chutrain Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Great write-up. May tackle this when I get home from work today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 This write up is amazing. Had the MC brace on in 40 minutes with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 With or without taking the TMIC off - or are you FMIC? - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Without taking the TMIC off, although I did want to rip all of the fuel lines off at one point... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 The only time consuming thing was just bending the cable wiring brace considering I had to find a way to hold it and hit it at the same time without any type of vice. I ended up using a lug nut wrench to hold it and and pounded it with the higher handle for the hydraulic jack lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Installation isn't difficult as far as what needs to be done, but working in very tight spaces with big mitts left 'em with lots of scrapes from fingers to wrists. I mounted the wiring harness brace on top of the MCB as suggested by Matt from Grimmspeed and everything lined up perfectly. One thing, I had two aluminum spacers included in the hardware packet that I did not see used in either SBT's walk-through or mentioned in Grimmspeed's installation instructions. Only thing I can think of is that they are supposed to be used as noted below... http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b380/TRS60586/Misc%20Legacy/brake_brace_subaru_LGT_150_3_annotated.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 Thanks for mentioning that. I actually put them in there initially, but then it became a royal PITB to line everything, without the spacers "dropping out"with the small amount of space that is available to work on, so left them off. Interesting that putting the cable wiring brace on the inside of the MCB worked. Doing this on mine resulted in the MCB face being offset too much for comfort for me and too close to the engine as a result, so fixed it so that it would fit without issue (and as OEM designed) to fit against the strut tower, with the MCB on top of the wiring brace. I used 14 mil nitril gloves that went over my wrists (I have XL hands) and that kept most of the skin scratches and scrapes to a minimum. Still some on the upper forearm from reaching around and working the firewall side bolts in, but otherwise okay. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 ^+1 I saw the spacers AFTER I bolted everything together and said -_- EFF THAT. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimblaz Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Same thing here. Spacers...... NAH. hahaha This brace is pretty dang awesome. Instant gratification from this guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 Our installation instructions will also mention that you're free to remove the bracket all-together and use a ziptie to secure the wiring harness (as is done on some of our other models). I dunno if it's just me, but why would you do it any other way? Easy, quick, effective, and secure. Besides, my obxt is a racecar and I prefer the weight savings whenever I can Seriously though, how tight are you guys making the bolt with the red plunger attached? In other words, how much "preload" are you putting on the brake MC and MCB? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Seriously though, how tight are you guys making the bolt with the red plunger attached? In other words, how much "preload" are you putting on the brake MC and MCB?Grimmspeed's instructions say "When the pressure cup makes contact with the master cylinder, tighten the nut an additional 1/2 to 1 turn." I know I went further than that...maybe a couple turns. I just went until it felt "right". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subawang Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Just wanted to post my install notes and also very brief review. My install was slightly different than the OP, maybe because I have an MY07. It pretty much followed the install for STI's on Grimmspeed's website. I didn't have the elaborate fuel pressure regulator bracket the OP does, mine is just a plastic clip on bracket which hold the three fuel lines. It does clip to the same two piece bracket which also holds the wiring harness. As for the other two mounting points, I found both covered with black circle stickers. I was relieved when I removed the stickers to find two tapped holes (whew). Threading the bolts through these whole was the trickiest part of the install. What I did was unbolted the intercooler bracket from the intercooler, and loosen the two bolts mounting it to the manifold. After pushing the bracket out of the way, I was able to attack the two bolt from the side. Even still, it was a major PITA. I didn't end up reusing the two piece factory bracket. I didn't want to do the hammer smash the OP did, and I figured this is exactly what the two spacers are for. You are supposed to mount first the two bracket layers the same way you disassembled it. Next goes the two spacers. This way you wouldn't need to smash the bracket flat. But how are you supposed to thread the two bolts through this stack? I didn't even attempt it. I simple zip-tied the plastic fuel lines bracket