madcatz Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Yes it does, but at the same time lean conditions and maf settings shouldn't be the call outs iirc -Travis Rob (rao) you're a fine gentleman, thanks I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingfisher Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 10-4. Wasn't sure on that myself, but thought I'd throw it out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 10, 2011 Author Share Posted February 10, 2011 Checked grounds, look good. Coolant was low (overflow tank was empty) I filled it up. Oil is over Full mark, how bad is that? I'm going to drain it to level. It's also leaking from somewhere (almost looks like oil fill tube) and dripped on exhaust and was burning a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 I just have a general question/idea for people; is it possible that something fried in the ECU on this vehicle? P0459: Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve Circuit High (Could be a bad solenoid) P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit low input P0103 Mass air flow sensor circuit high input P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) P0108 Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input) P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Low P2016 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 1) P2021 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor / Switch Circuit Low (Bank 2) What were the circumstances leading up to your CEL and cruise lights coming on? FWIW, if you have the MAF sensor unplugged and the key is in the "on" position (even without having the car running) you'll throw some exciting codes. Point being, all of these codes are basically the PCM complaining about various inputs being out of acceptable range. This does not necessarily mean that all of the sensors listed are failing; it simply means the PCM is expecting inputs within certain parameters and not getting them. If you have some shady wiring harness connectors, corrosion, chafing wires, etc., that could explain away all of these codes. I am extremely skeptical, however, that all of these codes appeared simultaneously. More details, please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 This is the way I bought the car. So far I've changed oil, filled up coolant (overflow was empty), cleaned MAF, cleaned OCV's as there were also P0021/P0011 codes last time I drove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirbOOm Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 My cruise blinked because I left the gas cap undone (like a woman). Reset it by disconnecting the battery and haven't seen it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 If you bought the car like this and haven't done anything other than an oil change, clear the codes. Drive it and see which ones (if any) reappear. That will at least give you a clean look at what is really (currently) happening with the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTSANEJ Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 last week going about ten my abs kicked on and my potenzas slid me right into a snow bank, didn't do anything cosmetically but the cruise and check engine light came on went in to buy a coffee at a Mobil and bam it was gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 15, 2011 Author Share Posted February 15, 2011 If you bought the car like this and haven't done anything other than an oil change, clear the codes. Drive it and see which ones (if any) reappear. That will at least give you a clean look at what is really (currently) happening with the car. Oil changed, cleared codes. Went for a drive, no CEL so far. Although car is still shuddering at idle/stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 It's been a long day but let me give this a quick once-over with regards to rough idle/stumbling: P0459: Canister Purge Control Solenoid Valve Circuit High: should not affect driveability. May set CEL if there is a problem with the solenoid or wiring for it. P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit low input: will definitely affect idle if there is any problem with the MAF signal P0103 Mass air flow sensor circuit high input: ditto as above P0031 HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1): no driveability concerns. Will set CEL if there is a wiring problem or if the o2 sensor has failed/is failing. P0108 Manifold Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input): any input to this sensor above 4.9V may/will result in fuel cut , which could explain a rough idle. Have you noticed a lack of power at higher RPMs? P0245 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Low: no driveability concerns at idle. Could be a wiring problem or a bad solenoid. P2016 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 1): no idea and I'm not going to muddy the water further by guessing at it. P2021 - Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor / Switch Circuit Low (Bank 2): ditto as above. I realize this may not be much help. I'll give it a harder look tomorrow. I still keep coming back to my original hunch which is that you may have some major wiring problems. Do yourself a favor and make sure that the MAF sensor is at least properly plugged in, although a problem there should have thrown a code as soon as you started the car after clearing the DTCs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boymk123 Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 I had this couple weeks ago due to my Perrin air filter clogged up, I cleaned the MAF, change to a paper filter, disconnect the battery no more CEL + BLINKING CRUISE Hasnt come back since:) I made the autozone guy went outside and read the code in 4 degree temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Does anyone know specs for MAF? I want to test mine for resistance but can't find specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Nevermind on MAF. I went for a drive today (cleaned OCV's, changed oil, cleaned MAF) and as soon as it warmed up CEL went back on, along with Cruise flashing. Came home and scanned it. P0011 and P0021 came back on and then P0128 and P0459 (pending, whatever that means) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boymk123 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 did u disconnect the battery? mine came out bad MAF sensor, so I think cleaning the MAF will solve the problem, no sure about yours... sorry to hear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDW25gt Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I forgot to re connect the MAF sensor one time and the cruise light flashed and it popped a cel. I cleared the codes and then no problems. Clear the codes and start from scratch. See what happens next. Check the code if it poppes a cel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 Nevermind on MAF. I went for a drive today (cleaned OCV's, changed oil, cleaned MAF) and as soon as it warmed up CEL went back on, along with Cruise flashing. Came home and scanned it. P0011 and P0021 came back on and then P0128 and P0459 (pending, whatever that means) P0011 and P0021 are codes for intake cams over-advanced (both cams). P0128 is saying that your coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature. The P0459 is indicating that your evap canister purge valve solenoid likely needs to be replaced; I'm not sure if that is available independently of the canister. The first two codes are concerning. How many miles on the car and/or when is the last time the timing belt was done? Any time you have a chance of incorrect timing you need to be very careful (obviously). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 94000 on car. Not sure when timing belt was done. I was thinking about replacing OCV valves. I can have mechanic change belt/water pump for me. There seems to be oil leak from behind timing belt cover. I found canister purge solenoid online, not sure where it's located on the car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Verwilderd Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 If there's only 94K on the car, chances are timing belt may not have been replaced. Subaru recommend changing it at 105K. So you are still a few thousand away. I would still be easy on it as it doesn't mean the timing belt is in great condition. You bought this car used? Do you know the history of it? If the car has been ragged out, you could be in for a lot of problems down the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VermontGT Posted February 20, 2011 Share Posted February 20, 2011 I can have mechanic change belt/water pump for me. There seems to be oil leak from behind timing belt cover. If you're seeing oil coming from behind the cover, you have cam and/or crank seals leaking. If/when you have someone do the timing belt job for you, (and if you plan on keeping the car,) don't cheap out on it -- get a new belt, tensioner, idlers, water pump, thermostat, crank seal and cam seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 20, 2011 Author Share Posted February 20, 2011 I've ordered new OCV valves and will install them when they get here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Over-advance cams is a tricky one, and what comes to mind is also "CHECK THE BANJO BOLT". This since the oil feed is the same for the cam advance and the turbo. However the over-advance can be due to low temp and high viscosity of the oil. What oil viscosity do you use? The pending codes are codes for temporary conditions that may go away and at low temps it's possible that the evap valve just froze or stuck because it was too cold. If you don't get any CEL it's not a permanent problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Can I just replace banjo bolt with less restrictive one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 It's more the case of the filter getting dirty than anything else. Some people just cleans it, others removes the filter. Do a search for "banjo bolt" on this site and you will get too many answers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kawasaki148 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 when my cruise light was flashing it was bc my MAF sensor had gotten wet due to a cold air intake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PearlBlueGT Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share Posted February 23, 2011 when my cruise light was flashing it was bc my MAF sensor had gotten wet due to a cold air intake MAF issues is resolved, I think. I just cleaned it. I took banjo bolts off that sit next to OCV valves and one on top of turbo, they all looked clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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