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looking for some advice.. I blew my turbo and would like to upgrade as I replace it but my car 05 LGT has 115,00 on it. Is it advisable considering the mileage or am I asking for trouble. I was looking at a BNR 16G or 18G. I am currently stage 1 with the exception of a 5EAT "Climber D" valve body mod

 

Lots of people use turbo failure as a reason to do a mild turbo upgrade, so there are lots of threads on this.

 

Nothing wrong with doing it at 115k miles, if (and depending on how those 115k went, this could be a big if) the rest of your powerplant is healthy. A compression test and leak down test are good engine health checks.

 

VF52 or BNR16G is the mildest upgrade. Check this thread:

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/turboi-wiki-twist-178684.html

 

The VF52 or BNR16G can run on stock fueling, though an upgraded fuel pump will help, and you may benefit from injectors.

 

18G definitely needs fuel pump and injector upgrades.

 

You'll need a highflow downpipe, and should switch to a catless uppipe, and you'll need a tune.

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Very helpful thread, seeing as I recently had a turbo failure on my 2006 lgt with 150k. Being a relatively new lgt owner I do have a few questions, my car showed the typical signs of a turbo starting to fail (drinking oil, smoke from the exhaust when laying into it)and finally it started screaming at me one day on my way to work. At that time it also threw the P0011 code. I managed to limp it off the highway (about 4-5 miles total from the time it started screaming) and towed it home. I took the intercooler off to find small metal peices on the turbo side. (Another sign of a blown turbo) I just ordered an oem replacement, and am going to the subaru dealer later in the week to pick up my gaskets. When I purchased the car I went out on a limb and didn't have service records although the carfax showed it was maintained by a dealer. My first oil change I made the switch to synthetic, and that's when I noticed the smoke web laying into it, after talking to a few people and reading a few articles, I assumed it was blowby on the turbo with the newly used synthetic oil, I was drinking oil at roughly 1 qt every 1k miles, after 2-3 oil change periods using synthetic I decided to make the dreaded decision to switch back, although I did switch back to a synthetic blend, and noticed a difference in oil consumption, I'm wondering is that had an effect on a clogging of the oil feed line? As shortly after switching back I threw the P0011 code. I read that it could be dirty oil that could cause this, and had roughly 4k miles on that oil change (using owners maual oil change interval specs)After doing another oil change using the synthetic blend and clearing the code, I went another oil change period before ultimately blowing the turbo, and once again throwing the P0011. I threw the code probably 10 minutes before the turbo started screaming, so my guess is the oil feed line was clogged and that 10 minutes at 80mph on the highway did the turbo in. Like I said the oem replacement is ordered, as well as gaskets. I plan on taking the intake manifold off to clean, as well as the down pipe, as far as the oil feed line goes I plan on making my own as others have using -4an lines with an in line filter. As well as multiple oil changes once everythjng is installed. Now that you have an understanding, does anyone have any preferred methods for cleaning out the intercooler? As I'm sure they're are metal chips somewhere in it? (None shown on the intake side), and also the great heated debate of what oil to use, synthetic or non? I'm not sure if I was drinking oil with the synthetic due to the fact that the turbo was already on it's way out? Has anyone had oil consumption problems using synthetic with a new turbo? Also besides changing oil change intervals to every 3k miles are they're any other suggestions to avoid another tubro failure? Any help, comments, questions or concerns would be greatly appreciated.
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Sorry to hear. Long and short of it is that you probably have debris in your oil system as well as a clogged banjo bolt filter. You are lucky your engine is still running well (?) and can be questionable from here on out. What is highly suggested after a turbo failure is to replace the entire oil cooler, take off the oil pan and clean it out as thoroughly as you can (it's difficult), and do a few oil changes in quick succession to get the last of the debris out of the oil system.

 

As for the parts of the compressor in your intercooler, simply make sure to get it all out. If questionable you can pick up a good, used, stock intercooler for cheap.

