frank_ster Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 are you just looking for things to buy ? i can sell you all kinds of useless crap if you like Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 are you just looking for things to buy ? i can sell you all kinds of useless crap if you like Yeah. You see, I just went through a new engine build and I'm having trouble coming to grips with not draining my wallet every week, so I fill the void by just throwing money at the wagon. No, no... My 200k trans mount is almost non-existent at this point. The Rallitek is cheaper/easier to source/possibly better than OEM. I take it you see no point in it? MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I dont see what a stiffer mount will give you. Just more noise and vibration. Certainly wont help with the feel from going to park to drive on the shifter ! Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I have the soft one, the blue version, and half of me wishes I never got it installed. It can get rough in cold temperature and to be perfectly honest at Stage 2 power levels I question it's utility. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Really, the biggest reason I'm considering is because my current trans mount is done. I figured in the process if I can get something better, then why not? Fishbone, can I get a little more detail on what you mean? MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I doubt an aftermarket one that is as soft as oem will last as long as an oem . If you want a stiffer one it may last a bit longer but driving quality of your car will likely be reduced. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragman Posted June 25, 2015 Share Posted June 25, 2015 Really, the biggest reason I'm considering is because my current trans mount is done. I figured in the process if I can get something better, then why not? Fishbone, can I get a little more detail on what you mean? You do realize the Railtech trans mount busing is not a new transmission mount, right? It is a bushing that you insert into your existing OEM trans mount. FYI, I have the blue softer version as well. It did stiffen up shifts and seems to have removed play in the drivetrain. But, it most definitely increase noise and vibrations, especially when cold out. To the point that I was tired of it, so I drilled a bunch of holes in the blue plastic to soften it up. Now, I am happier with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 You do realize the Railtech trans mount busing is not a new transmission mount, right? It is a bushing that you insert into your existing OEM trans mount. FYI, I have the blue softer version as well. It did stiffen up shifts and seems to have removed play in the drivetrain. But, it most definitely increase noise and vibrations, especially when cold out. To the point that I was tired of it, so I drilled a bunch of holes in the blue plastic to soften it up. Now, I am happier with it. Let me rephrase myself: My stock trans mount BUSHING is done. If the mount itself was done, I'd probably have some pretty major issues... Haha. Glad to hear the input though! Sounds like this is more of a "racecar" item and not necessarily daily oriented, especially where it gets cold. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 (edited) I'm starting to suspect a clunk coming from the drivetrain, right rear, when I am in manual mode and taking a sharp right turn, for example turning from a parking lot into a main road. It feels and sounds as if hitting a pothole or going over one of those raised plastic markers on the road. I have always assumed I'm hitting something and now I am starting to think it might be the trans. Does this sound familiar to anyone? Rear diff issues? LE: did some reading, sounds like I'm going to start by checking the tire pressure all around. Gonna do some figure 8-s in a parking lot and see what happens. Edited June 26, 2015 by fishbone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 26, 2015 Share Posted June 26, 2015 I had half shafts pop out of the rear diff Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitrzac Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 So it rained yesterday, and I had to go out and play.... When launching the car the front tires spin a little? Car is stg2, hexmods valvebody, diff bushings, etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Yea as all the weight transfers to the rear. It seems my rwd/4wd conversion launches even harder as the fromt doesnt spin nor the rear. But the rear diff is taking it all mow ! Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 I got a p0700 yesterday, "TCU malfunction" according to the accessport. But the wagon drives just the same as it ever has... has anyone gotten this code before? It's such a general code I have no clue how to diagnose it... MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 P0700 itself means nothing its normally paired with another code. You can see that other code with the onboard code reader in the odometer Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 P0700 itself means nothing its normally paired with another code. You can see that other code with the onboard code reader in the odometer I've got a 2005... I believe that whole code reader thing is a no go for me do you know of any other ways to red TCU codes? Maybe FreeSSM? I get what your saying though. From what I understand it's just the TCU telling the ECU to turn on the light, it could be any number of things. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 thats funny i have 3 2005 legacy's and i use the on board code reader all the time.. also if you look at my signature it clearly says all 05+ legacies have on board code reader. and its super easy to use. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 thats funny i have 3 2005 legacy's and i use the on board code reader all the time.. also if you look at my signature it clearly says all 05+ legacies have on board code reader. and its super easy to use. I just realized your sig said that! I swear to god though, I must've tried a million times to no avail... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 what did you try ? on the o5 you need to plug in the two green connectors burried in the fuse box by your left knee, ( they are there i promise ) then when you turn the key on during gauge sweep press the trip meter. thats all .. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 what did you try ? on the o5 you need to plug in the two green connectors burried in the fuse box by your left knee, ( they are there i promise ) then when you turn the key on during gauge sweep press the trip meter. thats all .. ^This. That was my problem. The few tutorials I had read over on the outback forums made no mention of that. I actually found a page of the FSM that outlined the process, after a little more research just now, but it said to connect the two white connectors. I did that and it worked! I got 4 codes.. 1 powertrain and 3 ABS: P1718, C0106, C0107, C0108 That powertrain code is a CAN BUS issue with the TCM, isnt it? I find that very odd.. as I haven't touched anything. I figured the code would go away after a few driving cycles, but a week later it's still there... The other three are for ABS sensors, which I also find odd. No flashing ABS light and once again nothing was touched. I also find it odd that three sensors go bad at once, but ABS issues are for another topic. I should also add that the wagon drives just fine, and ABS indeed works as well. I took it on a short road trip to Indiana today with zero issues whatsoever. I believe I have a wiring gremlin MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 those abs codes are always there. have you tried disconnecting the battery ? and is it code p0718 not p1718 ? if the p0700 codes come back you can disable p0700 in the ecm and the check engnine light will never come on for the trans again. but the actual codes will show in the odometer still. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I'll give that a shot tomorrow. It's my understanding that the Accessport can only reset codes on the ECU and not the TCU. It was indeed P1718 as well. I forgot to mention I got an ER+HC in the dash as well, but as soon as I restarted the car that disappeared. I'll bet some fluke happened, and now the TCU has that CAN code stored. If all else fails, I'll disable the code, but I'd really rather not take that route, I'm too OCD about the wagon to let something like that be covered up MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 If comminications isnt working your car will not work Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I'll give that a shot tomorrow. It's my understanding that the Accessport can only reset codes on the ECU and not the TCU This is correct. Only two tools can reset the TCU: Subaru Select via the dealer, or FreeSSM, a free open source tool for which you need an OBDII cable. Disconnecting the battery also does not reset the TCU. If the problem is corrected, trouble codes go away by themselves after a certain number of start cycles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTBwrench Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Well, the codes cleared this morning, I believe I'm out of the woods! *knocks on wood* Now I just need to solve my totally unpredictable knock issue, and I'll be one step closer to completion. MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance Everyone knows what I taste like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProjectSega Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 I have an 2008 LGT 5EAT. Not sure if its the 100% transmission or something else, but there's a weird noise when accelerating. I guess the best way to explain the noise is it sounds like a reverse noise, but not as long. The noise pitch increase as i accelerate and goes away when I'm at a steady speed or left off the gas. Noise pitch does not change when changing gears. Any ideas what it can be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now