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Finally going stage 3!


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Alright, so after a long break from this build, I decided to get back to it. I never realized that it would be such a pain to install my new inlet pipe, but I decided that I would take the route of taking off the intake manifold just to make things a bit easier. I know, it was a pain itself to remove the manifold but I like to have things out of the way. I also decided to do an airpump delete at this time. I used the DIY from M Sprank to help me out. It was a bit difficult at first but once you get the driver side solenoid off its not too hard. I decided to leave the passenger side solenoid on because I didnt want to hack it up for the baro-meter. Although the harness was in the way of the turbo outlet, The rest of the solenoid cleared it, so i bought the solenoid block off plate from KS Tech. For the harness, I just cut the top portion of it off and secured it with zip ties. I test fitted the turbo with the silicone coupler and it was perfect.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll283/dubs424/IMAG0265.jpgTheres the manifold. In total time, took me about an hour to take the thing off.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll283/dubs424/IMAG0262.jpg

As you can see here the studs are where the driver side airpump solenoid is mounted. To my mistake, I did not realize this whole separate piece comes off the head. After this piece is off, the driver side block off plate goes in the void.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll283/dubs424/IMAG0263.jpgPeek-A-Boo

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll283/dubs424/IMAG0264.jpg

Heres the airpump solenoid harness that gets in the way of the turbo

outlet.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll283/dubs424/IMAG0267.jpgHeres where I cut the top portion of the harness. In order to do this, you'll have to lose the retainer clip. A zip tie will hold that in place just fine. (Don't judge me. I used to be a Honda guy.):lol:

 

So in conclusion, since the manifold is off and all......I was thinking of TGV deletes. What do you guys think?:spin:

For the last time, my car is not a Camry
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Hmmm I was thinking about getting some grimmspeed TGV deletes. I might do that but for now, I have to replenish some of my funds. I don't want to dig into my engine build money just yet.
For the last time, my car is not a Camry
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Does anybody know why you are supposed to take the rod out for the tgv instead of just taking the plate out, I feel like if you just left that rod in there, then you wouldn't get a CEL b/c the motor would just be turning the empty bar back and forth.
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There are 2 electrical parts of the tgv. The motor and the position sensor. The motor turns the shaft and the sensor on the other end detects its position. You can remove the shaft but youll need to disable the cel's since the sensor is not detecting what the motors doing since theres no shaft. 05-06 have these two units. 07+ have 1 unit and a blockoff plate on the opposite side. This was because of secodary air equipment
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  • 2 weeks later...
Well, the rain is back here in SF so I can really work on the car. All thats left to do is route the intercooler, oil change, coolant flush and we are pretty much done. I've decided to get an infamous tune since it was recommended by wpmarky. Ive decided to go back to the grimmspeed ebcs route. Ill post numbers once I have them
For the last time, my car is not a Camry
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  • 5 months later...

AHHH i forgot about this thread! Well the build was all successful. I decided to say with the EBCS setup. I do love the power that the 20g yields in the high end but It does have substantial lag. I get full boost at around 3700rpm. http://us.mg5.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?fid=Inbox&mid=2_0_0_1_1461386_AMXjimIAAP%2FJT34ALwcI1GEOofM&pid=2&tnef=&YY=1346782563249&file_name=09%27%20Spec%20B%2020g.jpg&appid=YahooMailNeo

It made about as much power as I expected. One thing I noticed after having an FMIC is that there is a bit of lag in the throttle response. I think this is due to more unmetered air that is not read by the maf sensor. Because of this, I wish I would have gone with a speed density set up. This allows fuel control to be dependent on values provided by the MAP sensor in stead of the MAF sensor. I also have been throwing a code for MAP sensor circuit output being to high. This might be because I need a 3 bar sensor. I took the car to the drag strip and got an 13.2 E/T time. I sure I could have gotten a better time if I shifted a bit better and worked on my launch. I was only able to do 2 runs that day. I noticed that I got alot of wheel spin off the line and achieved a higher trap speed with this set up compared to stage 2. I had tons of fun doing this build. I'm definitely surprised that this build didn't give me as much of a headache I thought it would. Next up? I bought a short block that I'm planning to build. Im currently looking for dual AVCS heads so I can get some head work done. Again I do apologize for leaving everybody hanging!:spin:

For the last time, my car is not a Camry
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