lingling1337 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 I noticed the sound begin a few days ago, and it has not gone away since. The previous driver had it for 82000 miles and I just got the car less than a week ago. I was just coming to a stop sign in my neighborhood and heard the engine start to sound rough. (Definitely not just the "boxer sound". Sounds just a bit like a diesel but not as bad as when I had a blown head gasket on my old car) Now it idles rough all the time, not so bad when the engine is "cold" (temperature-wise its warm out) but starts to sound worse once I've run it for a while. I also think I feel a bit of lag on acceleration some times. Owner said a compression test came out fine but maybe I should start there? How in the world could I have done this within a few days of buying the car? I opened it up a bit on the highway but I certainly wasn't beating on it. And I'm still learning stick so I've made a couple clunky shifts but no grinding or anything crazy. More importantly what could the cause of the problem be? Oil and coolant as well as all other fluids look fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berzerklo Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 My first guess would be a vacuum leak. Check all vacuum connections, and zip tie them down if you have time. I take it that you haven't thrown any codes yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 you probably blew a hose off the intake manifold, check the lines under your innacoola Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwsurfwakeskate Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 small head gasket leaks are sometimes undetectable when the car is cold but then when the engine is hot the thermal expansion opens up a leak. Check to see if you're getting any smoke. what color is it? does it smell sweet? I'd also check your coolant level and monitor your oil consumption closely to see if there is anything strange going on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Clean the MAF sensor with the spray cleaner made to do that. Oh learn to check the oil and top it off as needed, these cars use oil. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OutbackXT05 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Does it drive perfectly fine? Mine idled like complete crap but drove just fine when i popped a vaccum line. If i gave it even a little gas itd idle smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 I did blow a head gasket last time I had rough idle so I've been checking all fluids twice a day and everything seems normal. I popped off the engine cover last night and check all my hoses, everything seemed ok, I will take another look though... should I get under the car and check things out? No codes yet. No smell but i'll keep my nose out. The sound does stay the same when I give it gas. I feel like there's definitely lag in the accelerator when Im in gear, when I floor it I get nothing. I have to roll on it just the right way. What the hell could I have done? Maybe blew a line that hadn't seen much use over the winter by accelerating hard (I got it pretty much just as seasons were changing)? I did like 3 runs to 80 just for kicks and giggles but that seems totally within the parameters of a car like this. EDIT: I got premium gas at some no-name station and it started a while after that. I just topped off the other 3/4 of my tank with BP with Invigorate, I'll see if that affects anything. I'll stop by the auto parts store and get some MAF cleaner too, but I would assume that crap accumulating on the MAF would be a slower process... I noticed my car change idle instantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 you probably blew a hose off the intake manifold, check the lines under your innacoola Dollars to donuts that this is the cause. unless you're tiny with extra joints, you'll need to remove the intercooler to reach the feared "blue T" of death. A few small zip ties and you'll be back on the road with a smooth idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 Are you running premium fuel? Sounds like you car is running in limp mode. If all vacuum hoses are in check, the next thing I would do is pull the spark plugs, inspect, and replace if needed. Reset the ECU either by OBDII or disconnect the battery for a few mins. Run the car and determine if the problem remains. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwsurfwakeskate Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 you could have 1 or more injectors failing. I had an injector go on mine last year and it would miss quite a bit at an idle and still not throw codes. It eventually got bad enough to throw a cylinder misfire code but that wasn't until a couple weeks after the rough idle started. you could do an exhaust gas analysis too which might find a leak under hot engine conditions that a compression check otherwise wouldn't find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Share Posted March 27, 2012 Dollars to donuts that this is the cause. unless you're tiny with extra joints, you'll need to remove the intercooler to reach the feared "blue T" of death. A few small zip ties and you'll be back on the road with a smooth idle. OK cool. the intercooler doesn't look too hard to pull of and honestly I'd rather do that than try and get the front on jack stands again (at least til I buy a low-pro jack) Laggy acceleration is a confirmed problem now and sounds like the blue T-fitting might be related. I'll check it out. F1 yes I am running premium fuel. The BP fuel didn't seem to help a lot but I'll give it a while (only drove like 20 miles since I topped it off.) BTW you guys are saying to just zip tie the hose to the fitting right? Any problem with just using a screw-type hose clamp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 either or is fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 There is definitely ticking and knocking in the engine, I think I'll just get it to a mechanic asap. God what a headache. At least Im getting the Maxcare extended warranty transferred to me (although it takes 30 days before I can get work done I heard). