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HELP cam gear


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Are you sure you used the right spark plugs?

 

I hope SBT isn't right, but he just might be.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Well, you could do a compression/leakdown check before tearing everything apart.

 

If you did bend valves you should be able to hear air coming out of the throttle body or exhaust during the leakdown check. I would check the cylinders of the bank where you had trouble with the cam sprocket first, unless you went crazy spinning everything without keeping it in time, in which case just check them all.

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The car should still start with bent valves if im not mistaken though?

 

Depends how bad they are bent. If you are not getting compression the car will not start.

 

To your other question... all I can say is what Rao said. You have the service instructions, just rotate the crank until the marks on the pulleys line up. If they do not line up after a few turns then the valvetrain is not timed correctly.

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Okay so I took everything off and one of the cams wasnt aligned so we took the belt back off and aligned everything to the manual's spec (the 3 top marks line up with the belt as well as the 2 sider marks on the lower cams), everything looks the same in my engine as it does in the manual's diagram, BUT when I try to turn the crank to do a full rotation, the whole assembly moves only an inch then becomes very tight and will only turn the crank bolt (tightening the bolt not turning the system), what's wrong??
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ALRIGHT. Put all the new things on and put everything back together, BUT i turn the key for less than a second and all I hear is the started motor working really hard turn the engine over as if something is impeding something else in the engine =/ wtf happened?

 

Helllll nooo, I just tried turning the crank bolt with a ratchet thats all

 

The starter has enough torque to break stuff. If you are lucky it will be something simple and easy that you overlooked.

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Right that's why I didnt try starting it. Well after talking to subaru techs they said worst case senario itll cost 3000 for both labor and parts of all valves and gaskets. prettty awwweeeessoommmeee. Hopefully, if anything is wrong with the engine itll just be the same lower right exhaust came since that's really the only thing i can think of.
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  • 7 months later...
Use a grinder. It's a pain. Especially since you MIGHT have to replace the gear if you get too froggy.

 

:nono:

 

It's an older thread but seriously crazy advice is being given here.

 

There are three ways of dealing with these stubborn bolts:

 

1. Use special tools. Expensive and not all that great for holding plastic exhaust gears anyway. Skip. Also don't get tempted to get aftermarket wrenches such as those made by MSI or Cobb - they are garbage and will simply bend in your hands.

 

2. DRILL the bolts out. Just trill till the bolt head falls off. Not the quickest but perhaps easiest way. It's not a bad idea to replace these bolts anyway, they are less than $2 each from dealer.

 

3. Take old timing belt, two or even better three vise grips and lock the gear to the crank. This requires the crank to be locked, so that's easiest with the engine out of the car. This is my preferred method.

 

Things NOT to do:

 

1. Take an impact to the bolt. Cam can be damaged and then the bolts laugh at most guns (maybe a 3/4 gun with a good air supply can do it - still not recommended).

 

2. Hammer the bolt.

 

3. Weld or grind anything there.

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