I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 5, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 5, 2012 Bearings new rod bolts (?) If it's the piston, and the cylinder walls are okay, I'm planning on replacing all four but not splitting the block. I have heard that there are access doors to get to the pins holding them in. Although, I would have to buy the pins, too. I assume that's a minimal expense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Oh yea that's right. Yes there are plugs on the front of the block and panels behind the flywheel to access the rear piston pins. I think Subaru piston set should come with snap rings and pins. Do a web search and find out. You going with OEM pistons or Wisceo's or CP's ? What about a clutch ? Do you need a Torx Plus tp50 ? I have a extra set of WRX flywheel bolts that I bought just in case but I need the tp50's for my Al FW. Thinking about it, I guess you can hone the cylinders with the rods in ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 5, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 5, 2012 You going with OEM pistons or Wisceo's or CP's ? Probably Wisecos. What about a clutch ? Got a CM FX300 sitting in my garage now. If the compression test was okay, I was going to install it; as it is, install will be a bit easier. Do you need a Torx Plus tp50 ? I have a SMFW with regular bolts. I dealt with the TP50 last time around, and am glad I don't have to this time around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 I found that the 1/2 impact and the bit from Fred Beans made fast work of the torx plus tp50. To be honest with you, I don't understand why people complain about them, it was that easy. I bet I can have my machine shop open up the bolt holes so they will fit real bolts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 6, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 6, 2012 I found that the 1/2 impact and the bit from Fred Beans made fast work of the torx plus tp50. To be honest with you, I don't understand why people complain about them, it was that easy. If you don't hit the bolts just right, you strip the bit, the bolt, or both. I nearly stripped two of the bolts, but managed to carefully position the bit to get them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 I think you can reuse the OEM head bolts. I would check with a Subaru tech first. My research tells me they are not stretch bolts, and as such are reuseable. You shoulnd't need a new timing belt. If you need an old one, I can get you my "tool" timing belt for removing the cam pulleys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 6, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 6, 2012 I think you can reuse the OEM head bolts. I would check with a Subaru tech first. My research tells me they are not stretch bolts, and as such are reuseable. I might go to the dealer and ask, then. You shoulnd't need a new timing belt. If you need an old one, I can get you my "tool" timing belt for removing the cam pulleys. I mean, I don't NEED a new timing belt, but wouldn't it make sense, since I'm in there anyway? So you don't use the cam tool, you just tension a belt and take the bolt off that way? The cam tool is EXPENSIVE, so it would be nice not to have to get it. Update: engine is out. Bringing it into work tomorrow and getting it set up on the stand. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a325/thefultonhow/Subaru/IMG_20120506_143553.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Wow that was quick! And you're right, while you got the engine out replace all the wear and tear parts. ie spark plugs, belts, gaskets/O rings etc. It'll be a lot easier to refresh the engine while it's out rather than fighting with it in the car. I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Not wasting anytime are you... Good Job. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 If you don't hit the bolts just right, you strip the bit, the bolt, or both. I nearly stripped two of the bolts, but managed to carefully position the bit to get them out. Yep, you need to make sure you have the right angle and push the gun into the bolt. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Yeah, you put old timing belt from crank pulley to cam pulley, lock it with vise grips and unbolt the cam bolt http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k53/dat_dookie/stiblock.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Thanks for the photo, a picture is worth a 1000 words. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Yeah. This method works great. There is no need for an impact. 10mm hex head bolt driver on a breaker bar and a good tug and it's out. I found locking the flywheel or the crank pulley with a pry bar (2 3" extensions in the crank pulley holes) will make it go nice and easy. http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1318/554402492_40b9ee850f.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 Chain wrench works well too. http://images.yiyibusiness.com/products/023/235514_chain_wrench.gif I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 6, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 6, 2012 I used a chain wrench as well. I wouldn't do it again though. It scored the crank pulley pretty good. Not really any damage and the belts are fine on it, but it will leave some marks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 The trick is to wrap the crank pulley with an old belt, then chain wrenched it. I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 A fuel pump is not something that you need to replace "just in case", ESPECIALLY considering the price. Had to order mine directly from Bosch and it was still almost $300. Rather, a fuel pump assembly. My mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 6, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 6, 2012 The trick is to wrap the crank pulley with an old belt, then chain wrenched it. You tell me this now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 6, 2012 Share Posted May 6, 2012 duh, i thought it was common practice? used belt works best, or something really thick and pliable. I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 7, 2012 All of the DIY vids I saw showed the chain wrench directly on the pulley. I didn't even think of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 7, 2012 Author I Donated Share Posted May 7, 2012 Wow that was quick! Not wasting anytime are you... It only took me about 5 hours, taking my time. This is the third time I've pulled a Subaru engine, and so I've figured out a lot of the tricks. Subaru engines are certainly easier than FWD stuff like my old G20. I'm a little lazy and don't feel like searching... it's the intake cam on the driver's side that wants to rotate, right? Any tricks to not have it do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 cam gear tool is a worth while purchase. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 It won't hurt anything when it spins from timing belt removal. It is the driver side intake that you are referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 I thought it was an interference engine? I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 7, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 7, 2012 If the crank is lined up, nothing will hit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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