FLlegacy Posted November 29, 2015 Share Posted November 29, 2015 Oil on the MAF sensor wire is known to cause issues with driveability and or a cel. Certain codes can cause a limp mode and the Christmas tree dash light show. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar9080 Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 I have a 2011 2.5i Premium, at about 148k I let the dealer do their 150k service, which includes a CAT fluid drain and refill. 12k later, I randomly begin to get a feeling of a hard upshift from like 2nd to 3rd like you'd feel on a malfunctioning conventional AT, and it's always between 20-30mph. Dealer stunned and clueless. "Master Technician" even experienced it and threw up his hands. Now I get the Christmas tree show and AT OIL TEMP flash. Pulled codes P0700 and P2763. Transmission jerk between 20-30 is gone, seems to idle and rev a little higher, and fuel economy is Tribeca-like. Any ideas, suggestions, words of encouragement? Car has just over 160k on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted July 28, 2016 Share Posted July 28, 2016 Sounds like it could be the torque converter not locking up- check out this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oil-temp-and-brake-lights-flashing-and-vdc-light-solid-253627.html Locking up hard would give you a jerking feeling like you're describing, and not locking up at all will definitely hurt your mileage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mustangr2 Posted July 29, 2016 Share Posted July 29, 2016 had this happen to mine like 3 days ago. they did some software update and cleared it. I believe was something to with some vac pressure or something. i will look at the receipt and try to post up some details. it was covered no charge for it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choi0706 Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 any update? I'm about to order the new redesigned torque converter and tackle this myself. it doesnt appear to be hard, but does anyone have the special tool to hold the torque converter from coming off with the engine? part# 498277200 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar9080 Posted July 30, 2016 Share Posted July 30, 2016 No updates on my end, I took it to the dealer a couple weeks ago and they flashed the ECU and did something else software related, and now the light show Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar9080 Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 I haven't been back to the dealer yet, been driving the Silverado. I put a fuse in an empty space that was labeled for AT, which seems to have made the AT OIL TEMP stop flashing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
change_agent Posted August 1, 2016 Share Posted August 1, 2016 Same issue on my 08 Legacy wagon. Right rear taillight was shorting feeding back into the system causing the problem. I was the second one in to the dealer in the last month. The first guy paid 3 hours labour....I paid 15 minutes. No problems after that. As well a friend of mine had the same problem with his 06 legacy and another friend had the same problem on his 11 forester. All fixed with the replacement of the taillights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmmrdwn Posted August 2, 2016 Share Posted August 2, 2016 Ours started running rough and threw all those codes. I put in some fuel system cleaner, sprayed the MAF and disconnected the battery. Ran great after that. I think it was MAF or bad gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyboss-alpha1 Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 Hello everyone, new to the forums and I am in need of your help. I have a 2013 2.5i legacy limited that is experiencing the solid check engine light, flashing brake, and cruise control. This now my 2nd occurrence with this issue, the 1st time the problem went away when I replaced the gas cap with one from Advanced auto parts and I thought the issue was resolved in the past two months that had gone by. Today while driving to work the car was fine and then out of nowhere the same issue returned. I pulled over shutdown the car and re-tighten the gas cap and the problem persisted. I visited AutoZone on the way home from work and had them do a data port readout and I am showing the following codes: P0700 = Transmission Control System P2750 = Intermediate shaft speed sensor ****Update**** I decided to try one more time to re-tighten the gas cap and the lights have now cleared. However I am concerned about the codes that showed up and this issue occurring twice now. Do I have a transmission problem? Or what else is going on with the fuel neck inlet? Thanks, Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 If you have a transmission code and are still under powertrain warranty I would have the dealer check it out next time it happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5gnwht Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 I had all the lights, and P0304, #4 misfire. The car runs great. Tried clearing the codes with a reader but no luck. Filled tank with 91 from another gas station and ran it for 3 days. Tried erasing the P0304 again and everything cleared! Bad gas and just needed enough miles/starts to clear. I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5gnwht Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 But my kids loved that my face appeared blinking red at night from the brake light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 I would monitor that, the #4 cylinder will be the one most likely to fail from a bad ringland, a misfire could be a forewarning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyVetMP Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 Hello everyone, new to the forums and I am in need of your help. I have a 2013 2.5i legacy limited that is experiencing the solid check engine light, flashing brake, and cruise control. This now my 2nd occurrence with this issue, the 1st time the problem went away when I replaced the gas cap with one from Advanced auto parts and I thought the issue was resolved in the past two months that had gone by. Today while driving to work the car was fine and then out of nowhere the same issue returned. I pulled over shutdown the car and re-tighten the gas cap and the problem persisted. I visited AutoZone on the way home from work and had them do a data port readout and I am showing the following codes: P0700 = Transmission Control System P2750 = Intermediate shaft speed sensor ****Update**** I decided to try one more time to re-tighten the gas cap and the lights have now cleared. However I am concerned about the codes that showed up and this issue occurring twice now. Do I have a transmission problem? Or what else is going on with the fuel neck inlet? Thanks, Josh If the issue was the Fuel Cap not being tight enough, thus tripping the CEL. you would have a Code related to the EVAP System, NOT the Transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5gnwht Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 I believe the diagnostic codes when the CEL comes on alone. But I do not believe the codes when it also says the cruise control is malfunctioning, the parking brake is on, and the traction control is working. When all the warnings are on without problems, I don't believe the ECM. There could be a problem and there might not be a problem. The warning system become useless. