nouse4aname Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Master bathroom demolition has drawn blood. It's officially a project now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nouse4aname Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Also it is amazing how many people want 1980s bathroom cabinetry if you put it up on craigslist/freecycle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 I threw out a whole bunch of stuff with the trash last week... I was amazed at how quickly pickers took it off my tree lawn. I'll have some mold pictures for you guys later today... the company I had come in did a fantastic job. Found I have asbestos tiles in my basement... no worries though as they are not friable so no inhalation worries. Not sure how to cover them though and removing them (professional) is cost-prohibitive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Reading this thread is like going to work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Found I have asbestos tiles in my basement... no worries though as they are not friable so no inhalation worries. Not sure how to cover them though and removing them (professional) is cost-prohibitive. Floor tiles? What do they look like? My garage has asbestos tiles that I just painted with outdoor latex and they still look great after 3 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 Typically asbestos tiles are 9x9. It's sometimes the mastic that has the asbestos. Sometimes it's the tile, or both if you're lucky LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 12, 2014 Share Posted April 12, 2014 It's the dust that's dangerous - especially if you are a smoker. If it can't release any dust then the risk is minimized. It seems to me that the restrictions around asbestos are worse than handling some radioactive material... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Floor tiles? What do they look like? My garage has asbestos tiles that I just painted with outdoor latex and they still look great after 3 years. Red and black checker board pattern. Typically asbestos tiles are 9x9. It's sometimes the mastic that has the asbestos. Sometimes it's the tile, or both if you're lucky LOL Bingo. I measured and sure as isht, they're 9x9. It's the dust that's dangerous - especially if you are a smoker. If it can't release any dust then the risk is minimized. It seems to me that the restrictions around asbestos are worse than handling some radioactive material... No kidding. I think you can pull them up as a residential homeowner... you just have to take it all to a landfill that accepts asbestos. Masks are about 20 bucks, spray bottle for water to minimize dust, contractor bags, duct tape and time... It wouldn't be that much of a problem if my floor didn't have a slight slope to it due to a crack in the concrete. If I want to put down NatureStone or self leveling concrete and ceramic tile, the VAT tiles have to come up. I could get that DriCore stuff from Lowe's/HomeDepot but then I'd have to level that and then cover that with something else on top of losing ~2" of ceiling height while having a step into the room. Going to worry about finishing the electrical stuff and painting the main floor for now. One project at a time... one project at a time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 9x9 isn't always positively asbestos. Usually, but not always. Test is about $100 usually. Dricore is great. I put about 1350 sq ft down in my house, and another 800 sq ft in my buddy's house. Expensive, but nice product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 I'd be putting down about 300 square feet. The room would be about 12x24... I could do 14 but I think there's some building code out that says you need to leave at least 2 feet between any framed basement walls and the furnace. Makes sense to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 Sounds right. No combustibles within 24" rings a bell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 13, 2014 Share Posted April 13, 2014 (edited) No kidding. I think you can pull them up as a residential homeowner... you just have to take it all to a landfill that accepts asbestos. Masks are about 20 bucks, spray bottle for water to minimize dust, contractor bags, duct tape and time... Just be sure that it's an asbestos proof mask, but I would start with keeping them soaked to avoid dust to spread. Soaked with oil would be better since it doesn't evaporate. Notice that any dust will also spread throughout the building easily. An alternative would be to pour a 2" layer of concrete or similar on top of them tiles. Edited April 13, 2014 by ehsnils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nouse4aname Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Hot water heater started leaking...on a holiday weekend...in a house I want to sell this year. Needs a replacement. Ain't home ownership grand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 Don't get me started Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Hot water heater started leaking...on a holiday weekend...in a house I want to sell this year. Needs a replacement. Ain't home ownership grand? That happened 2 weeks after I closed on my house. Not a big deal to replace, right? Gas line, cold and hot water connections, flue... Yeah, 2 day project for me. Didn't get started until 6pm and by the time I had everything disconnected and ready to slot the new tank into place, I realized I couldn't re-use the old flue pipes and the new, braided supply lines I bought were too long... just in time for Lowe's (10 minute drive) to close in 3 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 20, 2014 Moderators Share Posted April 20, 2014 ^^live and learn--never start a plumbing project that you don't think you'll finish before the stores close if you can help it. I've had a busted garage entry door for 6 months or so now. I broke the glass in it a while ago, and whomever installed it previously did a crap job anyway. Virtually no support structure and not even any king studs. Ripped it out on Friday and roughed it in, finished it up today. Nice to have a new door with an actual