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Consistant trouble with my E-tune


paintpollz

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if any humans could help me on how to upload the RR file that would be great thanks. Ill load an LV screen shot and another RR log tomorrow on my way to my GFs
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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That LV is terrible. Your fuel trims are pretty bad and you have a ton of low load low rpm knock.

 

Start by checking for leaks.

 

This. Check for air leaking into the intake between the MAF sensor and turbo.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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the LV looks like shit. if this is new, it's not the tune, it's your car. the a/f's are out of wack, and you have knock. check all hoses and lines

 

ya its new, and its happened before. I did a quick once over to check for loose connections but didnt find any. I will check again tomorrow

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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This. Check for air leaking into the intake between the MAF sensor and turbo.

 

any other places you all recommend while my head is under the hood at lunch?

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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now that I think of it, the MAF sensor itself didn't exactly fit really well on the AVO intake. maybe its a good idea to make a paper gasket for it and start there
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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nothing noticable to the eye as far as leaks are concerned from the MAF to the turbo. no vac lines popped off, dry rot, or anything like that.
"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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You can't just eyeball things for leaks. Sometimes the leaks are really, really small, but open up under pressure. Check for loose clamps/hoses, etc. Check the condition of your IC, for popped tabs, etc.
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Woah, wait, haaaaaaaaang on a second. Looked at that LV again. Your fuel trims are negative. That means it's subtracting fuel. You don't have a vacuum/intake leak. You are running RICH and it's pulling fuel, like crazy.

 

Someone else confirm.

 

Again, check your MAF sensor. If it's not seated AND sealed correctly, it'll mess everything up.

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NSFW: "If the value of a fuel trim is positive, that means that the ECU has determined that it needs to add a bit more fuel to achieve the desired AFR.[4] In other words, the ECU has determined that the MAF sensor scaling is too low in the corresponding air flow range. Conversely, a negative fuel trim indicates that the ECU is reducing the fuel delivery for that range, meaning that the MAF scaling in that range is slightly too high.

 

The general consensus is that if the fuel trim values are within -5% to +5%, then the sub-60-g/s (closed-loop) region of your MAF scaling is good enough.

 

Since the fuel trims float around as you drive, you should sample them a few times before making adjustments, if you're seeing values that are within a couple percent of zero. But, if they're off by more than 5%, then your scaling would certainly benefit from an adjustment.

 

If your top-end trim (40+ in the example above) is off by more than 5% you should stay out of boost until/unless you have verified that your AFRs are on target in open loop. The reason is that top-end trim value is in effect during open loop operation."

 

from rr forum

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Right, but huge positive values in trims A and B with smaller positive values in C and D indicate a vacuum/intake leak. But he has hugely negative values. Therefore, it's not a vacuum/intake leak as we all initially thought, no?
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You can't just eyeball things for leaks. Sometimes the leaks are really, really small, but open up under pressure. Check for loose clamps/hoses, etc. Check the condition of your IC, for popped tabs, etc.

 

? I know that the only real way is to shoot compressed air in. But I can eyball loose clamps and hoses.

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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exhaust leak pre-o2 can cause oddly high values

 

maybe try and tighten the DP? all my gaskets are fresh. hmmmmmm. hoping a paper gasket and new bolts for the MAF will do the trick

"Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left."
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I think it depends on how big the leak is..if it is large enough to allow unmetered air to enter the combustion chamber, it will add fuel (since the unmetered air will lean out the mix).
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking.

 

What would cause the negative trims though? I don't know why a leak would cause negative trims? :confused:

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