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05 16g. Thoughts?


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Just wanted to post what i have and see what other on here think. Any feedback is appreciated.

 

http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q700/gork138/dynopost_zps8dc38c5d.jpg

 

 

Car: 2005 LGT base

Transmission: 5speed

Target Boost: Not sure, I have seen AP boost reading at 20psi

Target AFR: No clue.

SAE Correction factor:?

Fuel: 93 pump gas

Engine/Power Modifications: BNR 16g, catless up, Cobb highflow catted down, Magnaflow cat back, Perrin turbo inlet, K&N air filter. GFB BOV. Cobb AP V2.

Driveline Modifications: Stock. (At the the time of this dyno the clutch was the original stock 90 some K. It was slipping after the tune. True reading?)

Suspension Modifications: None.

Other Modifications: Heavier rims. (Maybe 2-3lbs per rim)

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Well it's just a guess due to the lack of info. What gear was this done in?

 

It would be good to see the boost on the plot. It would seem like your boost was coming up very slowly since you should be hitting max torque earlier in the power band.

 

At this point I don't think I could get any of that info. I guess this is kind of a vague question but what normally would cause a condition like this?

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Well, did you have the car tuned or just dynoed? Your tuner will be able to explain their boost control strategy.

 

The reason I asked about your wastegate plumbing and boost control solenoid is that 1) the BNR16G comes with a larger wastegate nipple, so some re-plumbing is necessary and there is an opportunity for a mistake; and 2) the way your torque is so low and late makes it look like you have bypassed the boost control solenoid ("BCS") completely and the wastegate is creeping open.

 

You could also have a post-turbo boost leak. If so then you need to be very careful and get re-tuned immediately after fixing it.

 

How does the car feel?

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Well, did you have the car tuned or just dynoed? Your tuner will be able to explain their boost control strategy.

 

The reason I asked about your wastegate plumbing and boost control solenoid is that 1) the BNR16G comes with a larger wastegate nipple, so some re-plumbing is necessary and there is an opportunity for a mistake; and 2) the way your torque is so low and late makes it look like you have bypassed the boost control solenoid ("BCS") completely and the wastegate is creeping open.

 

You could also have a post-turbo boost leak. If so then you need to be very careful and get re-tuned immediately after fixing it.

 

How does the car feel?

 

:spin:

 

I took it there to get tuned. They told me they tune there cars to be "safe" (Not over stressing the motor)

 

What does the re-plumbing include? just a larger hose? I just used the stock stuff when i hooked everything back up.

 

The car drives and runs great. Was a little concerned as too why the spooling took so long becuase alot of people on here do say the 16g is qucik.

 

Looks like ill have to give the shop a call and see if they have any ideas.:confused:

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I use a PCV elbow to a reducing tee. The PCV elbow goes on the wastegate barb and to the large side of the tee. I cut the stock line that attaches to the boost pressure signal barb (on the output of the compressor) a bit short, but make sure to leave the "pill" section intact. Then I attach that line and the line that runs under the manifold to the BCS to the small ends of the tee.

 

It's possible that BNR has changed the wastegate barb size to resolve this. I am getting one in today for a customer build and will take a look.

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  • 1 month later...
Well, did you have the car tuned or just dynoed? Your tuner will be able to explain their boost control strategy.

 

The reason I asked about your wastegate plumbing and boost control solenoid is that 1) the BNR16G comes with a larger wastegate nipple, so some re-plumbing is necessary and there is an opportunity for a mistake; and 2) the way your torque is so low and late makes it look like you have bypassed the boost control solenoid ("BCS") completely and the wastegate is creeping open.

 

You could also have a post-turbo boost leak. If so then you need to be very careful and get re-tuned immediately after fixing it.

 

How does the car feel?

 

How do you re-plumb with the larger nipple? Does the line have to be a certain diameter and length? I've been searching and I can't find anything on it. Thanks in advance!

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  • 3 months later...
  • 5 months later...

I still have not resolved this. After doing a lot of reading and fooling around with the car and accessport, I'm thinking I have a combination of a bad tune and needing re plumbed. I know everything on the plumbing is hooked up just like the stock set up was same hoses, everything. I also know that when doing a pull, my accessport will read around 20psi max. Also in weather 45ish degrees and under in WOT it will almost always over boost and I get the fuel cut off and p0244 waste gate range code.

 

I'm defiantly not an expert on this sort of thing so I'm thinking I will just have to pay some money out and have a good shop get this right. :(

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The peak power or boost isn't any issue. It is that your turbo is spooling very late. You should be reaching peak torque around 3500 RPM's where your car looks to be around 5K.

 

If you can't figure it out it is best to bring it to a local tuner who can review your wastegate setup and look at your tune.

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The peak power or boost isn't any issue. It is that your turbo is spooling very late. You should be reaching peak torque around 3500 RPM's where your car looks to be around 5K.

If you can't figure it out it is best to bring it to a local tuner who can review your wastegate setup and look at your tune.

Yeah, I'm going to do a little more looking into it. I get the feeling I'm going to have to get it re tuned though. Not a whole lot of options here in NE ohio so I might be making a little road trip somewhere.

What boost controller are you using? I had this issue with the grimmspeed 3 port electric one and had to swap in a manual boost controller to fix the issue.

The stock one. I was thinking about changing things around and trying to "fix" the issue, but (this is my not knowing about how the ECU programing works at all with this system) wont if I modify the existing system that will throw off the current mapping? I have downloaded access tuner and tried to open the map that the shop made but it is locked. (I also e-mailed, called, showed up at the shop many times over the past year for any kind of help but have gotten nothing. I am very disappointed and feel like I waisted a lot of money on taking it there) So I can't really do anything with the current map or make my own since I have no idea where to really begin. I'll probably just end up taking it somewhere. Car is still fun to drive though even in its current state. Thanks for this insight. I will try a few things before handing the keys over and hopefully its something easy and inexpensive.

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