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Strut/Spring Compressors


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I have a professional shop and we use the clam shell otc. I have not liked it since the first day I got it. I should have waited and got the brannick. Had one in a previous shop and it worked great, mounted on the wall, didn't feel like I was going die using it and didn't have to crawl around on the ground either.
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Okay, got to use it for the first time a couple days ago... definitely not as easy as I had hoped/imagined it would be, but much easier than with the suicide sticks since I didn't have to wrestle with the things on the bench and had much more leverage with the 3-bar handle. As you can see in the picture below, this was done on a set of KWv2 coilovers for one of my customers. Here's what I found:

 

Front coilovers - The main spring is too short to compress sufficiently just using the jaws directly on the springs, so the bridge assembly (on top of the box in the top left of the pic below) needs to be used across the upper mount. This means you need to get the upper perch, mount, and spacer on far enough to get the nut started. This isn't too difficult because the helper spring is easily compressed by hand. Otherwise, the overhang on the jaws is still a bit more than ideal for the coil diameter on these units, so while the jaw can close enough to secure the coil, it just touching the coilover body enough to prevent the coil from completely seating in the jaws. This won't be a problem on regular strut/spring combos.

 

Rear coilovers - The main spring is much longer, which means the bridge assembly is not needed to compress the spring enough for load-free assembly. All you need to do is make sure the upper mount is oriented correctly relative to the lower shock mount point and torque it down. Again, the jaws overhang the spring just enough to prevent them from fully seating, although the jaws are still locked around the spring. I think OTC did a really good job with the jaw design, making it as slim as possible, but the coil diameter and the shock body OD are just so close together on these units.

 

While it was initially more cumbersome than I had hoped, by the last unit I had it figured out. The next job is stock springs on KYBs, so I'll report back after I do those.

 

Prior to use I greased up the lead screw, threaded jaw adjusters, slides, and pivots with SuperLube. As you can see in the pic, I used a Craftsman "Max Axess" pass-thru socket and a 1/4" drive ratchet to tighten everything down.

 

http://imageshack.us/a/img339/2543/otcste.jpg

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