ehsnils Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 when my cruise light was flashing it was bc my MAF sensor had gotten wet due to a cold air intake Cruise light always flashes when there is a CEL. This to indicate that the cruise control is disabled. I don't really know why people seems to think that this is more important than the CEL... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 As soon as OCV valves show up I will be able to work on it again. It's taking Fred Beans 2 weeks to ship these out to me. Their company is in PA right? I'm in WA so I would think in 2 weeks you could have Amish carriage deliver it faster than that.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 Cruise light always flashes when there is a CEL. This to indicate that the cruise control is disabled. I don't really know why people seems to think that this is more important than the CEL... Because it's flashing, yo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted March 10, 2011 Author Share Posted March 10, 2011 I finally got OCV sensors and installed them. I cleared codes and drove it 2 times. On 2nd time as soon as it warmed up enough CEL turned back on. Came home and pulled codes P0128 P0011 and P0021 I'm pretty pissed and disappointed now as sensors are brand new and still codes returned. What should I do now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 If you're seeing oil coming from behind the cover, you have cam and/or crank seals leaking. If/when you have someone do the timing belt job for you, (and if you plan on keeping the car,) don't cheap out on it -- get a new belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, thermostat, crank seal and cam seals. How hard/expensive to change out crank/cam seals. Does engine have to come out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eb50 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 got this today. will hook up the AP tomorrow to read the codes -/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eb50 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 got this today. will hook up the AP tomorrow to read the codes -/ P1573. It wasnt even in the AP book =( Google shows... Subaru: EGI-Immobilizer response time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 DO NOT CHANGE YOUR CAM SEALS UNLESS YOU HAVE THE PROPER TOOLS. and to do this, you need to replace your timing belt since you have to take off things in this order: 1:V-Belts 2:Crank Pulley 3:Timing Case 4:Timing belt -Make SURE everything is LINED UP and will not move if your doing it yourself 5. All four Cam Sprockets = PITA since theyre hex sockets, I got the Koken 10 mm bit, and it worked perfect. (Of course this was after I destroyed everything =( ). 6. Youll see the Cam seals, make sure you can pull these off WITHOUT scratching the camshaft or else youll have a leaking cam seal forever since the oil will run through the scratches. I'd suggest bringing it to a shop or subaru itll prob cost around 300-500 if you have all of the necessary parts and are just paying for labor. That's a very low price to pay compared to my 4400 for trying to do it myself and make stuff collide as well as scratching the camshaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted March 31, 2011 Share Posted March 31, 2011 And be careful when removing the cam sprockets since you may get valve interference and damage the valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted March 31, 2011 I Donated Share Posted March 31, 2011 P0128 sounds like a thermostat that is stuck open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 My mechanic is changing belt/pump. Also found one of head gaskets was leaking. He's pulling engine and replacing both headgaskets, so pretty much all gaskets will be new. He also will clean banjo bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 7, 2011 Share Posted April 7, 2011 What about the cam seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted April 8, 2011 Author Share Posted April 8, 2011 he might replace those depending if theyre leaking. I trust the guy, he's done work for us before Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gasaraki Posted April 8, 2011 Share Posted April 8, 2011 It does shake at idle and when in gear at stop light. Is there specs for iAT sensor, I'd like to measure resistance. FSM only shows how to R/R sensor I had this exact problem with my 08 LGT. Took it to my dealer and they replaced the tumbler gaskets? I think it was tumbler gaskets... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stryker08 Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 I had my car drop into neutral on it's own and both my Cruise and Check Engine light started flashing about a month after I got my '08 GT. The transmission needed a faulty module replaced. If both are flashing it is often a serious problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted April 11, 2011 I Donated Share Posted April 11, 2011 If both are flashing it is often a serious problem. Depends on your definition of "serious." CELs can be anything from $0-50 replacements of non-crucial parts, to expensive replacements that, if not done immediately, can cause serious cascading mechanical damage. It's all about what code comes up -- hence why you should get the code read (or read it with a code reader yourself) ASAP, and then determine after that whether immediate action is required. Example: After my swap, I had a TGV position sensor code -- I could have left it for a year without engine damage, but the flashing cruise annoyed me, so I bought a $20 sensor to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucka Posted April 11, 2011 Share Posted April 11, 2011 this is annoying, it happens to my girlfriends legacy all the time. I never have that issue with my legacy though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 12, 2011 Share Posted April 12, 2011 I would say that whenever you get a CEL, check the code and try to fix it. How urgent it is depends on what it is. The TGV:s are about as urgent as fixing the lawnmower in the winter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted April 13, 2011 Author Share Posted April 13, 2011 My mechanic is working on it and pulled engine out. Apparently you need special wrench to take out camshaft bolts so he's ordering it so he can have it for next time he needs it. He said that some idiot was in there before and didn't put on timing belt correctly (as I suspected) and that;s why car shook all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucka Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 yep that is true. My buddy at Delusion H performance had to order one just to rebuild a motor for a customer. Not a cheap wrench either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Knowing all this we probably wouldn't have bought subaru. What a PITA these cars are Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 Knowing all this we probably wouldn't have bought subaru. What a PITA these cars are Not very difficult though....pulling the engine is rather easy, once it's out everything else is easy, trust me. Sounds like they're doing the right thing by pulling the engine, that way you can tackle EVERYTHING with ease and can actually save time. Setting the correct timing and lining up the marks can be a PITA though, just gotta have that torx/hex adapter to line the cam sprockets up oh so diligently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted April 15, 2011 Author Share Posted April 15, 2011 Not very difficult though....pulling the engine is rather easy, once it's out everything else is easy, trust me. Sounds like they're doing the right thing by pulling the engine, that way you can tackle EVERYTHING with ease and can actually save time. Setting the correct timing and lining up the marks can be a PITA though, just gotta have that torx/hex adapter to line the cam sprockets up oh so diligently. He pulled out engine cause he's gonna change head gaskets Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 And it's actually not that hard to take out the engine. Just be careful with the O2 sensors and stuff like that because it's a bit tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xero287 Posted April 16, 2011 Share Posted April 16, 2011 Get a koken bit and call it a day =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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