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White smoke out of the exhaust is peculiar but I'm more concerned about that loud ticking sound.

Head gaskets can be changed as many times as you want but if coolant got into the bearings & damaged the material, then there is no saving that whatsoever.

 

That engine needs to be taken apart & have it's heads preserved for the next block that you get. That 25D block has had it. As for the white smoke, if the block is damaged internally in any way, then coolant will get into the chambers.

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the ticking sound is an exhaust leak, im missing a header/head bolt on each side

 

 

the smoke is coming from the glowing, red-hot cats, im pretty sure its nothing coolant-wise any more, its not smoking out the exhaust much, looks to be what ends up passing the plugged(?) cats

 

beside the jumpy idle when its sitting, the car seemed to drive fine around the block, no CELs, no jumping rpms..

 

thought it may be because im running the ej25 injectors with the ej22 harness but they both flow at 280cc so that doesnt seem it, and theyre seated properly

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i have an exhaust leak, im missing a header/head bolt and the smoke is coming from the glowing cats, im pretty sure its nothing coolant wise any more

 

Gotcha.

Why are your cats getting so hot?

Over pressurized from the engine? That's the only reason I could think of.

What year is the 25D?

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'98, i think its burning unused fuel, or its plugged from my last engine failing somehow

 

the only thing im wary of is the plug wires i used were'nt NGK ones but im not throwing any misfire codes??

 

I guess we'll have to narrow a few things down to the basics.

Air.

Fuel.

Spark.

You know that you're getting air so that's out.

If you're not burning your fuel all the way, have you checked the spark plugs?

They might be new but looking at them will help you "see" what's going on in the chambers.

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here they are, that was probably the fastest ive ever pulled plugs, i only took out the battery

 

Cylinder 1:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130502_174246_497.jpg

Cylinder 2:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130502_173901_429.jpg

Cylinder 3:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130502_174906_190.jpg

Cylinder 4:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130502_175248_456.jpg

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2 & 3 look like look like they've been run VERY hot with all of that white.

Those cylinders are running extremely lean & the 4th cylinder seems like it's burning a little lean as well.

 

I think your fuel injectors, fuel filter, or both need replacement.

How is the fuel pressure regulator? Is there anything off with it?

There is obviously nothing wrong with the compression & the numbers would be only slightly off if you checked.

 

Also, keep in mind that the 22E ECU will run the 25D a lean due to that ECU having the 22E fuel trim in memory. Even if it was reset, it would still run that engine a little lean due to it's programming.

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ill replace the fuel filter, it couldnt hurt since i dont remember the last time i did..

 

as for the fpr, i've never checked that, would would i be looking for, i know where it is but what symptoms or whatever am i looking for?

 

i may just run some injector cleaner through the system because i'm about to strip the screws for the injectors on both of my IMs

 

if the ECU runs it lean, how are the cylinders firing so damn hot and how does that translate to the cats over-heating?

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borrowed from myhonestmechanic.com in response to:

 

Why does my catalytic converter glow red hot??

 

 

 

Hey there

Usually when the converter gets red hot like that it is because the engine is running too rich…too much unburned fuel and the converter is working its heart out to clean up the exhaust. What causes a rich condition:

1. Too much fuel pressure like from a bad fuel pressure regulator (sometimes the excess fuel fills up the crankcase as well…pull the oil dipstick and smell it)

2. Running bad, worn out spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap and rotor

3. Vacuum leak under the hood – check all rubber vacuum lines and connections

4. Ignition timing out of control – bad ignition module

bad oxygen sensor

5. Restriction in the exhaust system – converter or muffler is stopped up with carbon

and from yahoo answers:

 

Best Answer - Chosen by Asker

 

It's NOT clogged (yet) and it's not "doing it's job." A cat normally gets very hot when in use, but NOT GLOWING hot.

 

Something is causing raw unburned fuel to be sent down the exhaust pipe where the cat "burns" this fuel. The cat is designed to burn the tiny amount of unburned fuel that comes from a normal engine. Now, if you pour excessive hydrocarbons (fuel) in the exhaust, the cat will burn that too and since it's burning too much fuel it glows red hot. This won't last very long, this is very damaging to the cat. The catalyst can get hot enough to melt. And that won't take long! And when it melts, then you will have a blob of molten metal blocking the exhaust pipe (now it's clogged!) and the engine will stop operating. At that point, the only fix is replacement of the catalytic converter.

