Only hitting 10psi

[thefultonhow]

Its likely due to overheating. Once you reach a predetermined temp. the boost controller will shut down and your wastegate will operate on mechanical control (the psi rating of the spring). I bet if you unplug your battery for 1 min. Then blast one down the street, you will be back up to our overbearing 20psi.

 

Boost controllers bleed off air pressure acting on the wastegate until you reach the tunner's desired air pressure. ie if you want 20 psi the wastegate will open at 10psi + the 10 psi that the boost controller has expelled to control the wastegate actuator. In other words, you are operating at mechanical boost and your boost controller has shut down.

 

Even if you were right that overheating would cause loss of boost (which I don't think you are), how would that apply to this situation, given the following:

 

1. The low-boost condition occurs when the car is totally cold

2. When I load my old tune on, I can instantly hit 17.5psi (the max boost for my old tune)

3. The new tunes I have been sent are working better (more on this in a sec)

4. The temperature gauge is in the exact middle, indicating that I am not overheating?

 

Does not compute.

 

For the others following the thread, I got a new tune last night and did a little testing on my short drive to work today. I am up to 18-19psi and 80% WGDC. I think I still have a slight UP leak, so I'm guessing the boost will go back up to 20psi once I fix that.

[Nolmers06LGT]

Even if you were right that overheating would cause loss of boost (which I don't think you are), how would that apply to this situation, given the following:

 

1. The low-boost condition occurs when the car is totally cold

2. When I load my old tune on, I can instantly hit 17.5psi (the max boost for my old tune)

3. The new tunes I have been sent are working better (more on this in a sec)

4. The temperature gauge is in the exact middle, indicating that I am not overheating?

 

Does not compute.

 

For the others following the thread, I got a new tune last night and did a little testing on my short drive to work today. I am up to 18-19psi and 80% WGDC. I think I still have a slight UP leak, so I'm guessing the boost will go back up to 20psi once I fix that.

 

Interesting. Glad you're making progress though. Do you have any idea what adjustments he made to the tune?

[thefultonhow]

Interesting. Glad you're making progress though. Do you have any idea what adjustments he made to the tune?

 

He did not say.

[mtlonergan]

Humour me. Next time you loose boost. Unplug your battery for 30 seconds and try again. Your boost controller will be reset and I bet your boost will come back.

 

I've been done that road. OR when you change maps, it resets your boost controller.

[thefultonhow]

Humour me. Next time you loose boost. Unplug your battery for 30 seconds and try again. Your boost controller will be reset and I bet your boost will come back.

 

I've been done that road. OR when you change maps, it resets your boost controller.

 

If by "boost controller" you mean "ECU," then yes, changing maps or unplugging the battery resets it. And I have changed maps multiple times during this process. And my boost is (mostly) fine now that my tuner has sent me new maps.

[iNVAR]

Humour me. Next time you loose boost. Unplug your battery for 30 seconds and try again. Your boost controller will be reset and I bet your boost will come back.

 

I've been done that road. OR when you change maps, it resets your boost controller.

 

To anyone who reads this: don't follow this advice.

When you loose boost, and it's the result of the IAM/DAM being dropped by the ECU, there's usually a reason for it: KNOCK. Find out why it happened, don't just reset the ECU.

[thefultonhow]

To anyone who reads this: don't follow this advice.

When you loose boost, and it's the result of the IAM/DAM being dropped by the ECU, there's usually a reason for it: KNOCK. Find out why it happened, don't just reset the ECU.

 

Thanks for the post. I completely didn't realize that he was talking about going to wastegate boost due to IAM of 0. And yes, if that happens, you need to figure out why, not just reset your ECU every couple of days.

 

In my case, my IAM has been at 1 this whole time, so this is not applicable.

[iNVAR]

Its likely due to overheating. Once you reach a predetermined temp. the boost controller will shut down and your wastegate will operate on mechanical control (the psi rating of the spring). I bet if you unplug your battery for 1 min. Then blast one down the street, you will be back up to our overbearing 20psi.

 

Boost controllers bleed off air pressure acting on the wastegate until you reach the tunner's desired air pressure. ie if you want 20 psi the wastegate will open at 10psi + the 10 psi that the boost controller has expelled to control the wastegate actuator. In other words, you are operating at mechanical boost and your boost controller has shut down.

First part is incorrect. "Overheating" of what precisely? What sensor? What compensation table compensates for this? Look, you're trying to be helpful, but you seem to be doling out advice that's only half-correct and not good advice in general.

 

Someone who's boost level is being limited to WG pressure needs to find out what the problem is because if the ECU goes into limp mode, there's a reason, and it's usually KNOCK. Resetting the ECU just bypasses the safeties and exposes your engine to more danger.

[JmP6889928]

Didn't read the entire post but have you checked the turbo inlet hose where the BPV comes in? I had a leak there and i was causing low boost and it was a bastage to find-couldn't hear it or see it. Check that joint and see if it's leaking.

[thefultonhow]

Problem seems to be solved with the latest tune. Still takes a little longer to spool than I would like, but at least I am now hitting 20psi.