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted January 1, 2018 Share Posted January 1, 2018 I believe the diagnostic codes when the CEL comes on alone. But I do not believe the codes when it also says the cruise control is malfunctioning, the parking brake is on, and the traction control is working. When all the warnings are on without problems, I don't believe the ECM. There could be a problem and there might not be a problem. The warning system become useless. The ecu lights up the cruise, brake, and traction to get your attention. This is normal for any trouble codes. If you're sending extra fuel through your catalytic converter, it will also flash the check engine instead of a steady light. I believe active misfires will also cause the check engine to flash. Flashing the cruise, traction and brake is not the ecu lying to you. It's simply a way to make sure you pay attention. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyboss-alpha1 Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 :::Update::: Replaced front driver side wheel speed sensor problem gone entirely. -- Previously had changed the gas gap with a brand new OEM one, Changed fuels, Had dealership check and run test nothing seemed to work. Had been told everything from the fuel cap not properly sealing, to ECU is acting up, ABS pump not working, ehh turns out it was in my case the wheel speed sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alynn Posted April 5, 2018 Share Posted April 5, 2018 This happened to me while driving in Florida over the weekend. Brake light flashing, CEL steady, and cruise control light flashing... Car wasn't driving different so I decided to park it for a few days and wait until I headed home to diagnose. After driving for a few hundred miles it turned to night and the temperature outside dropped below 60 -- the lights went off. Any idea what would cause that? Do the codes save so that I can pull them or do I have to wait until they come on again to use a code reader? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmyman Posted April 6, 2018 Share Posted April 6, 2018 This happened to me while driving in Florida over the weekend. Brake light flashing, CEL steady, and cruise control light flashing... Car wasn't driving different so I decided to park it for a few days and wait until I headed home to diagnose. After driving for a few hundred miles it turned to night and the temperature outside dropped below 60 -- the lights went off. Any idea what would cause that? Do the codes save so that I can pull them or do I have to wait until they come on again to use a code reader? Thanks! You haven't given any relevant info, was there any car work done, anything replaced... Your best bet is to read the error code and go from there. If you want to risk it (and assuming you know how), disconnect the battery, wait a bit, then connect the battery back, this will clear the code then see if its comes back, on the off chance it was a just a random error. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alynn Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 I gave all of the information. There has been no work done one on the vehicle except regular inspections and oil changes. I was driving down the road and the dash lit up. My question was can I still read the codes even if the CEL is off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted April 7, 2018 Share Posted April 7, 2018 You might be able to see one or more pending codes on a reader, couldn't hurt to try. Those are things that the ECU is keeping track of, but that haven't yet met the criteria to light up the Christmas tree- things like a flaky O2 sensor or coil pack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amichalski81 Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 i just rec'd these warnings this morning and the car is running extremely rough and stumbling. the owners manual says to not drive but i have to get to work & then get to dealer how the F are you not supposed to drive? i have had this prior when it winds up being the gas cap. but i never had the stumble before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 When it has a problem you really notice then there's a real problem and you should take it to the shop. Driving the car may cause a lot more expensive damage to the engine/drivetrain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arturo Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 Hi, This post has been around for a while but we experienced the identical problem over the weekend (August 5, 2018). In June of 2018 we purchased a 2012 Legacy Premium with 113,200 miles. A one-owner that looked like it just came from the Showroom. I had the Timing Belt job done (complete) by an Indy shop in West Allis, WI (Midcoast Auto; http://www.midcoastauto.com) that focuses on Subarus; Timing Belt Job, Head Gaskets, Heads, and Short Blocks. My research on the above referenced multiple warning light surprise lead to another Subaru blog that identified it as a Subaru electrical mystery that to date there is no factory diagnosis or fix for. The interim fix is to simply clear all of the codes and unless any of them reappears, just keep driving. That simple. No cost and nothing to worry about at this point. If you don't have a CODE reader get yourself an Actron CP9129 from Amazon or similar for ~$40 and you are set for life. Hope this helps. Arturo, Chicago suburbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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