JimyJoeBob Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 also I have a bad ABS sensor back there. do I just need to buy a new abs part like #14 I believe in the second picture? Or do I need anything else as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Just make sure that the replacement part that you buy is OEM. The ABS sender is built into the hub on the 2005+ Legacys. Why do you think you need a new sensor? If the current hub is bad, that may be throwing off your ABS connection. Just a thought. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 And there's a different sensor for each side (RT and LT), so make sure you get the right one when you order. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimyJoeBob Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 my abs light is on and it shows the Err 55 on the trip display. last time at the dealer they said something about it, I'll see if the abs is fixed when i replace the hub assembly. if not i'll go from there and the hub assembly i bought is made by timken, not sure if that means anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Not sure on the hub assembly. Timken has been a major player in the bearing market for a long time, so it's possible that they are also in the hub business now too. Unless you're reading Timken on the side of the bearings in the hub assembly. Check to make sure that your sensor isn't disconnected. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongHiway Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I need to replace my rear right bearing so I bought a hub assembly online a little bit ago. Do I need anything else before I replace it? Like any hardware or just use the existing stuff? It's under warranty, right? I assume you have less than 100 K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goneskiian Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 It's under warranty, right? I assume you have less than 100 K miles. Not all '06's had the warranty extended. Check the TSB I linked above for the '06 VIN ranges that are covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimyJoeBob Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I'm over 100k anyway, a lot of highway driving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sumfoo1 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Should i get OEM Replacements or Timken or autozone brand... I'm wondering if Timken is the OE bearing. The only reason i'm asking is i can get timken (which is more expensive but i don't have to have it shipped so its cheaper) and then the AZ bearing is under $100 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Should i get OEM Replacements or Timken or autozone brand... I'm wondering if Timken is the OE bearing. The only reason i'm asking is i can get timken (which is more expensive but i don't have to have it shipped so its cheaper) and then the AZ bearing is under $100 If you can get the Hub with the Timken bearing for that price, I'd go that way. I think most just use any OEM replacement. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Just make sure that any AM replacement is a direct replacement for the OEM one- i.e., embedded ABS sender is included. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 A little late to the party here, but I thought I'd pose this. What the hell, right? Just had my tires replaced about 2 weeks ago, and last weekend on my way back from the coast, about a 200 mile trip I noticed some roaring noise coming from the drivetrain. Kind of a "wub-wub-wub-wub" that increases w/ speed. Whatever it is, it's in the wheels/tires/bearings that much I've determined. I've run these tires before (3rd set) and don't recall this issue with the previous ones when they were new. It reminds me of a 4x4 running Swampers only more subdued. It also seemed like the noise went away when turning. I can't recall if it goes quiet when turning both directions or just in one direction. Fortunately I'm still under the TSB timeline and even if I wasn't I've got the Gold extended so I should be good to go. That said, before I took it to the dealer and had them do their diagnosis I thought I'd see if I could get a general concensus here. Wheelbearings or no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimyJoeBob Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 my rear passenger bearing is still bad but the noise goes away when turning right since the weight is shifted to the left side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 Just talked to the dealer and my notion of a bad bearing was correct. They're replacing the right front I believe he said. I'll know more when I go pick it up. Fortunately they'll have it done by close of business so we'll have the car for the weekend. The SAS plan will cover it all which is nice, sans deductible of course... but it could've been worse I suppose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken S Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Out of curiosity, would dealers deny the warranty replacement if one was running aftermarket wheels? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted July 16, 2011 Author Share Posted July 16, 2011 Turns out if was mt passenger side front wheel bearing! The part was ordered and I'll be going back in to have it replaced next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 Out of curiosity, would dealers deny the warranty replacement if one was running aftermarket wheels? I certainly wouldn't think so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 Is our replacement an entirely new hub or can just the bearing be replaced? I was told they can do just my bearing, but I thought I remember hearing our cars need the entire hub replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 18, 2011 Share Posted July 18, 2011 It's quicker to change out the hub. The bearing is replaceable but it takes longer. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted July 18, 2011 Author Share Posted July 18, 2011 It's quicker to change out the hub. The bearing is replaceable but it takes longer. Ah gotcha. The place that's doing mine said they're doing just the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 Seems to me they're pressed in, or the race is anyway. I can't recall, but if memory serves I think that's why everyone goes straight to just replacing the hub. I'll have to search it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 Seems to me they're pressed in, or the race is anyway. I can't recall, but if memory serves I think that's why everyone goes straight to just replacing the hub. I'll have to search it. I believe they are pressed in as well. My shop said they're still doing just the bearing though. Should I be concerned? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I wouldn't be. The bearing alone is going to be much cheaper than the whole hub assy. but the reason everyone gets the whole assy. when they're doing a DIY job in their garage is because no one has the press to do just the bearing. If the hub is in otherwise good shape (and I can't think of why it wouldn't be) you should be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS5689 Posted July 19, 2011 Author Share Posted July 19, 2011 I wouldn't be. The bearing alone is going to be much cheaper than the whole hub assy. but the reason everyone gets the whole assy. when they're doing a DIY job in their garage is because no one has the press to do just the bearing. If the hub is in otherwise good shape (and I can't think of why it wouldn't be) you should be good to go. Excellent. I took it to a very reputable independent Subaru shop that has done work for me in the past. I'm glad they're taking the less expensive route instead of hosing me on parts ! I'm having my super firm break-your-ass Perrin solid LCA bushings taken out at the same time. I'm sure they contributed to the demise of my bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 I believe they are pressed in as well. My shop said they're still doing just the bearing though. Should I be concerned? No, that is how the were replaced in the "good old days". I can remember changing axle bearings on my 1970 Duster 340 using the press in the auto hobby shop at George AFB. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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