motorbykemike Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 so you used a 3fittyz kit but you also have a 05-07 kit ? i assume it's not made up of the same parts . curious as to the differences in the "action" between the 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbykemike Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 did you drill ? add any more clutches ? i would assume that more clutches = an increase in clamping area might require more fluid volume to shift at the same "speed" as less clutches . ran into that on a 700r4 behind a twin turbo 415 sbc (in an xjs) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 The 350Z kit contents are and should be identical to the 5eat kit contents, because they are almost identical valve bodies in function (except obvious things that are not important for a shift kit, such as center diff clutch control, and not so obvious things that can be worked around, such as a different accumulator setup). The magic is in the drilling. I did not drill this time because I wanted to experience what it was like to have a non-drilled TransGo kitted valve body. When you look at these valve bodies and the 350Z instructions, it should give you a hint as to the impact of it. TransGo has some really cool tricks with their custom bored out valves for 3 different clutch packs. I am adding more clutches soon, but not yet. I realize I will have to work around this with my own R&D, but that won't be a problem. i would assume that more clutches = an increase in clamping area might require more fluid volume to shift at the same "speed" as less clutches . ran into that on a 700r4 behind a twin turbo 415 sbc (in an xjs) You are correct in that it will require more piston pressure with more clutches to achieve the same per-clutch grip as before, but also consider that you will have more surface area using less pressure per clutch with existing pressure. I wish I could calculate it, but I really don't see the point as I'm going to have plenty of grip. IPT's trick was to add clutches, which I suspect is why their built 5eats with their mediocre valve body mod were able to handle higher loads than without. In short, adding clutches appears to be a net positive without changing line pressure. Do both, and you're solid. Swap out the center diff planet bearings with solid bushings, and you are in serious business. Notice I never mentioned the torque converter [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 car has some weird intermittent part throttle , light-mid load stumble/surging thing goin on , it goes away w/ more or less throttle input. i have a similar feeling, and my own theorizing is leading me to blame the drive-by-wire throttle system. i've been using manual mode almost exclusively lately, much more than the past. when the car should be engine braking, i believe the injectors are supposed to kick off and the car wont put any fuel in. i think with the very light pedal the car gets stuck between trying to engine brake (so no injector pressure) and trying to maintain low level throttle. however, i havent logged to test this, just theorizing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 i've been using manual mode almost exclusively lately, much more than the past. when the car should be engine braking, i believe the injectors are supposed to kick off and the car wont put any fuel in. This may explain something I occasionally notice. I've also taken to driving most of the time in what I think is Sport (what's the difference between Manual and Sport?). There are times when I start to accelerate more and the car acts almost like it has shifted up but I didn't shift it and I'm below 3k on the tach so I don't think it's the turbo. Maybe it's the injectors kicking in after being off for short stretch of low throttle or coasting/engine braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbykemike Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 This may explain something I occasionally notice. I've also taken to driving most of the time in what I think is Sport (what's the difference between Manual and Sport?). There are times when I start to accelerate more and the car acts almost like it has shifted up but I didn't shift it and I'm below 3k on the tach so I don't think it's the turbo. Maybe it's the injectors kicking in after being off for short stretch of low throttle or coasting/engine braking. that may be the t/c locking/unlocking sport raises upshift/downshift point compared to "d" manual , when you use the buttons or shifter & the gear is indicated on dash , raises line pressure i like the way sport keeps the trans from being so eager to get into 5th or stay there at such low rpm when i want to roll on the throttle just a little bit we should meet again so you can drive this car again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbykemike Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 i have a similar feeling, and my own theorizing is leading me to blame the drive-by-wire throttle system. i've been using manual mode almost exclusively lately, much more than the past. when the car should be engine braking, i believe the injectors are supposed to kick off and the car wont put any fuel in. i think with the very light pedal the car gets stuck between trying to engine brake (so no injector pressure) and trying to maintain low level throttle. however, i havent logged to test this, just theorizing. i wonder if you are correct about the inj shutting down during eng brk on the race bikes w/ kit or high dollar aftermarket ecm's you can do that as well as control how much the throttle plates stay open , all of this in each induvidual gear , to tune the engine braking to riders desires . these features in combination w/ different slipper clutch settings can actually be made to have the bike setup nearly no engine braking at all . almost less than a 2 stroke gp bike & thats like 1% may car does this no matter what trans "mode" you are in , easiest to "get it to do" if climbing a slight grade at lower rpm w/ light throttle , any change in accelerator position ussually make it go away . it will do it on level ground as well but must start w/ lighter load and roll on just a itty bitty touch more throttle to get it to do it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 i wonder if you are correct about the inj shutting down during eng brk as in no fuel at all, our cars should not do this. I briefly hear about do this, which in turns turns off the engine and something like the rotation of the transmission/(wheels) keeps the engine spinning. 