 

Synthetic does these cars good. I'd pick up one that has more detergents in it, which might help condition the seals. I can't tell you which one though. I've run Mobile1 5W-30 over the last 6 years with 3,000 mile interval changes, with no oil consumption what so ever, but am told that Mobile1 is thinner than others. In your case I'd be more concerned about the oil filter itself. What are you using? Legacy's oil pump is very high flowing, over 12 gallons at 5,000 RPM and Subaru specs an oil filter that has a bypass of over 20 PSI in it. If you have one with less, you could be sending crud into your engine that the right filter would catch.

 

Good luck.

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Sorry to hear. Long and short of it is that you probably have debris in your oil system as well as a clogged banjo bolt filter. You are lucky your engine is still running well (?) and can be questionable from here on out. What is highly suggested after a turbo failure is to replace the entire oil cooler, take off the oil pan and clean it out as thoroughly as you can (it's difficult), and do a few oil changes in quick succession to get the last of the debris out of the oil system.

 

As for the parts of the compressor in your intercooler, simply make sure to get it all out. If questionable you can pick up a good, used, stock intercooler for cheap.

 

Synthetic does these cars good. I'd pick up one that has more detergents in it, which might help condition the seals. I can't tell you which one though. I've run Mobile1 5W-30 over the last 6 years with 3,000 mile interval changes, with no oil consumption what so ever, but am told that Mobile1 is thinner than others. In your case I'd be more concerned about the oil filter itself. What are you using? Legacy's oil pump is very high flowing, over 12 gallons at 5,000 RPM and Subaru specs an oil filter that has a bypass of over 20 PSI in it. If you have one with less, you could be sending crud into your engine that the right filter would catch.

 

Good luck.

 

Used oil analyses show that mobil 1 is one of the worst oils possible for our car.

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Hmm, I may want to look into dropping that oil pan, may be worth it in the long run, and I didn't know about that oil pump, very interesting and I'm deff gonna have to look into it. I've used fram but I'm gonna look into switching too a wix, I believe they are the only metal cartridge filter still out there, it seems every other company went paper, but I will deff look into they're flow rate, Mobil one was the synthetic that I switched too and had the crazy oil consumption, but like I said the seals may have already been on they're way out. I will deffinately pick up a new oil cooler, and I'm gonna cut open the old oil filter just too see if it grabbed anything, thanks for the help! And lingling any chance you have a link to that used oil analysis?
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So last week I joined the band wagon and had my oe VF40 grenade on me. As far as I know it was the original, I am the second owner purchased with 110K, previous owner had all maintanence records and it was at the dealer every 4k. I have also been on top of my maintanence every 4k. I am currently at 136K when it let go. I have decided to go with the vf52, will the replacing my oil cooler, dropping the pan to clean out any foreign material than can be seen, and getting the IP&T oil line kit. I then will be running a lot of oil through the engine and doing an engine oil flush. I hope it all goes well, and wish me luck that the engine will be ok.

 

Very similar to my details. I am going back with a BNR 16G, catless up pipe, Invidia down pipe, AVO intake, lots of new hoses (amazing how many were rock hard), IPT oil supply. Pulled banjo bolt filters. New gauges & of course tune thereafter, but not upgrtading fuel pump or injectors for a while - if it all holds.

 

Just dropped pan and found gold sheen...not sand, but color. Shop recommends running oil through & change at 1-200 miles several times. I would feel a LOT better about a flush but I don't know of any shop that does an oil flush, only Tranny and coolant. Who does oil flushes?

 

I don't want to spend $4000 now and have to spend another $4-$5000 on a new shortblock, head work and turbo & do it all over again. The cars not worth that much.

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If you have material deposition in your oil pan, then you have it in your oil cooler too and and there's no way to get that out. Replace it.

 

P/N 21311AA051 - cooler

P/N 21370KA001 - O-ring

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Super helpful thread...just blew the turbo on my 06 spec B with 140k on it a couple days ago. shop says might be best to stick with OE instead of running into trouble with aftermarket not fitting or being more of a pain. Drove it about 15-20 miles as I was in the middle of nowhere before parking so I'm worried about the amount of debris that might be in the system. How far in front and behind the turbo should I be digging for problems before I replace the turbo? Its certainly not the most affordable problem for me right now, but I want this thing to run to 200k so I'm trying to fix what makes the most sense for the long run. She's just too damn perrrdy.
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You can do a search on my name and read several threads I have started since Christmas that detail what I have gone through. They will show what components I added - that you may not want to - but also details what I have done, searched for, replaced and am doing as it directly relates to the oil system.

