rao Posted November 25, 2011 Share Posted November 25, 2011 Subscribed Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 25, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted November 25, 2011 Subscribed F*ckin took you long enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 DAMMIT they were the same price too! Oh well will be fine im sure but that sucks good to know before i picked up 0w-40 for my car. Will continue with t6 thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 the m1 5w-40 is much different than the 5w-30 m1. the 30 is considered an energy conserving blend, the 40 is not. k. welcome back Good to know and thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
authenticamd Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Other than flooring it on onramps, I don't really drive it hard, only have a 5 mile commute to work. They didn't say anything about shearing. So do you floor it on the on ramp to work? Isn't the oil still cold then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted December 3, 2011 Author Share Posted December 3, 2011 Can we kill this thread. Rao subscribed. /end thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stanjk3 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 So do you floor it on the on ramp to work? Isn't the oil still cold then? No, there aren't any on/off ramps on my way to work. Other than leaving my neighborhood, I don't need to floor it on my way to or from work. Not saying I drive like a grandma, but I don't drive like I'm Ken Block either. Friends don't let friends drink cheap beer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boymk123 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 keep in mind, 0w has to be 100% synthetic... 0w20, 0w30, 0w40 wtfever 0w is. M1 0w20, 0w40 are the 2 robust true syn oils from their company. Why? BITOG UOA proved it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 Or IMO go simply with the BEST, Amsoil 0W-30 SSO http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/azo.aspx & Ea oil filters http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/eao.aspx . The proof is in my car, 15k OCI & still running original motor & VF-40 turbo with no shaft play at 174k when last check. Almost 180k now, want from stage1 to stage2 at 174k. In full disclosure, I plan on replacing my stock turbo next spring, early summer. I have 200k on it by then & my waste gate flap valve is not centered. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/waste-gate-172683.html Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 This is good information, now we know the BEST oil that there is. Hopefully this will help a lot of people. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 ^^^You know it IMO:lol::lol: Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob-2 Posted December 3, 2011 Share Posted December 3, 2011 No, there aren't any on/off ramps on my way to work. Other than leaving my neighborhood, I don't need to floor it on my way to or from work. Not saying I drive like a grandma, but I don't drive like I'm Ken Block either. Frankly, unless you're tracking or autox the car you are driving it lightly. There is a difference from driving it hard IE long peroid of time WOT or hanging gears and cold start BS. Beating the shit out of a cold motor is dumb. No oil will save you from gunning it frequently from a cold start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ama0787 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I have 105k miles burn no oil turbo is fine have been stage 2 since I finished break in procedures been using rp 5w30 and oem suby filters very time. I am going to do a OA after I get the results I am probably looking into the m1 ow40 or hammer downs suggestion. Also planning to do the amsoil dual filter set up but I am anxious to,see what they say about the RP I do not like that they have changed recipe but it seems to have done well in my suby even though they seem to be a mainly marketing based company anymore. Then again probaly any proper weight synthetic would have done good with the power level this car is at with approx. 5k oil changes and the way I have drive the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Polo08816 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 The oil keeps breaking down. So yes, your 40 will become a 30, which is enough protection. However it doesn't just 'stop' at 30 and keep breaking down and keep in mind m1 products are always on the lightest side of the rating to begin with. The problem I have with m1 in high heat/stress applications is gets thin fast and you loose the protection. The turbo and 4H motor put different loads on the oil. That said I ran m1 extended performance at 15k intervals in our TL without issue. Sold the car with 140K on it and it burned no oil to speak of. I don't consider 1/2qt in 15K much oil. My other experience is running m1 extended performance at 7K intervals on my S2000. I took out the chain tensioner. A common problem with low oil pressure. I did that in 30K of driving. Friend of mine running redline has 173K on the original chain tensioner and that is after dozens of track days. This is all to say application is key. Since the GTR comes spec'd with M1 0w40 you're probably going to be ok. I'm just not a fan in performance motors. Your Honda Accord, no problem. GTL with high tq, high sheering factors I might consider something else. What makes the GTL different? Half the piston head weight is pressing against the rings which are rubbing the wall. This makes for a high sheering factor against the oil. A thin coat allows the rings to float, as the oil gets thinner you run the risk of extra wear. It wouldn't be instant, it would happen over time. The high amounts of boost at low RPM's may play a factor. I don't know what oil PSI is at 2-3K. This all makes me sound super negative about m1. I'm actually a big m1 Extended Performance fan in i4 and v6 na motors. Cannot get a cheaper long distance oil. But I don't know that is your application. If you want to be sure get blackstone labels to tell you how the oil is doing. Huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 I still have a hard time going with a 0w oil. Like I said earlier, I'm running 10w-30 in my 149,000 + mile engine, that has always used dino oil. It may get Shell Rotella T6 on the next oil change...in hopes of cutting down the burn off of oil that engine has. Wasn't the 0w oils designed for tigher bearing clearances ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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