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Clean the MAF, check the blue T connector under the IC. If its not one of those it can either be dirty injectors or leaking IM gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Clean the MAF, check the blue T connector under the IC. If its not one of those it can either be dirty injectors or leaking IM gaskets. I was going to say the o-rings too, but it's getting warmer now, those normally only present a issue in colder temps. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 OK cool. the intercooler doesn't look too hard to pull of and honestly I'd rather do that than try and get the front on jack stands again (at least til I buy a low-pro jack) Laggy acceleration is a confirmed problem now and sounds like the blue T-fitting might be related. I'll check it out. F1 yes I am running premium fuel. The BP fuel didn't seem to help a lot but I'll give it a while (only drove like 20 miles since I topped it off.) BTW you guys are saying to just zip tie the hose to the fitting right? Any problem with just using a screw-type hose clamp? WHen you see how small the vacuum lines are, you'll understand about the small zip-ties. Yes the tmic is easy to remove. Just do not remove the TB end of the hose. Leave the hose from the TMIC to the TB on the TB. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spun Muffler Bearings Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I might have to visit this t-fitting myself. Warm idle roughened up on my XT. Dealer said it was not that rough, they still considered it normal. I also notice a very random power flutter when I'm at high load/low RPM, well before boost. It smooths right out once the RPMs cross 2100 and then boost hits normally a bit after that. I feel like it's done that all along, and the idle problem happened later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 I might have to visit this t-fitting myself. Warm idle roughened up on my XT. Dealer said it was not that rough, they still considered it normal. I also notice a very random power flutter when I'm at high load/low RPM, well before boost. It smooths right out once the RPMs cross 2100 and then boost hits normally a bit after that. I feel like it's done that all along, and the idle problem happened later. When the T fitting on my car blew off, the car idled rough enough at stop lights the engine would die without a little throttle. Your problem sounds more like injectors or spark plugs from my own personal experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 When the T fitting on my car blew off, the car idled rough enough at stop lights the engine would die without a little throttle. Your problem sounds more like injectors or spark plugs from my own personal experience. Ah so the t-fitting can produce a pretty harsh idle? Did it get worse over time? Maybe I'll check it out today before I take it to a mechanic. My idle is really starting to sound like shit, so I'm taking it in tomorrow. Thanks for all your help yall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackhore Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Ah so the t-fitting can produce a pretty harsh idle? Did it get worse over time? Maybe I'll check it out today before I take it to a mechanic. After mine popped off, the car ran rough at the next stop light and continued to do so until I fixed the vacuum leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Could it be that the valves are out of adjustment? If theres a ticking they could be loose. That could just be my inner VW guy talking though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 you mean the valve lash? these valves tighten up over time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 *coughhydraulicvalvescough* My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 Yeah, I suppose. Just a thought. Oh shit, I'm thinking of the SOHC heads. Do'h! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 Uggh. I wish it was a simple t-fitting. All the hoses on that looked good, as did every other hose I could see. Revved the engine while parked I could hear a pop or a knock past 3k rpms... I have been trying to stay out of boost so hopefully there hasnt been too much of that happening while driving. When I hit the throttle while parked, revs would increase as expected but it would drop to a low, shuddering idle before returning to high idle (~1100 rpms). Here's the kicker- found a 17mm Snap-On wrench from the dealership, probably from when he got the turbo replaced. Wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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