'normal' cars, if you turn off the engine while the car is moving, the transmission pump stops and you'll burn up the transmission 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 (what's the difference between Manual and Sport?) Sport is when you move the shifter over to the left, the "Sport" light comes on. Manual is when you move the shifter up/down so you have manual control over the shifting. there are 3 modes of drive in these cars. "Drive" which is just normal "D" on the shifter; "Sport" which is moving the shifter to the left, but the car still shifts on its own (but more aggressively); and "Manual" which you shift the gears yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I'm sure about this, but there shouldn't be a difference between the line pressure settings of Sport and Manual mode. If there are, it must have been a pain to program 3 maps. It's a seriously complex TCU, with every compensation table you can think of. It even can guess if you're climbing a hill, and there is a map for that. Sometimes if you are in Drive, but driving aggressively, it may temporarily switch to Sport behind the scenes, just as it switches to hill mode when load is up but mph isn't increasing as fast as it should. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HpJunkie Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Climber I think your right about switching modes behind the scenes. I drive my car in all modes frequently. The car shifts at higher points in sport so you may shift into 4th @ 3500rpm in D, but shift into 4th @4000 in sport. Just my observations keep in mind. BUt anyway, Ive noticed when climbing a hill in D, the car will sometimes dog and then I get it going or sometimes it downshifts and I notice it will then shift at a higher point up the hill more. Again this is just an observation, it could be the different maps and stuff but it feels like it goes into sport, same characteristics IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Sport and Hill will feel similar in that they both keep you at a higher rpm than Drive, but if you go mess around on a bunch of hills to look for differences, you will find them. Both uphill and steep downhill vs flat, though downhill I would need to read up on, as the logic supposedly dictates that it isn't just looking for the climb but also the roll over the crest, and back down. I dont know how much of it is there for a real benefit vs well-intentioned but utterly pointless. There is a lot of utterly pointless with the 5eat. Going into the ECU maps, you will find useful tables that are sometimes zero'd out. I would not be surprised if the TCU was designed to do more than it is doing. But that's all speculation, and probably always will be. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lieutenantcolumbo Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I'm sure about this, but there shouldn't be a difference between the line pressure settings of Sport and Manual mode. If there are, it must have been a pain to program 3 maps. It's a seriously complex TCU, with every compensation table you can think of. It even can guess if you're climbing a hill, and there is a map for that. Sometimes if you are in Drive, but driving aggressively, it may temporarily switch to Sport behind the scenes, just as it switches to hill mode when load is up but mph isn't increasing as fast as it should. Fyi my transmission shop told me that manual mode raises the line pressure. By what means / method, I have no idea, but I do have a lot of faith in the guy at who rebuilt my transmission. Also when my transmission began failing from the top down, I had to put it manual mode to get any traction on fifth gear. In drive it would spin a lot worse, so that makes me believe manual has higher line pressure. Drove around for a good while like this till I decided on which route to go. Also when shifting manually, it definitely feels firmer as well too. Think in one of the threads floating around here they also documented requested torque or line pressure was raised to something like 1600 vs 400 for drive, but I could be mistaken on that. And then there's this: I don't know. But remember in manual mode shifting 1>2, it is at higher line pressure than normal + added pressure for cold temp compensation. So it's going to intentionally slam. The hypothetical slip prior to the slam may not be a slip but instead may be the fact that every RE5R05A variant has an irritating push button shift delay. I bet I can cure that with a stand-alone TCU, which no one wants but everyone should want. What gear has little to do with it, except manual 1st cranks up the line pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HpJunkie Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 One would speculate that since the car has D,S and M that the engineers would say "hey the people that buy this car will probably beat it harder in sport or manual, lets up the line pressure to save the tranny". Im just saying thats what I would say and Im not an engineer. Where do you guys grab the transgo kit. Does your tranny shop just buy it? Im very interested in Climbers progress and this transgo stuff especially since Columbo you are in PA, so that means I know theres a trans shop that knows what there doing. Quick edit: Columbo do you mind PMing me the total cost of transgo kit and install at said trans shop. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRteXan Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Lazy subscribe. With my 400whp daily driven aspirations, I have a feeling I'm going to need an answer on this. I'd like to stick with the 5EAT, but if the whole shebang ends up costing more than a 6MT swap... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 I have 3 cars that have a button that changes the trans shifting from comfy to sporty. All of them including the legacy include a bump in line pressure and shift speed for the sporty setting. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Sport is when you move the shifter over to the left, the "Sport" light comes on. Manual is when you move the shifter up/down so you have manual control over the shifting. Now I know. I never left it in Sport long enough to experience the difference. I've been using manual most of the time and drive the rest of the time. Must be I never got to that section in my reading of the owner's manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 frankster , is your gn motor stock or near stock ? what are you using for an intercooler? i have more than some experience w/ those & know that fairly big power is not too hard to get its a non turbo motor , with aftermarket weisco pistons , comp hydraulic roller turbo cam, the intercooler is a china 12"x24"x3", have a look in the beat with buick heart thread so we don't thread jack here Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PartyRock Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 I'm sure about this, but there shouldn't be a difference between the line pressure settings of Sport and Manual mode. If there are, it must have been a pain to program 3 maps. It's a seriously complex TCU, with every compensation table you can think of. It even can guess if you're climbing a hill, and there is a map for that. Sometimes if you are in Drive, but driving aggressively, it may temporarily switch to Sport behind the scenes, just as it switches to hill mode when load is up but mph isn't increasing as fast as it should. I'm pretty sure they did this, seeing as the ECU uses 3 different maps for Si Drive, all of which communicate to the tcu to switch to different line pressures (and possibly shift points?) Si Drive is much more than most people think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 definitely has settings for downhill. the car will engine brake at lower RPMs when going down hill than on a flat surface, though that could just have to do with the added momentum of rolling down hill makes the car hit the calculation threshold for engine braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 as in no fuel at all, our cars should not do this. I briefly hear about do this, which in turns turns off the engine and something like the rotation of the transmission/(wheels) keeps the engine spinning. 'normal' cars, if you turn off the engine while the car is moving, the transmission pump stops and you'll burn up the transmission all new cars turn of injection during decleration its called over run .. its to lower bad exaust and same some gas .. how ever it can be bad for turbo cars where after a hard pull you let off the throttle there is no gas going in to cool the pistons and exaust valve.. any car with automatic tranny engine will still turn when in drive. newer cars will go in to neutral eventually , cars will not burn thier transmission coating to a stop when the engine dies .. they will how ever burn if you tow long distances because oil is not properly circulated. However some cars are able to be towed for long distance with out a problem you see these behind rv's with tow bars. i have towed my subaru with my other suabau using tow bar 45 miles at 70 mph and it didn't seam to affect anything. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deadleave Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Well looking at logs of AFR, when you life of the throttle to coast, its does go 20:1 AFR. So it is running super lean, Ill have to log injector duty cycle, but that should tell us, if when engine breaking or coasting if it cuts fuel completely. My understanding was that it did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Well looking at logs of AFR, when you life of the throttle to coast, its does go 20:1 AFR. So it is running super lean, Ill have to log injector duty cycle, but that should tell us, if when engine breaking or coasting if it cuts fuel completely. My understanding was that it did. This is not new information, there is nothing to test. The ECU cuts fuel when the overrun conditions are met. You can tune it with the new Cobb definitions. It also belongs in the tuning forum. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 manual , when you use the buttons or shifter & the gear is indicated on dash , raises line pressure I drove a lot on Sport today and boy, what a difference as compared to D! I drive a lot in manual but can't believe I had the sport option all this time and didn't know it. we should meet again so you can drive this car again You just want me to have one more thing to spend money on for my car when I compare it to yours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subadozer Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 they will how ever burn if you tow long distances because oil is not properly circulated. However some cars are able to be towed for long distance with out a problem you see these behind rv's with tow bars. My parents wanted a car to tow behind their motorhome and they learned that some manual trannys will burn out if you do this, let alone AT's. They bought a Forrester (MT) because it could be towed flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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