to a conveniently located tab on the fuse box. I haven't yet bother to zip-tie the wiring harness to anything, but right above where the bracket use to connect, is an unused hole on the MCB. I'll probably end up using that. Overall install time was still around 1.5 hours. If you haven't yet attempted the install, make sure to have a magnetic pickup handy. Threading the two bolts closest to the firewall requires patience, and you'll probably end up dropping the bolts at least once. Onto the review, if you didn't notice my comments in the original GI thread, I was skeptical. I have two complaints with the brake system; the first is the initial dead travel and the second is the amount of stroke needed to threshold brake making heel-toe a little difficult at the track. I didn't think the MCB would help with the initial dead travel, and only maybe with the feel when braking at the track. But since I'm a track junkie, I was ok if the benefit was only seen on track. Anyways, much of the dead travel is now gone. The pedals firms up at the top portion of travel, and the brake grab almost at the top of the stroke. Overall, the stroke is also firmed up a bit, but I'll have to wait for my next track event to see how it feels when I really get on it repeatably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 subawang - like you I really dis-appreciated the long, initial dead travel, but after 100K+ miles, I've gotten used to it. Typically, when I need to brake, I just execute it with the dead travel "factored-in". Post MCB install though, also like you, I find the pedal to be "firmed-up" at the top portion of the stroke, so much so that I've bounced my passengers off their seat belts on several recent occasions, when I'd respond typically hard on the brake pedal to get through the initial dead area, only to find that now the brakes are right there at the top, and stopping force application is just that much more immediate. FWIW - I tried the spacers behind the MCB and it so misaligned the MCB-to-MC faces that I took them out and went back to the cable brace behind setup. The spacers were much thicker than the cable brace, even before modding. 2nd FWIW - I also think using a shop/garage vise with a smooth jaw would be equally as effective as a hammer to de-wing the cable brace. As is customary in these things though... YMMV. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Came home yesterday to a box sitting on my doorstep. What a pleasant welcome home. Going to install it tomorrow, thanks for the writeup! Can't wait to get this in! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 "The $75 piece that made a $200 difference." I am impressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 Installed! Initial impressions are good: pedal is firmed up, appears there is less give. Haven't had a chance to drive the car hard yet, but I went around the block and stomped it a bit. Definitely noticeable improvement. Installation was a pain in the ass. I have tiny hands, and I had a really hard time. Don't think the OP emphasized enough how much of a pain it is reaching into those spaces! I took a few pictures. A few important notes regarding installation: 1) I have no idea what those spacers are for. They do NOT go into that gap because they do absolutely nothing in the gap. There is free play, so I don't see why you'd want to put them there. I had originally thought that there was a way to feed the cable bracket (the one the OP pounded flat) into that gap, and you fill up the remaining space with the spacers, but the bracket does not fit. Those spacers are useless, unless I'm missing something. 2) I did NOT pound the bracket flat. I mounted the MCB directly to the tower, and put the bracket on top of it. Fitment appeared fine. The cup isn't perfectly centered on the MC but you can see it's just fine in the picture. 3) Did I mention that the spaces you have to work in are really, really tiny? I did? Well, let me mention it again. IT IS A PAIN REACHING IN THERE!! Lots of scrapes and scratches on my arm. 4) Important: The FPR bracket contacted the fuse box lid. You can see in the pictures it's actually touching it. I ended up bending the bracket. I believe that the OP did not have this problem because he placed the MCB OVER the lower cable bracket that he pounded flat, which spaced out things a bit. It's also possible that my bracket is warped. In either case, I bent it a little bit so it was no longer making contact. BUT you can see from the video that if I put some force into it, it can still brush up against it. Not a big deal, it's just a lid... But still, I'm going to keep an eye on it! Also, in the pictures, there's a tiny little box I mounted to the lower mounting bolt. That's my boost sender unit, so you might not have one. