Engine Problems

[Sludgeroo]

This looks waaaaaaay different than my vacuum setup.

 

Hope this works for ya pal.

[Kennyfvholla]

zues, you have open vac lines and the timing is off. no wonder it runs crappy.

 

 

the open nipple on the intake should be sealed.

 

 

the open nipple on the brown connects to the open nipple on the black, on the under side.

 

 

adjust the timing.

 

 

do these and then let us know.

 

I completely agree.

 

This looks waaaaaaay different than my vacuum setup.

 

That's because there are few different designs for the EGR system over the entire Second Gen run. The biggest differences lye somewhere in the MY98 for both the EJ222 and the EJ25D. Mostly they are similar though.

[Zues Marine]

adjusted the vacuum lines and now i get a high idle for a bit then after i drive it for a sec it evens out to the 500-700 range

 

everything seems fine until i start getting to normal temp, then the headers and cats start getting hot and smoking

 

drives fine, no codes, oil is good (so not the HGs), overflow tank is empty, i added a gallon from completely empty but... is it going to be plugged cats or timing or??

[Zues Marine]

or could it be the 7month old gas not burning right?

[Kennyfvholla]

Try running the motor without the exhaust hooked up. It'll help you narrow it down a bit more.

 

With old gas it probably wouldn't run this rough. I've seen cars with year old plus gas run just fine.

 

And I think your timing is still off if you never altered it between posting those pictures and now.... If the double has mark lines don't match up on both side the of the motor (one side WILL be slightly off no matter what). From the looks of it, it's a bit off.

[snederhiser]

Hello;

From what I see the purge control solenoid is hooked up wrong. This is run to ported vacuum as shown in the diagram. Plug the two connections. Your timing looks to be off by one tooth, Steven.

[pleaidestar]

Once the upstream cat gets superheated like that id onto they will be working properly, the elements that are in them are going to be different now, from a metallurgical point anyway. My friends cat got like that from a piece of sparkplug exiting the valves into the cat. I told him the same thing that kenny said, take everything from the e/m back off the vehicle and reset your computer. His car works great after he bought the cats and reassembled the exhaust system.

[Zues Marine]

aside from the timing thing, ive gotten pretty far, ive put about 50-60 miles on it yesterday with no overheating and it seems to be running decent aside from the fact it idles really low at lights, no smoking cats after i put some fresh gas in, no CEL

 

imma take it to a shop here tomorrow to have them tidy it all up, any guesses as to how much adjusting the timing would run me? im over doing it myself at this point

[Kennyfvholla]

I'd just do it yourself. I wouldn't waste the money. They have to pull the belt off and replaced it to make the adjustments to the camshaft position. So, logic points towards full replacement labor without the cost of any parts.

[Zues Marine]

....am i going to need to pull my motor again? drain the coolant and all that shit.... or can i drive around for awhile while my patience and funds replenish,without the motor blowing up

[Kennyfvholla]

Driving around with the timing off is a bad idea. If it happens to jump any more you will destroy your valves.

 

You don't need to pull the motor at all.. You really don't even need to pull the radiator if you have the patience and take your time.

 

Unbolt the fans and overflow reservoir from the radiator. Tap crank the motor with a breaker bar placed on the ground to crack off the crank pulley bolt (unplug the coil pack so there is no risk of the engine starting), pull off the belts and crank/ac belt tensioner, and then you can easily pull off the front plastic covers.

 

Take the crank pulley bolt and tighten it back in (without re-installing the pulley itself), this way you can turn the motor up until everything is lined up. You'll want to line up the double has marks on the passenger side of the motor since the drivers side is off.

 

The following picture is exactly what everything should look like with the timing correct. Also, make sure the crank timing gear is in the correct position, using white out to mark the correct meeting locations of the gears and belt will help, and always start at the pulley and work counter clockwise. Since you'll have marks on the passenger side cam gears and where belt lines up on them, when you reinstall line them up and then put the belt on the crank gear and then continue on from the passenger side exhaust gear. You'll also have to pull the tensioner. Do you have the one or two-piece setup?

 

http://i1056.photobucket.com/albums/t375/Kennyfvholla/SubaruTimingBelt1_zpscde388f5.jpg

[DOHCEJ22E1]

When I set the timing, I slide the belt off idler 3 & align the cam gears on the right first (they are the only pair spring loaded when the marks are all together). Then I rotate the lower left exhaust cam gear slightly (a tooth) to the right because it will align with the upper intake cam gear once you put the belt back on the idler 3 pulley. You have to be careful that the right exhaust cam gear doesn't spring out of time, so be VERY cautious & gentle with it. Once the marks are aligned perfectly, I put bolt the tensioner on, check the marks about 4-5x, then pull the pin.

 

Of course, this is my method of doing it. I never count all the teeth on the timing belt or anything like that because I never learned how to set the timing the way you're supposed to as per the manual. I taught myself how to do it & I get it on the 1st to 2nd try whenever I do a 25D timing belt job. I remember technical information by actually doing the work & being involved. Also, I can quickly undo the timing & reset it using the method I've learned.

 

Looks weird reading, I know.

[Zues Marine]

^^Nice, I'm going to adjust the timing, but maybe not for a week or two because i just fixed an exhaust leak at the EGR (new gasket) and it is running fine.. no more lumpy idle, after the initial start up rpm jump to 2500k..weird...

 

i did throw a P0335 code (Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) cleared it and we'll see if it comes back

 

i bought a new battery this morning, a couple starts later i drive to walmart, come out and it wont turn, as if my terminals are loose, i had to get jumped... all grounds are good but is this timing related?

[Zues Marine]

maybe the code may have been thrown on the first startup after fixing the egr because the ECU learned to cope for the leak, and then it wasn't there?

[DOHCEJ22E1]

^^Nice, I'm going to adjust the timing, but maybe not for a week or two because i just fixed an exhaust leak at the EGR (new gasket) and it is running fine.. no more lumpy idle, after the initial start up rpm jump to 2500k..weird...

 

i did throw a P0335 code (Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction) cleared it and we'll see if it comes back

 

i bought a new battery this morning, a couple starts later i drive to walmart, come out and it wont turn, as if my terminals are loose, i had to get jumped... all grounds are good but is this timing related?

 

The initial jump to 2500rpm indicates that the ECU has been reset & is cleared of the memory that was previously stored on it. Be careful. If the timing is physically off, the lopey idle will return & your engine will still not run right.

 

Is there any crud on the crankshaft sensor or the crank gear reluctor teeth? If so, remove it to allow the sensor to read 100%.

 

The battery has nothing to do with the timing. You have either a loose terminal, a bad connection, or an accessory causing the drain on the battery.