VERY basically: Drop oil pan and inspect to decide next course. Read the part about "clean, color, sand, chunks = what to do next".

 

I found color - no visible size specs. I am replacing the oil cooler, pulled both banjo bolts and removed the filters and am upgrading to an IPT filtered oil supply line. Since I don't know of any shop that actually does oil flushing - and in my mind of the OCVS are not operating at idle, it may not be optimum even if I could - I intend to do back to back to back oil changes very quickly, like 50 miles each.

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This thread is terrifying, given the amount of money I have already put into keeping this car on the road. Happily, no turbo issues to speak of. What did Subaru recommend regarding the type/weight of oil to prevent turbo issues? Edited by SLegacy99
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Well I finally found some time to work on the car, got the intake plenum off (what a nightmare) only to find no metal shavings in it thank god, I thought for sure I was going too. With that being said I'm hoping I won't have any engine trouble down the road, still gonna drop the pan and have a look around. Does anyone suggest replacing the oil pump on these things? I'm changing the oil cooler as it is. I also decided that I'm gonna run amsoil 0w-30 seeing as I live in the northeast and have very ranging temperatures, opinions?
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I have been reading about this Turbo Banjo Bolt Oil Filter Screenand am wondering if this still applies to my 2012 Legacy GT.

 

Any other advice for maintaining my car. I have been doing synthetic oil changes every 3,000 miles and have 30000 miles. The dealer has a whole list of things that should be done at 30k but none seem necessary.

 

My only concern would be the Turbo Banjo Bolt Oil Filter Screen.

 

Thanks!

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I have been reading about this Turbo Banjo Bolt Oil Filter Screenand am wondering if this still applies to my 2012 Legacy GT.

 

No banjo bolt filter.

 

3k oil changes are more than sufficient. 3,750 is more common if using one of the good oils (Rotella or Motul).

 

At 30k there are a number of additional things you should do like brake fluid, trans fluid and diff fluid. Here's a great vendor that has a 30k service. It's too far for you but should give you an idea of what should be done and prices. http://azpinstalls.com/web/index.php/services/maintenance/major-services/32-30k-service

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Extremely useful and scary thread.

I just brought a 2006 GT from NY to MN and my way turbo started to whine, so I want to replace it before i get all the scary scenarios. I am new to subarus and even though I knew about the turbo dangers, the car was extremely well maintained :-(

My Question. Does anyone install rebuild VF40s?

There a couple of places where I can send my turbo to be rebuild.

Anyone know about reputable places?

I found one place in IL:

http://pretuning.com/category/turbo-services/

 

I am really strapped for money after just buying it and OEM turbos are very expensive.

 

Another question: what is a good tread for turbo replacement steps?

Thanks

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Extremely useful and scary thread.

I just brought a 2006 GT from NY to MN and my way turbo started to whine, so I want to replace it before i get all the scary scenarios. I am new to subarus and even though I knew about the turbo dangers, the car was extremely well maintained :-(

My Question. Does anyone install rebuild VF40s?

There a couple of places where I can send my turbo to be rebuild.

Anyone know about reputable places?

I found one place in IL:

http://pretuning.com/category/turbo-services/

 

I am really strapped for money after just buying it and OEM turbos are very expensive.

 

Another question: what is a good tread for turbo replacement steps?

Thanks

 

http://6starspeed.com/

 

These guys are reputable and know their stuff.

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  • 3 weeks later...
I got the dreaded P0011 code 2 nights ago. Under recommendation I ran a bit of ATF with my oil just before changing it. I changed the oil and looked through it to find any metal or debris. I found nothing, and after the oil change the car sounds like the day I got it last year. I need to do banjo bolts, hopefully I can get them done today
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