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MAP sensor?

 

Is the restrictor pill the right size? Not having looked at the logs, I'm thinking there's something up with the vacuum lines on the turbo.

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MAP sensor?

 

What about it?

 

Is the restrictor pill the right size? Not having looked at the logs, I'm thinking there's something up with the vacuum lines on the turbo.

 

No restrictor pill, as I am running the GS 3-port EBCS.

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Stock or aftermarket MAP sensor? The stock one should be able to handle 20psi, but it might be acting up. I know it's a relatively common issue at higher boost pressures.

 

And my bad on the restrictor pill thought. I haven't done an EBCS, so I wasn't sure what lines went where.

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Stock or aftermarket MAP sensor? The stock one should be able to handle 20psi, but it might be acting up. I know it's a relatively common issue at higher boost pressures.

 

Stock MAP. How would I tell if it's acting up, besides trying a different one?

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Um, as a general rule, boost will go down if you switch from a Grimmspeed 3-port to the stock BCS. And a leak wouldn't make any sense, considering boost was at 20psi, then 10psi, then 20psi, and then 10psi again.

Also, I don't have an FMIC.

 

I thought you said boost was 20psi, only when cold, then 10 when warm... and ultimately it stayed at 10 at any condition. A leak could have happened if something was expanding when warm, and then finally stayed open at some point. If you put in the stock BCS and still did not reach full boost, then that would indicate that the BCS is not the issue. Easiest way to rule that out for sure is to borrow/buy a new 3-port. If you still can't go full boost when using a new 3-port, I am not sure what else would be the problem besides a leak. But, that's just my view from the surface - I am no expert and it could very well be another issue, that I cannot think of.

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Fulton: it's gotta be something new since you were boosting fine before. What does that leave you with...?

 

  • A leak
  • Faulty GS EBCS
  • Something wrong with the turbo
  • Something wrong with the tune

Anything else new?

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Not currently in stock :(

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Fulton: it's gotta be something new since you were boosting fine before. What does that leave you with...?

 

  • A leak
  • Faulty GS EBCS
  • Something wrong with the turbo
  • Something wrong with the tune

Anything else new?

 

Not really. I am becoming convinced that the problem is the EBCS.

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Not really. I am becoming convinced that the problem is the EBCS.

 

Well, it may prove to just be easiest to buy another used one, test it, and then sell it back on the market--but like I said mine is working fine (on my base map) and is available if you feel like coming down this way.

 

That or swap back to stock BCS and load the cobb stage 2 tune and see what happens...? Obviously don't floor it, but I imagine it would be ok to test what boost level you can see, right?

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That or swap back to stock BCS and load the cobb stage 2 tune and see what happens...? Obviously don't floor it, but I imagine it would be ok to test what boost level you can see, right?

 

I had my Infamous tune on there before I went down to TurboXS. I could boost fine past 10psi, although I only tried it briefly one or two times. The only changes since then have been some lines that I ziptied, and the EBCS.

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I had my Infamous tune on there before I went down to TurboXS. I could boost fine past 10psi, although I only tried it briefly one or two times. The only changes since then have been some lines that I ziptied, and the EBCS.

 

And then you got a new tune as well, right? That's why I included that as a possible culprit. Not likely since it was running fine for a while it seemed...

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That or swap back to stock BCS and load the cobb stage 2 tune and see what happens...? Obviously don't floor it, but I imagine it would be ok to test what boost level you can see, right?

 

Quoted because loading my old Stage 2 tune back on was indeed the fix to the problem, even with the GS EBCS still on the car. But BMB knows that already, because I drove down to his house to try out his GS EBCS to see if mine was bad. :lol:

 

It was the tune all along. :spin:

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Quoted because loading my old Stage 2 tune back on was indeed the fix to the problem, even with the GS EBCS still on the car. But BMB knows that already, because I drove down to his house to try out his GS EBCS to see if mine was bad. :lol:

 

It was the tune all along. :spin:

 

Tune problems from TXS are rare indeed. Did you call Jermaine?

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I'm curious what was wrong with the tune. I know that there is a wastegate corrections table for the ambient air temp that can give you low boost in warmer weather. It has to be adjusted when going to the EBCS, but isn't obvious until it gets warmer out.
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I'm curious what was wrong with the tune. I know that there is a wastegate corrections table for the ambient air temp that can give you low boost in warmer weather. It has to be adjusted when going to the EBCS, but isn't obvious until it gets warmer out.

 

It hasn't really been any warmer than when I got tuned.

 

BTW, he replied back this morning. He wants me to send him a log of a 3rd gear pull to 4500 rpm so he can examine it to see what he needs to change in the tune.

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While the WGDC IAT comps can end in lower boost at warmer ambient temps, that's now how they are set up as stock. They normally reduce WGDC at low ambient temps so that you don't overboost in cold weather, when air is cool and dense.

I have had cars come up short of boost target on colder days if I didn't flatten the table out some to factor in a 3-port.

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Waste gate actuator?

 

I just don't think that is the problem. If so, WGDC would be 90%. As I said to you when I was down there, I don't think there is a feedback system to say how far the WG is open, so if WGDC reads as 50%, that's actually what the tune is asking for.

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Stock BPV. I just don't think that's the problem, though. It's slow to build boost from 0-10psi, too.

 

Do you have anyone you can borrow a BPV from? I was having issues with mine that I didn't even recognize until I got a new one. People say these BPV's are strong enough to hold boost, but I think that it's more of a case-by-case deal. Swapping it out for a turbosmart kompact may be cheap peace of mind.

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Its likely due to overheating. Once you reach a predetermined temp. the boost controller will shut down and your wastegate will operate on mechanical control (the psi rating of the spring). I bet if you unplug your battery for 1 min. Then blast one down the street, you will be back up to our overbearing 20psi.

 

Boost controllers bleed off air pressure acting on the wastegate until you reach the tunner's desired air pressure. ie if you want 20 psi the wastegate will open at 10psi + the 10 psi that the boost controller has expelled to control the wastegate actuator. In other words, you are operating at mechanical boost and your boost controller has shut down.

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