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06 Legacy GT rough idle


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My car is having the same problems. I just took off the tmic and checked the infamous hose and it's still connected. I just got my car back from the dealership and they did nothing besides tell me I need a new maf sensor when I really don't because I accidently made the car throw the code couple weeks back. I'm thinking injectors and I need to figure it out cuz its really annoying.
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Uggh. I wish it was a simple t-fitting. All the hoses on that looked good, as did every other hose I could see.

 

Revved the engine while parked I could hear a pop or a knock past 3k rpms... I have been trying to stay out of boost so hopefully there hasnt been too much of that happening while driving.

 

When I hit the throttle while parked, revs would increase as expected but it would drop to a low, shuddering idle before returning to high idle (~1100 rpms).

 

Here's the kicker- found a 17mm Snap-On wrench from the dealership, probably from when he got the turbo replaced. Wow.

 

My rpms have been doing the same thing even while driving and let go of the gas, it drops real low before going to normal 1100 or so..... Idk if it's normal

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Keep in mind, all the little hoses up front just behind the P/S pump will cause rough idles and misfiring codes. I learn that the hard way when I forgot to reconnect one of them. There are a lot of little vacuum hoses under the hood, so make sure you check all of them before proceeding to the next step.
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I'm a noob but checking as much as I can. With no codes idk what to do. Bringing it to shops and nothing being done is getting old and expensive. Soo being convinced its the injectors... What would that job cost me?
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After I check all the hoses, I would proceed with checking my spark plugs. Changing my spark plugs have solved a couple of my issues in the past, and I've made it a standard to change them once a year now. If you think the problems are with the injectors, then you might want to pull them and have them tested, and since their being tested, it would be a good idea to have them rebuilt. RC Engineering in CA is where I had previous injectors (from a different car) tested and rebuilt.

 

Here's their link - http://www.rceng.com/

My wife's balls are delicious.
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After I check all the hoses, I would proceed with checking my spark plugs. Changing my spark plugs have solved a couple of my issues in the past, and I've made it a standard to change them once a year now. If you think the problems are with the injectors, then you might want to pull them and have them tested, and since their being tested, it would be a good idea to have them rebuilt. RC Engineering in CA is where I had previous injectors (from a different car) tested and rebuilt.

 

Here's their link - http://www.rceng.com/

 

Hey man are you giving advice to me or shady or both?

 

I checked things out behind the steering pump and the 4 (i think) hoses I saw looked fine.

 

I suppose I can pull the spark plugs and see if theyre fouled but I don't have gapper.

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Advice for anyone. :)

 

I had a fouled plug which threw a misfiring code and put the ECU into limp mode. Figured I would take the easier way first by replacing the plugs, and glad I did, as it was a fouled plug. Not saying you have a fouled plug, but it's just another step in diagnosing your issue.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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Advice for anyone. :)

 

I had a fouled plug which threw a misfiring code and put the ECU into limp mode. Figured I would take the easier way first by replacing the plugs, and glad I did, as it was a fouled plug. Not saying you have a fouled plug, but it's just another step in diagnosing your issue.

 

Yeah definitely. At this point the spark plug seems like a pretty marginal possibility so I'll let the pros handle it. And now I'm going to kick myself if I pay the mechanic $150 to diagnose it and it's a bad spark plug :lol:

 

By the way the engine couldnt seem to get air to start after I reassembled the TMIC... I thought I had the bolts tight enough but I tightened them again, a little past where I was comfortable, and it started up just fine, honestly maybe better than before. EDIT: scratch that my torque is probably fine. my torque wrench starts at 20 and it doesnt click at that so I'll call it good.

 

 

UPDATE: there a couple loud pops/bangs after i hit 3k rpms. Ideas? The bang is from the engine and sounds like the area of the turbo... definitely not the tailpipe.

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Your problem sounds more like injectors or spark plugs from my own personal experience.

 

Appreciate the opinion, thanks. Both of those, and valve adjustment were on my list of suspects before I started reading this thread.

 

I'm at 115k now, and the records show the current plugs going in (prev. owner) at 90k. I'd planned to do them again at 120k but maybe I'll try it early.

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UPDATE: there a couple loud pops/bangs after i hit 3k rpms. Ideas? The bang is from the engine and sounds like the area of the turbo... definitely not the tailpipe.

 

 

From the Turbo area? The only thing I could think of is a possible loose connection on the intake tube to the turbo or UP/DP has a leaky gasket. Hopefully it's not a sticky WG or actuator on the turbo. There's been a few members that had their WG stuck before.

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Well I just got back from the shop and they essentially told me, "turn your radio up". Lol. They said the subarus are noisy engines and Im just not used to it (which Im definitely not).

 

Actually not totally, there was a loose hose clamp on the air intake (spent time last night checking every hose but that one :redface:). I figured this was the cause of my laggy accel. I'm still getting jumpy accel esp. in 2nd gear but I'll give the ECU a day to relearn.

 

He said he didn't like a sound coming from the turbo so if Im still having problems in a couple days he said hed take off the dp and take a closer look.

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  • 9 months later...
damn so what happened? what was the problem? don't leave me hanging man~

 

I honestly still think the idle is different than when I first got it but everything is running fine. Has plenty of power and my mechanic says it checks out so I'm not worried about it. Acceleration can still be a bit "jumpy" but I believe that's normal for the stock tune.

 

No oil leak, another car with an oil leak had actually parked in my spot which is what made me think that. It does consume oil though. I'm going to switch to Rotella T6 and see what happens.

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