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKIvnRGZ3Ng]Grimmspeed MCB installed - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortal2None Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 Thanks to everyone who has posted and to SBT for the guide! I am doing this now! Can't wait to feel the difference and see how much this setup complements Brembo's with SS lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortal2None Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I think the spacers go between the FPR assembly and the GS brace so the FPR assembly can "wiggle" on the rubber bushings. If you don't use them the FPR assembly hits the brace and may cause issues in the future. So I put them below the rubber grommets then put the two OEM bolts through them and into the GS brace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 ^^^ Would be nice if GrimmSpeed chimed in and told us where they are meant to go, just as an FYI. Otherwise, I can only echo the comments from everybody that's already installed it and say that it makes a very noticeable improvement in brake pedal feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 I'm going to look again and see if those spacers belong anywhere. Maybe they're supposed to be installed somewhere which will prevent the FPR bracket from hitting my fuse box lid. Also, with regards to how much you should tighten the cup, NOT TOO MUCH. You do NOT need to tighten it down more than about a turn. Once the cup is tight up against the MC, tightening it more will not do anything other than push your MC inwards. It will NOT firm up the pedal anymore. Even with the MCB installed, the ENTIRE assembly still flexes a very, very tiny bit when someone stomps on the pedal very hard. There is nothing you can do to prevent that from happening, so don't go tightening that cup screw, it won't help. edit: Took a closer look today, the FPR bracket is definitely way too close to the fuse box lid. I think the spacers might help... going to try putting them under the rubber grommets for the FPR bracket and see if it makes it clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted September 5, 2011 Share Posted September 5, 2011 Grimmspeed's instructions say "When the pressure cup makes contact with the master cylinder, tighten the nut an additional 1/2 to 1 turn." I know I went further than that...maybe a couple turns. I just went until it felt "right". +1 I tightened mine....quite a bit. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortal2None Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Fitment was spot on! What a great improvement in the initial pedal feel and hard braking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimmSpeed Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 I think the spacers go between the FPR assembly and the GS brace so the FPR assembly can "wiggle" on the rubber bushings. If you don't use them the FPR assembly hits the brace and may cause issues in the future. So I put them below the rubber grommets then put the two OEM bolts through them and into the GS brace. ^^^ Would be nice if GrimmSpeed chimed in and told us where they are meant to go, just as an FYI. I'm going to look again and see if those spacers belong anywhere. Maybe they're supposed to be installed somewhere which will prevent the FPR bracket from hitting my fuse box lid. edit: Took a closer look today, the FPR bracket is definitely way too close to the fuse box lid. I think the spacers might help... going to try putting them under the rubber grommets for the FPR bracket and see if it makes it clear. We apologize for the confusion here guys. The correct install guide should be posted this morning at some point, where you'll see that you're all correct. The spacers are provided to sit between the FPR assembly and our brace. On some cars, you'll notice that there isn't a lot of clearance between the assembly 'shield' and the brace, so these provide that clearance when needed. Glad you're all seeing excellent results. It is a bit tight in there, but I've found that a combination of a 1/4in 10mm drive deep-well socket, regular socket and extension can make it much easier. Try using a bit of masking tape to tape the bolts to the socket before reaching down there and you'll save yourself some time hunting for dropped fasteners! Matt Engineering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Thanks, Matt! I installed the two spacers today underneath the rubber grommets. Things to note: 1) I can no longer mount my boost sender unit there using the stock bolts. They're too short, doh! I went back to a zip tie. 2) It seemed to help with the clearance somewhat, but still appears to be too close to the lid. Perhaps my FPR bracket is warped. I think I'm going to have to bend the lower section (near the bolt hole) a bit using vice grips or something. The occasional rubbing that I might see shouldn't be a big deal since the whole FPR bracket is on rubber grommets, so there won't be a lot of force exerted on the lid. No one else has this particular problem?? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNLkxlw94cM]Grimmspeed MCB installed, part 2 - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimmSpeed Posted September 6, 2011 Share Posted September 6, 2011 Thanks for the feedback and for the video. We don't expect that you'll have a problem with that vibration/wear on the lid, but keep an eye on it and let us know if you think it's hitting. As for the bolt length, if you'd like to remount your boost sender there after the spacer installation, you should have no trouble removing one of the bolts and finding a longer replacement at a hardware store. If you do, let me know and I can help you source one! Matt Engineering Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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