_karu_ Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 ^Thanks! That was my suspicion as well. If I can't keep up with the intake of the new fluid, that could potentially damage the pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 2, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 2, 2013 ^Thanks! That was my suspicion as well. If I can't keep up with the intake of the new fluid, that could potentially damage the pump. Yeah, ask me how I know you can't keep up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_karu_ Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Oh no. Don't tell me you got your pump seized one time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted April 2, 2013 I Donated Share Posted April 2, 2013 Oh no. Don't tell me you got your pump seized one time. Nope, just started to do it with the car on and stopped about two seconds later. So far it's still working lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 There is a way to do it with the engine running, but I believe you need to disconnect line going to rack, which means you have to unbolt some other stuff. and have a tube and something to catch fluid, I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_karu_ Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 ^Gotcha. I believe that's the "proper" way to do it per technical manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Tbh after doing this method a couple times, its very easy, you basically need a 12mm socket, ratchet, screwdriver and pliers or man grip. I recommend another set of hands to watch reservoir or turn steering wheel so you can pretty much stand in one spot and not have to move back and forth. All you do is: Top off and just make sure reservoir stays full, it disappears in a flash. spin steering pump turn steering wheel top off spin steering pump turn steering wheel top off so basically its those 3 things, doesnt get much simpler than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmmrdwn Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 You guys definitely describe the more thorough way to do the job. I just buy use a small pump (like from a handsoap container) and pump the reservior empty into a jug and then refill with clean fluid. I then drive the car a day and repeat. After a couple times the fluid is completely clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted April 4, 2013 Share Posted April 4, 2013 ^Any comment on the method I described above? Is it a good idea or not? I've never done this before and I have no clue what would happen if I do it the way I described it above. Thats the most often used method at shops. Have done it plenty of times and works like a charm. You usually only have to turn the wheel to one direction and hold it there while the procedure is done. Suck up fluid in resorvior, put new fluid, direct return line to an empty container, turn wheel to right/left (cant remember), plug return on resorvior, be ready to pour fluid in at the rate it leaves the resorvior/fills empty bottle. You have to be pretty accurate when pouring the fluid and the guy at the key needs to be ready to switch it off quick before you make a mess or run out of fluid in the bottle cos you poured too slow or ran out. In my mind hand cranking allowd fluids to mix too much compared to pumping at idle. Itll either take too long or waste a lot of fluid in the process ... aint nobody got time fo dat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_karu_ Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I found out that my local Subaru dealer doesn't use OEM P/S fluid for Power Steering Fluid Exchange service. They use Carquest P/S fluid as you can see below: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1589&pictureid=8184 It's interesting that the color of the fluid is translucent, not red like regular ATF fluid. The part guy at the dealer says that they prefer Carquest's fluid because, "It's less frothy than other brand..." Has anybody here use Subaru's ATF-HP fluid for Power Steering? http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1609&pictureid=8183 It's noted on the label that it's safe to use for Power Steering fluid. I'm thinking of "flushing" the old fluid with the Carquest fluid and then finish the job with Subaru's ATF-HP. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 Did mine today. Two tips. First when you loosen the spring clamp on the return hose, bring it up onto the hard finned line, not down the short rubber hose. It makes it a lot easier to take the hard line out and put back. Second have some one turn the wheel for you, as stated above. This will allow you to use your left hand to put a finger over the short open return hose. You can now use your right hand to turn the PS pump or add more fluid to the reservoir as needed. I took a Gatorade quart bottle and placed it under the hard line against the strut tower and it stayed in place the whole time. Easy to see the fluid with a clear bottle. All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ace99635 Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 I just changed out my rack and pinion after my wife curbed it and bent the tire rod, so this method was similar to what I did. instead of removing the belt I cranked my ignition and turned it back off every ~5 seconds. using an old glass jar to collect the old stuff that was left and filling the reservoir after. that aluminum return line has about 2 inches seated into the rubber so it took quite awhile to work free. as someone said it's best to pull the hose clamp up onto the aluminum because of that. Now my power steering has some whine but I hope it works the air out and goes away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doccrowley Posted November 23, 2013 Share Posted November 23, 2013 Bump for my needs tomorrow afternoon when I do this for the first time @ 111,111 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 hate to bump an old thread but can anyone lend some tips on disconnecting the return hose from the res. Specifically where are you disconnecting? I tried pre and post the metal finned part, and eventually..unfortunately..ended up busting the plastic nipple on the res itself because I was applying so much force to get the hose off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 If the nipple is busted I would imagine you need a new one? At that point it should be very easy to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 If the nipple is busted I would imagine you need a new one? At that point it should be very easy to remove lol yes very easy to remove now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 car-part.com to find one from a junkyard for cheap if you have not replaced it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outahere Posted December 20, 2013 Share Posted December 20, 2013 Since the car was new, I have been changing the PS fluid in the reservoir only, every time I do my regular oil change. Siphon out the old oil, add fresh oil. Its like doing a full change, but over an extended period of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 car-part.com to find one from a junkyard for cheap if you have not replaced it. Thanks. Have already replaced with a dealer part (was too late finding out there's a guy on here with junkyards just south of me) Unfortunately the reman pump I swapped in is noisy, and jittery..ugh. Idk if I just need to keep driving it like a break in period or if it should just be buttery smooth from the beginning. Fluid level, belt and belt tension look perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted December 23, 2013 I Donated Share Posted December 23, 2013 Thanks. Have already replaced with a dealer part (was too late finding out there's a guy on here with junkyards just south of me) Unfortunately the reman pump I swapped in is noisy, and jittery..ugh. Idk if I just need to keep driving it like a break in period or if it should just be buttery smooth from the beginning. Fluid level, belt and belt tension look perfect. Probably have some bubbles in there somewhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Probably have some bubbles in there somewhere Would that also cause a noisy pump? It's much noisier than my original before it went south. Also, for fluid I'm just using Prestone PS fluid. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05LGTLtd Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 ATF is the spec fluid... All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted December 27, 2013 Share Posted December 27, 2013 You guys definitely describe the more thorough way to do the job. I just buy use a small pump (like from a handsoap container) and pump the reservior empty into a jug and then refill with clean fluid. I then drive the car a day and repeat. After a couple times the fluid is completely clean. Is there any downside to doing it this way, versus the posted method that involves jacking the car up? I get that it would have to be done multiple times to get everything out of the system, but for somebody who doesn't have room to work on their car at their own place (I have to go ~40 minutes one-way to my mom's house), this seems like a very easy option. And, instead of doing it for a couple consecutive days, couldn't I just go to an empty parking lot, pump out, refill, do some slow figure 8s, then repeat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 ATF is the spec fluid... Yeah I noticed. I had autozone get me another reman pump. Swapped it in last night, used this method to drain out all the old (and prestone) fluids, and used oem ATF. This pump is better, it's nearly as quiet as my original pump but it is still jittery. At a dead stop, it's loud and sounds like its sort of struggling but I think that may be a result of whatever is causing the jittering. Up on jack stands we did 4 or 5 lock to locks. drove it around for 15 minutes and went to a parking lot and did some slow figure eights so I could get more full lock turns in. still feels the same jittery. sorry to keep dragging this on, not sure what i'm doing wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted December 28, 2013 Share Posted December 28, 2013 ^Did you make sure that the wired pressure switch connection is back together solid on the top of the PS Pump? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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