frame now "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nouse4aname Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Yeah, messing with gas and our county requires a permit for a water heater even if it's a replacement. I'm just paying to have that installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 (edited) I guess I could start posting some pictures. I'm hesitant though because it's going to be a work in progress for a while... Anyway, this was last weekend. We're going to re-do the entire front yard landscaping (at least the beds by the house) which started with digging/cutting out the evergreens on the right side. That was a real treat, let me tell you, because they were there when the previous owners moved in 20 years ago. I'll get the mold room before/after pictures off my phone after I grab a bite to eat... you guys will want to be sitting down for those. Edited April 20, 2014 by baconbits Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eckseleven Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Funny seeing the asbestos tile talk...I just removed a bunch of tile this weekend. Not sure if that's what it was but they were 9x9 and had the ugly color patterns that you typically see. The majority of it came up fine in whole pieces. There were some that were a bit more stubborn though. I had the room closed, heating vents plugged, and a fan blowing out the window. I had a chemical mask on (not sure if rated for asbestos) and sprayed down the troublesome tiles with a foaming sanitizer that I use for my beer brewing equipment. I had read that the amount of exposure that you would get from a small scale job (this room is only 100 sq/ft) isn't enough to cause any harm but it is good to play it safe anyway. It is primarily construction workers and factory workers from when the tiles were manufactured that need to worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I think I mostly took care of my water penetration issues I've always had in my basement. I got up on a ladder and saw the drip rail is a good 4 to 5 inches away from the gutter. I got 2 rolls of 8 inch aluminum flashing, bent it all up and went right over the old, ineffective drip rail and sealed up whatever I could. The hose test gave the results I was looking for. I'm anxious for a really rainy day to see how much water still gets in the basement, but nothing is in the forecast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 Anybody lay a vinyl roll on a kitchen floor before? Looks like a PITA, but my options are limited because 1. where it's going is a rental (so not spending a ton of money) 2. the floor is pretty uneven. The flooring store wanted $1100 for an install of their cheapest roll. No thanks, for that cost I'd install tiles myself. My sister did peel and stick tiles with grout in her kitchen. It actually looks fantastic, but I don't think it would hold up well to renters who DGAF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Is there a home unimprovement thread? I'm renting, but my friend owns the house. He bought it 2 years ago, did a ton of renovations to it, and I helped with a few little things, so I care about the place more than an average rental. The property came with a fence, but my friend thought the fence was about a yard over the property line, into his property. Last fall, after my having the property surveyed to confirm that the fence was indeed over the property line, he ripped out the old fence. He was planning on putting a new fence in this year, but the neighbors beat him to it. They just put this ugly ghetto-looking piece of shit fence in: http://i.imgur.com/pwcHytn.jpg You can barely see the old wooden fence in the background - that's what the old divider fence was like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Yeah, messing with gas and our county requires a permit for a water heater even if it's a replacement. I'm just paying to have that installed. Technically I needed a permit too but you need permits for virtually everything. I'm not paying $150 for a permit to replace a $300 water heater. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Anybody lay a vinyl roll on a kitchen floor before? Looks like a PITA, but my options are limited because 1. where it's going is a rental (so not spending a ton of money) 2. the floor is pretty uneven. The flooring store wanted $1100 for an install of their cheapest roll. No thanks, for that cost I'd install tiles myself. My sister did peel and stick tiles with grout in her kitchen. It actually looks fantastic, but I don't think it would hold up well to renters who DGAF Rolled vinyl can be pretty easy to put down, depending on the layout of the room. Lots of jut-outs and obstacles, can create issues... As will seams. I would really only do it in a small space where the seams are visible (under appliances are fine IMO for a rental). In a rental, I would go with peel n stick. Cheap, easy to replace one or two of if they get gouged (buy an extra box for spares). Technically I needed a permit too but you need permits for virtually everything. I'm not paying $150 for a permit to replace a $300 water heater. Most municipalities require permits for just about everything, even an outlet replacement! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL21376 Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Technically I needed a permit too but you need permits for virtually everything. I'm not paying $150 for a permit to replace a $300 water heater. I spent days fighting with the plumbing company over this. They wanted a whopping $2100 to replace a 55 gallon hot water heater. This is after trying to fix it despite there being holes rustred through the top. I was caught between the home warranty company and a shady plumber. I called the county and it turned out you only needed a permit if it wasn't being installed by a licensed plumber. Ended up having a mom and pop plumber do the job for $600. The other place only had one licensed plumber, and they couldn't guarantee he would be the one doing the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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