HAMMER DOWN Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 The big question here is do you want to risk the heads to find out if the bottom end is going to live. If you strip the motor at the first sign of debris in the oil you'll likely save the crank and heads from damage. If you roll the dice you risk the cam bearing surfaces and crank journals being scored beyond rescue for the prize of not having to build the engine. Only the owner can really decide if it's worth the risk. Sent from a device using some software. This reminds me of that old saying, "You can pay a little now or whole lot more later." Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 The issue with the heads is that they don't use cam bearings in the same way that the crank uses bearings. The cam rides metal-on-metal directly against the head with only oil for protection. If turbo debris tears up the crank bearings you can have the crank reground and/or put new bearings in. If the cam is similarly afflicted then you don't have that option, and new heads are $600 each. TBH, if you're going to buy a SB and both heads, you might as well get the LB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02603sec Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 sell the d**ned thing. move on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabin_dweller Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 My 05 xt outback VF40 turbo is at 205K. I have the motor out and when I took the turbo off, I noticed the intake boot was loose and oily. I am rebuilding the motor, due to a bent valve (user error at belt replacement time) and the fact that the motor is out. I am planning to rebuild the turbo, just because. After reading this entire thread, I feel very lucky. There was no screen in the banjo fitting. It must have been removed by the previous owner. Does anyone have experience with Rotomaster? They have a cartridge replacement available at an attractive price. I have not opened up the turbo yet, but with the oil blow by I found, the cartridge assembly seems the best way to go. I am happy with the stock power and reliability. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5784846&cc=1430735&jsn=444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboconcepts Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Not to say you can't do it, but there's a good chance you'll make a mistake and end up at square 1 again. The cartridge needs to be clocked and torqued right, and the actuator needs to be adjusted right -- assuming that the parts you dont' replace are good! Then need to properly prime the cartridge prior to fire-up. More shops than you think can't even install the turbo correctly, let alone replace the cartridge! Best to have your turbo properly rebuilt or exchange for a complete rebuild, AND replace your oiling system for sure! That banjo screen might not have been "removed" if you know what I mean That oily intake is typical for the high mileage, from recirculation. Here's link to our rebuild for this unit, or rebuild service is $425 with 3-day turnaround with all new internals (not incl shipping time). http://turboconcepts.net/cars/subaru-legacy-2-5l-sku-34083/ best of luck My 05 xt outback VF40 turbo is at 205K. I have the motor out and when I took the turbo off, I noticed the intake boot was loose and oily. I am rebuilding the motor, due to a bent valve (user error at belt replacement time) and the fact that the motor is out. I am planning to rebuild the turbo, just because. After reading this entire thread, I feel very lucky. There was no screen in the banjo fitting. It must have been removed by the previous owner. Does anyone have experience with Rotomaster? They have a cartridge replacement available at an attractive price. I have not opened up the turbo yet, but with the oil blow by I found, the cartridge assembly seems the best way to go. I am happy with the stock power and reliability. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5784846&cc=1430735&jsn=444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbikemaster Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I had my turbo go due to clogged filters. I'm about to piece it all back together. I've got a new VF40, and all banjo filters are gone, with the turbo filter being replaced by Infamous Perfomance's Oil Line Kit. I pulled the pan and found this. What is it?!? This was also in the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianEarlSpilner Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 I had my turbo go due to clogged filters. I'm about to piece it all back together. I've got a new VF40, and all banjo filters are gone, with the turbo filter being replaced by Infamous Perfomance's Oil Line Kit. I pulled the pan and found this. What is it?!? Most likely pieces of the old turbo. A lot of times that's what happens when turbos fail. Your best bet is flushing the oil and changing it a couple times back to back to flush all the debris out. Still some particulate could end up ruining the rod bearings. Best of luck, hope it turns out ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted March 28, 2016 Author Share Posted March 28, 2016 I doubt something that size would make it down the turbo oil drain pipe and into the pan. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 Looks like a piece of the windage tray. Look that over. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted March 28, 2016 Share Posted March 28, 2016 (edited) I had my turbo go due to clogged filters. I'm just being curious, how do you know your turbo blew due to clogged filters? Lots-O people blame the banjo filters but I don't think I've read anyone explain how they diagnosed the filter(s) as the root cause. You may not be 100% certain, most of us never really are, but I'd be interested in the circumstances in your particular situation. Edited March 28, 2016 by StkmltS My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbikemaster Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 I doubt something that size would make it down the turbo oil drain pipe and into the pan. It is easily small enough to fit in the turbo drain hose. I checked for that. I'm just being curious, how do you know your turbo blew due to clogged filters? Lots-O people blame the banjo filters but I don't think I've read anyone explain how they diagnosed the filter(s) as the root cause. You may not be 100% certain, most of us never really are, but I'd be interested in the circumstances in your particular situation. I'm certain because I pulled them out and both were clogged solid. No part of the mesh was clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 It is easily small enough to fit in the turbo drain hose. I checked for that. It still doesn't look like any part that belongs inside the turbo though. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 At least not in the oil path. From first glance it looks like it could be part of a vane or something, but if that was the case it'd be pretty much impossible for it to make it into the oil pan - it seem to me that it'd either get stuck in the intercooler or cat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboconcepts Posted March 29, 2016 Share Posted March 29, 2016 Negative on a piece of turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redbikemaster Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Ok. I'll check the tray tomorrow. That would require replacement then, right? And what would cause that to break? I don't these engines as well as I do my other cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted March 31, 2016 Share Posted March 31, 2016 Some aftermarket windage trays break as do stock ones. If not properly installed, i.e., torqued properly, transient vibration can cause the shaped metal to fatigue, crack and break. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qci.trade Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Looking at buying this car below - 2003 legacy gt - 344,000 kms. Drove it the other day, owner had it since brand new - engine seemed to run well. The only thing I am concerned about is the turbo failing. Is 344,000kms too much on the clock to be considering this car and would I be looking at a turbo replacement soon? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks! http://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/465794877.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Looking at buying this car below - 2003 legacy gt - 344,000 kms. Drove it the other day, owner had it since brand new - engine seemed to run well. The only thing I am concerned about is the turbo failing. Is 344,000kms too much on the clock to be considering this car and would I be looking at a turbo replacement soon? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks! http://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/465794877.jpg Thats a lot of kilometers, but if maintenance was done properly it should be fine. Since it's a JDM Legacy 2.0GT you have (I think) a TD04 turbo, which doesn't have the failure history that the VF40/46 do. If the price is right I wouldn't worry too much about it. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qci.trade Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Thanks mate, this car is a New Zealand new model - the owner bought it brand new and did a lot of highway driving to rack up all those kms. Would you think this one has a VF38 turbo instead? Not quite sure what to make of it, i.e. how long the car would go before the turbo decides to give up - that is with a relaxed driving style. Funds are really tight so I can't afford to buy a lower km car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 NZ = JDM. It should be a TD04HLA-19T. Sent from a device using some software. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Ok is yours an auto or manual? To my understanding the manual cars come with the TD04, while the autos have VF38s. The TD04 I think is a more reliable turbo...the VF38 isn't much different from the VF40, I believe. JmP6889928 is the turbo expert around here...maybe shoot him a PM. Does the car have maintenance records? I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboconcepts Posted April 16, 2016 Share Posted April 16, 2016 Yes, the TD04 is definitely more reliable than the VF series, but with that high mileage (... or kilometerage?) the first thing I'd do is change the oil and check everywhere you can for oil solidification, and if it's clean then leave it alone, should be fine. Gunk can end the turbos life fast, so as long as it's clean and running well then it's good, if it ain't broke don't fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qci.trade Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 Thanks for the replies. Yep its a 5sp manual - just really curious as to how long before the turbo gives up the ghost. Its still on its factory turbo, everything else is stock apart from a catalytic converter removal and exhaust upgrade. Just don't know if I should take a chance and purchase it. Would you think that replacing the turbo first thing after purchase would be the best way to go about it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotofan Posted April 17, 2016 Share Posted April 17, 2016 K well it's a manual which means it's got the TD04, which is not a bad turbo. It should be good to go for a long time yet as long as the oil was changed regularly. I put something here like all the cool people, except there's nothing cool to put here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qci.trade Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 K thanks will have a think about it. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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