Turkeylord Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Order the line from http://www.infamousperformance.net. When you use their kit, you'll be blocking off the stock supply line and you won't need to worry about the banjo bolt filter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted September 17, 2013 I Donated Share Posted September 17, 2013 Order the line from http://www.infamousperformance.net. When you use their kit, you'll be blocking off the stock supply line and you won't need to worry about the banjo bolt filter. Yes, you will. The banjo bolt filter serves both the turbo oil line and the AVCS oil line, and the IP&T line (like all other aftermarket turbo Subaru lines) comes off the AVCS line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 Oops, didn't know that... I thought it was just for the turbo feed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 so since I already took out the one banjo bolt filtre I'm safe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted September 17, 2013 Share Posted September 17, 2013 ^^ IIRC.... There's one in/on the turbo, one on the back of the block on the passenger side, and then theres one more behind the timing cover on the driver side on the front of the block. Basically any banjo bolt that has a raised tit on the head. (right?) Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turkeylord Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 You will hear stories of "I am holding 22psi" but... You need to ask yourself about the validity of this claim and the source. Are they actually verifying the BPV? Or are they seeing that they make 22psi max boost. Because making 22psi max boost does not mean the BPV is holding. It means your turbo might be capable of overcoming the leak. We have seen this many, many, many times before. Customer is unaware that they are actually working the turbo harder to overcome the leak. If going over stage2, I recommend a BPV. Does not have to be fancy. But something intended to hold the pressure (not the cheapo, plastic, made to hold 14psi OEM one).said much better than I said it. Thanks!qftI noticed that with the OEM BPV, and all conditions being equal, I could only manage 17.4 psi boost, 294.0 maf g/s, wgdc @ 46.27%. Alright, you guys got to me... GFB Respons valve came up on Nasioc and I grabbed it. Hopefully it will help keep boost up through shifts too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 I personally like the Respons. It definitely feels different from the stock under boost and shift points are crisper with improved return to boost on-throttle. Since I'm 100% recirc, the blow-off sound isn't much different to my ear. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted September 24, 2013 Share Posted September 24, 2013 (edited) WOO-HOO!!! http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20130923_174542_zpsf230c9e4.jpg http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/boost_zps706e2340.jpg Edited September 24, 2013 by TheBlackPearl Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planelazy Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 I'm ordering my 18G on Friday.. won't be able to install it until November though =( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imblaze89 Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Hey guys quik question.. I looked at the bnr turbos and noticed the 18g is only 25 bucks more than the 16. Why wouldn't you just get the bigger one? Is it just more supporting mods needed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SurlyOldManMN Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 Different goals. More bigger is not always what people want. If your goal is a dyno queen, then yeah, it makes no sense not to get the bigger for $25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 10, 2013 I Donated Share Posted October 10, 2013 Hey guys quik question.. I looked at the bnr turbos and noticed the 18g is only 25 bucks more than the 16. Why wouldn't you just get the bigger one? Is it just more supporting mods needed? 16G can be run with stock fueling without losing much on the top end, and has less lag. If you get the 18G and run it with stock fueling, you basically have a 16G with more lag that will probably make slightly less peak power. And fueling is another $500+. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planelazy Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 I'm wanting 300whp on pump gas without maxing out a turbo and without the lag of a 20G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KuntryQuestTSi Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I'm wanting 300whp on pump gas without maxing out a turbo and without the lag of a 20G. I made 370 on @ 18g for perspective Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk now Free Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I'm wanting 300whp on pump gas without maxing out a turbo and without the lag of a 20G. What's your total mod list? 18g pretty much means a new clutch very soon. I've got about every supporting mod w/ 650cc injectors running 93oct on a bnr16g. My stock clutch won't hold if I really push it. But I've gotten another 30k+out of the stock clutch. I have a clutch masters ready to go in when I get around to it. Are you getting dyno tuned? "making" XXX hp is kind of subjective. Different dynos, etc. I've been happy with the power level I have now. To give you an idea, imagine having the Stage 2 'drivability' of third gear while your in 4th. If your happy at ~290whp then the goal of reaching 300whp is just that, an arbitrary goal. I've never dyno'd my car, and at this point I probably won't. People ask what power I'm making and just tell them it's probably 280-300whp. A guy that builds a tunes mustangs drove my car and he thought I was underestimating. There are not too many LGT's around here, so anyone who rides or drives my car is usually surprised/impressed. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I have posted in the bnr walkthrough and wanted to post here as well for visibility. Sorry. So I went to install my BNR evo16g. Started by swapping oil drain tube (hard line on CHRA) Then went to put on the coolant line (double banjo hardline) and it doesnt fit. I have cut the "bridge" off in between the banjo fittings and now I can get both coolant banjo bolts in, but the support/anchor points don't line up to the mounting ponts in the compressor housing. What the hell? I had a vf40. Do I need to use the coolant lines from a vf46 or what? Any tips or insight would be greatly appreciated, I'm stuck now :-( Thanks in advance. Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
