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light weight crank pulley on Auto ?


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^ Technically, a lighter crank pulley = lesser rotational mass so, yes it can improve gas mileage. Although, I've been having too much fun with it and the throttle controller in sport mode :lol: I've been getting between 19-24 with NYC traffic/highway miles.

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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SO, to sum up, most of the different versions of the LWCP only differ in their weight and none of them cause a CEL to be thrown?

 

Which is the most inexpensive of the options available...at first glance, it appears to be GMS?

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yea but the only Gimmick pulleys I could find were under-drive and those are smaller and the ones YOU WANT TO STAY AWAY FROM. I just got back from the COBB install. I must say I notice a huge difference in throttle response and acceleration

 

Question Answered: IT IS WORTH IT !

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It's an Agency Power pulley I bought used here on the forums, and it's been on since last Fall. I had it professionally installed by AZPinstalls though.

 

No complications, although I did notice last month when I was refilling my wiper fluid with the car on, that the nut holding the pulley in place looked like it was loose/wobbling. I turned the car off and tried to tighten it, but it was already as tight as it can be. So I took it back to AZP same day and they, too, noticed the wobbling. The crank pulley and everything else were running true, and they even tried to re-tighten it, and it wouldn't budge any more. So it was concluded that it was like that WITH the stock pulley, only that with the stock pulley, the nut was hidden from view, therefore making it safe to drive.

 

So, again, no complications or adverse affects since installation. When/if you do have it installed, take note of the nut holding it in place and report back if the nut itself (NOT the crank pulley) looks like it's loose/wobbling. AZPinstalls and I would like to know for future reference/installs :)

 

Oh and I checked to see if my pulley bolt was doing the wobbly thing you said and it is sitting sturdy. NO wobbling of any sort so I would say maybe your bolt got bent when they were torque wrenching it down...

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Has anyone had any problems with premature wear on the engine bearings due to the reduced weight? A friend of mine suggested that I stay away from a LWCP b/c it will allow more vibration to be carried throught the crankshaft into the engine as there is less material to dampen the vibration. Is there any truth to this?

 

I was looking at Ralliteks site and saw there crankshaft pulley and it had me thinking about it but since mine is an everyday driver I don't want to ruin it just to gain a better throttle response.

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A boxer motor does not need harmonic balancing so there should not be issues like your buddy suggested. This is not an inline or V engine. There was a reply here somewhere, years ago, from a Subaru engineer which confirmed this.
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yea but the only Gimmick pulleys I could find were under-drive and those are smaller and the ones YOU WANT TO STAY AWAY FROM. I just got back from the COBB install. I must say I notice a huge difference in throttle response and acceleration

 

Question Answered: IT IS WORTH IT !

 

if you dont mind me asking... how much did everything cost you?

 

thanks

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A boxer motor does not need harmonic balancing so there should not be issues like your buddy suggested. This is not an inline or V engine. There was a reply here somewhere, years ago, from a Subaru engineer which confirmed this.

 

^+1 Had an engine builder w/ years of experience do my stage 3 install and he confirmed there was no need for a harmonic balancer on this engine. Also the crankshaft is pretty short and you don't spend a ton of time at high rpms anyway.

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if you dont mind me asking... how much did everything cost you?

 

thanks

 

The pulley was 130 from rallysport direct locally and SolidAutoWorks here in SLC installed it for 70 bones. Took like 45 minutes...

 

200 total

 

If I had a MT I would have done it myself... But Being I am a 4EAT I did not want to deal with holding down a torque converter or removing anything that is necessary to get to it..

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You could have done it on a 4eat! I did it on my 5eat all you have to do is pull off the little rubber cover for the transmission and insert a large screwdriver into the gap of the rotating mass and crank the pulley til the screw driver gets jammed to a point. Then hold the screwdriver in place and attach a breaker bar and a cheater bar to the crank pulley bolt,(Passenger side of car) then pull the cheater bar towards you while pushing the screwdriver both down and away from you. It'll free up very easily, I applied very little force, but then again I might be stronger than some people. Either way this is a VERY easy install and you can oft find pulleys on here (mine is Perrin and i got it for 65 shipped) you just have to be patient. and hey if you would have spent retail (130) - 70 = 60 +install (70) = 130, that's 130 that you could have saved for a front lip lol. goodluck peeps.
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You could have done it on a 4eat! I did it on my 5eat all you have to do is pull off the little rubber cover for the transmission and insert a large screwdriver into the gap of the rotating mass and crank the pulley til the screw driver gets jammed to a point. Then hold the screwdriver in place and attach a breaker bar and a cheater bar to the crank pulley bolt,(Passenger side of car) then pull the cheater bar towards you while pushing the screwdriver both down and away from you. It'll free up very easily, I applied very little force, but then again I might be stronger than some people. Either way this is a VERY easy install and you can oft find pulleys on here (mine is Perrin and i got it for 65 shipped) you just have to be patient. and hey if you would have spent retail (130) - 70 = 60 +install (70) = 130, that's 130 that you could have saved for a front lip lol. goodluck peeps.

 

yea true. But I am not patient nor willing to figit with something I am not familiar with so I gladly paid 200 for everything. Just think... I I would have broke anything it would have easily been more ...

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FREAKING AWESOME. so awesome that I want a 25mm instead of 22mm. Having endlinks all around really tightens things up for the whole car, steering feels more connected. Oh btw, you'll want to turn everywhere you go if you get sways/endlinks. The package really makes driving ten times better, I get excited everytime I start up my car =)
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FREAKING AWESOME. so awesome that I want a 25mm instead of 22mm. Having endlinks all around really tightens things up for the whole car, steering feels more connected. Oh btw, you'll want to turn everywhere you go if you get sways/endlinks. The package really makes driving ten times better, I get excited everytime I start up my car =)

 

I felt the same way when I installed my 19mm Rallitek RSB. Then I stumbled upon a used Perrin 22mm here in the classifieds and went with that. Unless you haven't already, wait until you put in new springs and struts, roll center kit, LCA bushings, steering rack bushings, and 22mm FSB :wub: x3504650

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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Yeah I already have the Perrin PSRS in and that's um well, amazing. All I really need is the Bump Steer kit from whiteline as I've heard that helps a lot. As for sways I'm looking to go 25mm rear and 22mm front now.
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