mele63 Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Last time I tried to rotate my tires in my driveway I gave up after realizing some numbskull at the local garage torqued the suckers to about a trillion lbs. with an air wrech. Now, I want to remove my new LGT's wheels and clean and polish/seal/wax the the inner rims and paint the callipers (semi-gloss black; no rice flames please). What, other than an air wrench do you recommend? A 1/2" ratchet with a breaker bar and good deep well socket? A four-way lug wrench? ( I assume the lug wrench that comes with the car is a P.O.S.). If I use common sense in the pattern and such, do I need to bother with a torque wrench? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
03wagon Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I have always just used a four way lug wrench and never had a problem. You don't HAVE to use a torque wrench, but I always do, better safe than sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inthedeck Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 And you can always rent a torque wrench from auto-zone. They take 'collateral' for it (i.e. charge your credit card) but once you bring it back, they refund the money, including tax. Can't beat that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 time to get to the gym and get those arms bigger..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nKoan Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I don't use a 4-way lug wrench, just a breaker bar, a torque wrench, an electirc drill (or impact air gun if its available), the necessary sockets and an aluminum floor jack. As for torquing the wheels down, I always do it. I don't want to overtorque or undertorque the nuts. Overtorque is obviously preferable of the two, but it can wear out your wheel studs. A good torque wrench is a bit expensive, but I think its worth it. If for nothing else, for peace of mind. One interesting thing, though, is that I've heard you can use the wrench that comes with your spare tire kit to torque your wheels down safely. Its length, and material is supposedly designed so that if you pull as hard as you can, you will get a pretty close to the recomended torque. You won't overtorque the nuts and they certainly won't be undertorqued. Don't know if its true or not, and I prefer to use a torque wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
melayout Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Also, cvertorque can also misalign the rotor relative to the caliper and hello rotor warp. I keed I keeed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legasee Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I got a "decent" torque wrench from Pepboys for about $15.00....adjustable in 1lb incriments up to like 100 lbs or something...definitely should look into it In Taiwan now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdw Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 I use an air wrench for removal and installation. I don't torque them down all the way with the air wrench though. Final torque is set with a click stop torque wrench (the Husky ones at HD are ok for the $). I also have an 18" breaker bar just in case. I don't like the 4 way lug wrenches at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 1/2" ratchet, a 6" extension, a thin wall socket for the lugs, and a 4' long 2" dia. iron pipe. That'll untorque ANYTHING (unless you are weak). You can literally walk it off. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red beast Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 i keep a torque wrench, 6" extension, and a socket in the trunk. i don't need no stinkin' warped rotors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 maybe this also has to do with the types of lugs you use? I have McGard SplineDrive's which have a rotating seat. I have never had an issue breaking lugs with my folding t-wrench which I keep in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewster Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 maybe this also has to do with the types of lugs you use? I have McGard SplineDrive's which have a rotating seat. I have never had an issue breaking lugs with my folding t-wrench which I keep in the car.what's a folding t-wrench? I may need to get one of those. I'm using the spline drives as well and it's a non-metric socket for the key so you're pretty much SOL if you aren't carrying the correct socket when you get a flat. I think the stock oem lugs are 17mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 http://www.autobarn.net/ral90796.html http://store1.yimg.com/I/rodi_1853_70192022 I carry it since the stock lug wrench doesn't fit the cylinder for the spline drives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drewster Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 hey that is cool and not expensive at all. This is in the description: The wrench displays both SAE and Metric measurements. WTF does that mean All 4 sides are different sizes and there's a socket that will work for the oem lugs and the spline drives? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 it means two sides are metric and two are SAE (both stock and the McGard key are covered). I keep one of those folding wrenches in each car, as we have SplineDrives on both. You also need to keep stock lugs for the spare if you want to use it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdw Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I think you're better off going to Sears and buying a breaker bar and sockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 If your going to be working on your car. like pdw said go to sears and buy a set of tools and a 1/2 drive torque wrench. If your going to save money by doing things yourself, do it right and buy good tools. Don't skimp on the important things. To break the nuts lose you may need to slide a 24" piece of pipe of the 1/2 ratchet or breaker bar. I torque the lug nuts to 108ftlbs I have found that much less then 100ft the lugs will lossen up. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 24" 1/2 breaker bar. Never had any trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I torque the lug nuts to 108ftlbs I have found that much less then 100ft the lugs will lossen up. Just for reference purposes, the factory torque spec is 81.1 ft.lb. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earthworm Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I bought one of these off of ebay for a ridiculously low price... They are basically the same ones you can buy at Sears Hardware but just a no-name brand... Works great! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4393946963&category=71297&rd=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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