planelazy Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 It's an arbitrary goal. I'll be happy with 290, or even more if I go over 300. Here's my mods waiting to be installed: DW65c DW 850cc Invidia catless up (already installed) CNT catted down (already installed) GS ECBS GFB BPV RacerX FMIC NGK 1 step colder plugs SPTv2 CBE Cobb intake w/airbox That's pretty much it. 300 was just a random number I picked... since that seems to be about a good number on a stock block. I also have a 5eat, and I'm having HexMods's VB and his 1st gen diff bushings installed next month. What's your total mod list? 18g pretty much means a new clutch very soon. I've got about every supporting mod w/ 650cc injectors running 93oct on a bnr16g. My stock clutch won't hold if I really push it. But I've gotten another 30k+out of the stock clutch. I have a clutch masters ready to go in when I get around to it. Are you getting dyno tuned? "making" XXX hp is kind of subjective. Different dynos, etc. I've been happy with the power level I have now. To give you an idea, imagine having the Stage 2 'drivability' of third gear while your in 4th. If your happy at ~290whp then the goal of reaching 300whp is just that, an arbitrary goal. I've never dyno'd my car, and at this point I probably won't. People ask what power I'm making and just tell them it's probably 280-300whp. A guy that builds a tunes mustangs drove my car and he thought I was underestimating. There are not too many LGT's around here, so anyone who rides or drives my car is usually surprised/impressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 I have posted in the bnr walkthrough and wanted to post here as well for visibility. Sorry. So I went to install my BNR evo16g. Started by swapping oil drain tube (hard line on CHRA) Then went to put on the coolant line (double banjo hardline) and it doesnt fit. I have cut the "bridge" off in between the banjo fittings and now I can get both coolant banjo bolts in, but the support/anchor points don't line up to the mounting ponts in the compressor housing. What the hell? I had a vf40. Do I need to use the coolant lines from a vf46 or what? Any tips or insight would be greatly appreciated, I'm stuck now :-( Thanks in advance. Dont worry about "anchoring" the coolant pipes. As long as the banjo bolt seals it will hold the lines in place just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 Thanks Mike! Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 13, 2013 Share Posted October 13, 2013 No problem. Most aftermarket turbos provide no provision for mounting the coolant lines other than the banjo bolt. The mount tabs are more of an OEM "thing". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 (edited) http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20131013_181918_zps3cf1799f.jpg Progress! Hope to install EBCS and TMIC after work today. Edited October 19, 2013 by TheBlackPearl Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 I have had issues with TMIC fitment on all new BNR turbo housings we have installed. Bryan@BNR Any comment or assistance you can provide? My mechanic/installer is having a heck of a time getting the TMIC mated up with my brand new AVO TMIC and BNR 16G Turbo with the newer BNR Turbo housing. Thanks Loosen the v band, tighten the intercooler then tighten up the v band. The vf40 compressor housings are not pinned so it is hard to perfectly set the compressor housings. I don't know why they aren't! In your guys' experience, were they ever this far off? And I'm just supposed to/able to loosen the V-band and rotate the compressor housing until it lnes up? And the CHRA will stay aligned to the housings and all that? http://i476.photobucket.com/albums/rr126/mikabuc/20131019_112546_zps9ee8470f.jpg Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 (edited) I can't get the compressor housing to rotate in/on the hot side for the life of me. I busted a knuckle and almost pooped my pants trying to. Thinking I need to take this turbo back out to clock it correctly. I hope somebody tells me I'm wrong. Any one have some insight on this? I've scoured the threads and only found the above. My situation does not look I need to "slightly rotate the housing". Mine is like 10º and an inch off. Bolting up the IC and getting an O2 bung welded into my DP are the only things uoldng me up now. My LC-1 will be here Monday so I can start logging. Edit: Got it finally. I had to wrestle the hell out of the TMIC and reposition the TB hose but it's all back together. It's definitely not in the same spot as when I took it off though as I had to redrill to driver side bracket to get the IC to bolt up. Eh well, whatever. Edited October 19, 2013 by TheBlackPearl Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 I have yet to rotate a BNR housing. Many housings have a pin between the CHRA and housing. In order to rotate them you must grind down the pin. I have a write up on this (using an FP 68HTA) in my vendor forum area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted October 20, 2013 Share Posted October 20, 2013 (edited) More or less I wanted to get my findings posted here so that it may help others in the future. There were a couple things that even thru my exhaustive research I didn't come across in a thread and found out in the process. I've been to the auto parts store way too many times for small parts these past couple weeks :-) Going to pressurize the system tomorrow and check for boost leaks, weld in that bung and then wait for my base map from Cryo to arrive then it's play time! I'm so flippin excited you guys, it's been 2 months and 2 days since she's been down! I still can't get over how nice the filtered oil line kit is Mike :-) Edited October 20, 2013 by TheBlackPearl Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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