. I'd like the car to feel more planted and reduce some understeer and body roll. Would like to retain somewhat of a decent ride quality, the roads in Ct are pretty bad. I'm thinking of going with konis and lowering springs. Rode in a few cars with coilovers (bc, fortune 500, gecko) and the ride quality was brutal. Here is the parts list I've came up with so far. koni Yellows H&R Springs KYB tophats cusco rear sway bar avo rear sway reinforcement bracket endlinks kta124 rca kit kco313 bump steer kit group n motor mounts rallitek 5eat mount bushing whiteline W63397 + W63396 for upper rear arm whiteline KDT927 rear diff bushings. Would prefer milder drop than the H&R's but not seeing much on the market. Is the kco313 necessary with the drop obtained from H&R's? Not sure which endlinks I'm going to use, had moogs installed up front 8k miles ago and they seem to be holding great. Going to poke around under the car in the next few days and see what else I can come up with. If you see anything I missed or any "while you're in there" type things please chime in. Any input will be appreciated.

Yea I can't break the nut loose on the pulley. I highly doubt the shop did the cam seals. They did a bunch of work on the car and as I've become more knowledgeable I have noticed how many corners they cut. There were brand new parts I dropped off that never got installed, stuff missing from out of my car and things just hacked together. I'm sure they wouldn't accept fault. I've yet to get reimbursed for the brand new boost controller I dropped off, had to purchase another one to get the car in the dyno back in June. Also they installed a different timing kit than I dropped off, didn't realize that until I pulled the drivers side cover to check it out. Shop was recommended by the local Ct Subaru Facebook group but after the fiasco I don't even know if I'd bring the car back there.

Did a weekly check on my 06 Legacy gt today and was blessed with another visit from the fluid fairy. Motor oil leaking from the bottom of the center timing cover. I'm guessing it's possibly the oil pump/seal. Not leaking enough to hit the ground but clearly needs to be addressed. Was going to take a peak behind the cover today but the crank pulley is a pain. Anyone have tips on how to get it loose? It's a 5eat. Is there anything else in that area that commonly leaks? I'd prefer to have the parts ready when I tear it apart. Also I read that the timing belt should be replaced due to coming in contact with oil. Sucks because it was just done 7k miles ago. Would it be ok to just replace the belt or is a whole new timing kit required? Any input/tips will be appreciated.

Looking like it is the MAF sensor. Switched it out and the afr readings are acting accordingly so far. Peg the throttle and it's dropping into the 11's.

Yea I'm not even driving the car right now, just took it out for some logs. I did a low pressure boost test (blocking intake hose and blowing into bpv vac line) and it held pressure but thinking about making a leak tester with pvc and a shraeder valve to up the pressure.

Yesterday I did a few data logs on a base map for my tuner. Sent them off but haven't heard back yet. Today after work I learned how to look at them and the car was going very lean when in boost. At idle the AFR is jumpy as well, getting down into the 13's and up into the high 15's. The car was building boost fine so I don't think there is a leak there. 02 sensor is denso and was replaced 5k miles ago. Also cleaned the MAF but the problem persists. I checked all the clamps from turbo to throttle body and they all seem tight. Downpipe to turbo connection and up pipe are tight. Also checked all the vacuum lines that I know about. Fuel pump is aem 320lph and injectors are DW 740cc. Anyone have ideas? I'm not super knowledgeable when it comes to this stuff. Here are the logs if anyone wants to take a look. Cruising around 60mph https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1cNSpg9tZ1LairVq2gLXyLdGGpdxM4wDtNYJgRh3MDMQ/edit#gid=28542170 WOT 3rd gear (So lean it's terrifying) https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/e/2PACX-1vRtAgcj2yg9W14S0OEDyHRAhjaBXUpTa0eNq1UJp04b-kkb88btIWCHu-sVVmdaoNWMjtrnmVoP8jjH/pubhtml

Yea no codes so far, it's an OEM thermostat. After driving it seems to be opening and closing normally just a little cooler than I expected.