 

However, if you find and fix the problem now you can avoid that expense. You have to find why raw fuel is going through the engine. The most common reason would be a bad spark plug or bad spark plug wire. If the spark doesn't work, there is no "combustion" in that cylinder and the raw unburned fuel goes out the exhaust pipe.

 

A spark plug can be replaced for 0.97 cents, but if you wait till the cat melts, well those can cost $100's or more to replace.

 

Other problems could be a bad carburetor mixture, bad computer causing overly rich mixture, clogged fuel injectors, even bad /burnt valves and/or rings but heck lets not think about that.

 

But get an expert to look at it NOW and don't drive it any more till it's fixed, or that cat will melt and then you'll be in deep do do.

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i really wish the car would throw a CEL so i can narrow this down,in the thread i've got going on LC BBS, he's leaning toward the injectors... which are different part numbers, but technically flow the same at 280cc
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Hold times and Pulse rates could be different if the injectors came out of an auto...I tried using some gray injectors from a 98 5 speed in my auto equipped legacy and it ran like absolute crap like it had a hive vacuum leak..no power and backfiring.
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Those screw are a handful of garbage, I took all the ones from the fpr of two motors so I could use the 8mm socket to remove them...or go to the hardware store and get those screws, the regular phillips screws seem like they are made of Styrofoam. I was in my backyard last year in 105 degree weather losing my mind when the all stripped on me..
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Hold times and Pulse rates could be different if the injectors came out of an auto.

 

 

I kept the 25D injectors in the 25D manifold for the heads for the 25D ECU but the 22E ECU WILL run 25D injectors. Just replace your injectors with better units & see how they work out. Your injectors really might be crap & poorly functional. I know when I installed a 25D ECU to run my 22E, it ran much more aggressively & smoother.

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the wiring in the 95 is different and since they didnt have a 2.5 option that year, im pretty such set on that ECU til/if i ever sti swap and do it all

 

i'm really leaning toward the cat being plugged, i'm starting to realize that I think it failed when i blew the last motor, causing the valves to superheat and lock the 2.2 up tight

 

i say that because my EGR was smoking like crazy leading me to believe there's nowhere for the exhaust to go, but i could be reaching out of desperation

 

i think imma replace the fuel filter and go open headers to see if it runs any better, maybe run some injector cleaner through the tank

 

i'm about to just scrap the car and jump off a cliff

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Pleaidestar might be onto something there with the injectors....

 

Once I swapped out my 98 LGT's original motor with it's 98 Forester EJ25D replacement I was chasing a vacuum leak. It ran smooth to a point, but there were misfires and backfires and a very noticeable lack of power. My car was a 5MT and the motor came from a 4EAT car.

 

 

Swap in the original injectors, see if it works

 

Take the exhaust off, see if it works

 

Certainly double check the timing

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How are these lines supposed to be hooked up?

 

hood sticker:

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130508_180807_220.jpg

 

 

the red is how it is hooked up now, looks like the dotted line runs to the injectors on the other side on the 2.5 unlike to the canister like the 2.2

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/f94449fd-a9a8-4706-994b-aabc01e635b2.jpg

 

more pics of how it is now

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130508_164602_808.jpg

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130508_164627_714.jpg

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For the timing the colored hash marks should be at 12oclock, with the arrows at 2 o'clock, the crank gear hash mark at 12oclock as well..same look as the 22e but with two extra cams of course. I think your timing is a little advanced the double lines should be together your intake valves may be closing too soon.

 

The two empty vacuum nipples go together, the nipple from the pressure switch to the metal nipple. I believe, that's the same way mine is minus the egr tube.

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zues, you have open vac lines and the timing is off. no wonder it runs crappy.

 

 

the open nipple on the intake should be sealed.

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130508_164602_808.jpg

 

 

the open nipple on the brown connects to the open nipple on the black, on the under side.

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/IMG_20130508_164627_714.jpg

 

adjust the timing.

 

do these and then let us know.

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