HighLatency Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 This morning, I jumped into the legacy and fired it up to find that as soon as I started it, the revs reached 1500 then slowly dropped down to about 500 where it threatened to stall. I tried giving it a little gas to see if that would help and you could feel it stuttering to get it up. When I took my foot off completely, the car completely stalls. I should also mention that the check engine light comes up. The last time I had driven it was about 12 hours earlier and there were no issues at all and no check engine light displayed. Does anyone know where I should start my search? I've had a quick look around the engine bay and I can't see any loose connections. EDIT:Oh, and as soon as I throw it into drive or reverse, it stalls soon after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Have you tried pulling/cleaning your idle air control valve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 get the code read at autozone or advance auto parts. it's free and it will point you in a direction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 I've had another look just now, started it up and tried unplugging the idle air control valve and it made no difference. Does this mean that it needs to be replaced? Also, I'm not able to get the car anywhere at the moment so I'm unable to take it any mechanic. Is there a way to find out what the check engine light code is from home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdaddy41301 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 You can give advance auto a deposit and they will let you bring the tester home and you can get your money back when you return it. Atleast the one here does anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Unplugging it wont do anything, you have to physically remove it and clean it with throttle body cleaner or carbon cleaner or something of that nature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdaddy41301 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 I think what he is asking is will it make difference when it is unplugged if it is working correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted January 14, 2012 I Donated Share Posted January 14, 2012 Unplugging it wont do anything, you have to physically remove it and clean it with throttle body cleaner or carbon cleaner or something of that nature. No you don't. Just spray Carb cleaner in the line off the air intake for it. I say mass air flow -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 15, 2012 Author Share Posted January 15, 2012 I think what he is asking is will it make difference when it is unplugged if it is working correctly. Sorry, yeah that's exactly what I meant. And earlier, when I said I disconnected the IACV, I meant the MAF. I'll try to be a little clearer from now on I've had my brother have a look at it and he seems to agree with you there Brokin. I've had a look around some local scrappers and I cannot by the life of me find one for my model. They are either already taken or different. Do you know where I can buy a new MAF and how much they generally cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted January 15, 2012 Share Posted January 15, 2012 No you don't. Just spray Carb cleaner in the line off the air intake for it. I say mass air flow If your feeling lazy? Its not the same. And I would rather not drop all that carbon and soot into my engine/intake tract. But maybe its just me. If you're going to do something.. do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Okay, so after trying a new MAF sensor I've found that it is not the issue. so my question is, where to from here? I'll buy some carb cleaner on the way home today and take a shot at cleaing the IACV tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I bet when you pull it off, its loaded with shit and stuck. You night have to clean it a few times to get it workers ng completely right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 I had a look at it earlier and had seen that there is a lot going on in the area (pipes, wiring ect..) so it looks like a bit of a daunting task. Hopefully I can do this, otherwise I'll have to bug the brother again. EDIT:I've also been told to try throwing a bit of fuel cleaner in and that I should be running 95 octaine instead of 91, despite the previous owner just using 91. Is this the case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I had a look at it earlier and had seen that there is a lot going on in the area (pipes, wiring ect..) so it looks like a bit of a daunting task. Hopefully I can do this, otherwise I'll have to bug the brother again. EDIT:I've also been told to try throwing a bit of fuel cleaner in and that I should be running 95 octaine instead of 91, despite the previous owner just using 91. Is this the case? Running seafoam through the system will help alot. Read the can for exact dosing, don't bother with the oil as its typically more corrosive than beneficial but through a vacuum line and gas tank for sure. And it looks way more difficult than it is, I promise. IIRC, its only two phillips head screws that hold it to the IM on your car. There is also a coolant passage that runs through it to help keep it warm, so expect a small amount of coolant to emerge when you remove it. Also, ne careful with the gasket. Its rubber and should be re-usable, if you don't totally rip it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Okay, will give it a good attempt tonight. Thanks for the help though, it's much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Use as large a scrwewdriver as fits and use downward pressure on those screws. A little PB may help. They are brass screws and are easy to strip. When you take the IACV off, you'll probably need a new gasket. Get the gasket first, for the one in there will probably swell and won't seat properly. You also need to remove the electrical plastic housing. There is a wheel protruding, if it does not turn freely,that is your issue. Free it and clean with the air cleaner. Not sure of the forum or member, but following his advice, I replaced the IM screws with 5mmx20mm long cap head screws. I went further and used 4mmx20 for the plastic housing. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1055 Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 I reused my original screws and gasket because the gasket didn't swell ans the screws came out easily. They are brass, and if I had the option to I would replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 17, 2012 Author Share Posted January 17, 2012 Use as large a scrwewdriver as fits and use downward pressure on those screws. A little PB may help. They are brass screws and are easy to strip. When you take the IACV off, you'll probably need a new gasket. Get the gasket first, for the one in there will probably swell and won't seat properly. You also need to remove the electrical plastic housing. There is a wheel protruding, if it does not turn freely,that is your issue. Free it and clean with the air cleaner. Not sure of the forum or member, but following his advice, I replaced the IM screws with 5mmx20mm long cap head screws. I went further and used 4mmx20 for the plastic housing. O. Cheers, thanks for the heads up on the screws and gasket. I'm building a shopping list of all the things I'll need for when I manage to get out of work to get this all sorted. Fingers crossed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLatency Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 I felt I should let you know that you were spot on the money with the MAF sensor. The first one I tested was also shot (what luck). We had tried eveything suggested here and were a little stumped so we tried another sensor and all was well. Anyway, thanks for the help with this. You guys are awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Where is the IACV? I can't find it in the vacation pics or anywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 it is affixed to the largest diameter hose off the intake pipe, just to the RHD side of the throttle body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoDo1975 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Is it also called the Electronic control throttle assembly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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