AWDPete Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 This is really weird: I have '05 Outback Turbo with a 5EAT with 44,000 miles - all bone stock The other day I noticed the trans shifting all weird, hard into second then I'm getting wheel spin from the front - no rear drive! So on my way home it gets more weird, at 55mph the revs shoot up. It acts like a slipping clutch in a manual trans car. No dash lights have come on, fluid level is correct, WTF is going on!? Anybody had this happen on a "non-modded" 5EAT? I know I have some mice in the garage and I just took there food source away (no i'm not feeding them - not on purpose anyway!). I found some evidence of them being under the hood, could the little ba$tards have chewed some wires on me? It's the only thing I can think of...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underground000 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 It is very possible the mice caused a problem. They love to eat the wire insulation. Reminds me of the guy that posted he bought a $12 hamster, left it in the car a little while and came back and it caused $1800 worth of electrical damaged 5eat downshift rev match:) Powder coated wheels: completed:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 Something similar happened to my lady friend with mice chewing transmission wires on her 4AT Impreza. It set off the AWD and AT Temp lights though. Time to put the car up on jackstands and start looking around! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 I hope it's that simple! The trans hasn't shown any signs of trouble previous to this. At least I "feel" better about it at this point, Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 I crawled around under the car and found..............nothing, everything under the hood looked OK too. I reset the ECU but it's still doing the same $hit - grrrrr I guess next step is to start pulling the dash apart - I know the little ba$tards got inside. Am I missing something? The car hasn't been to the dealer since I've owned it - did I miss a recall or service bulletin? I'm still puzzled that no dash warning lights have come on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted January 28, 2011 Share Posted January 28, 2011 Definitely weird you're not getting any warning lights. I'd ask a mechanic to see if they can duplicate the problem and get a better diagnosis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 No problem duplicating it - it's stuck that way! I'm not certain what's "slipping" the clutches or the converter so I don't think it's wise to drive it to the stealership. And I just let my AAA membership lapse........being unemployed sucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted January 28, 2011 Author Share Posted January 28, 2011 SO I checked and I have two codes in diagnostic mode: CO 106 and CO 108. I have found a list of "P" codes but none for the "C" codes? Anyone know where to find them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted January 29, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted January 29, 2011 I posted this on SOB.org as well...I think it may be a failsafe mode from wheel speed sensors. This is just a hunch as I can't seem to find info on what happens if multiple speed sensors die. The slippage could be due to the TCU preventing TC lockup and the FWD feeling might just be the transfer clutch being disabled by the TCU. It seems to me that 2 failed speed sensors would disable the TCU's ability to see a difference in wheel speed front to back. If the sensors have failed, then they have to be replaced anyway. You might as well replace them and see if it fixes the problem. They are usually very easy to replace, but I haven't done any on a Subaru. Maybe those are the wires that got chewed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 It's worth a shot - I will take a look. I reset the ECU and took it for a drive: the problem is still there and no new codes. I believe the those ABS codes I have are from a couple of years back when I got her stuck in the snow - a trip to the carwash cleared it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 You can try resetting the TCU. Requires VagCom cable or Tactrix 1.3, and the FREE SSM software. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 So I pulled the rear wheel off (the one that threw the sensor code) to take a look at the sensor but I was unable to get the rotor off - grrr! I looked at the sensor wire and it looked fine so I tried to unbolt the sensor but it felt like the bolt might snap so I left it alone - more grrr!! Took it for a drive and let it get good and warm, went down a pretty steep/windy road in Sport mode: no engine braking at all but the Sport light started flashing so I pulled over and checked the codes: now all I get is the co106? When I took off the Sport light was no longer flashing. Stupid Subie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 You won't get reliable code reads from the TCU without the Subaru Select tool. I learned this myself when the rear speed sensor went out on me, all code readers were reporting ABS codes and only the SSM at the dealer was able to correctly read the code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Yah, i'm finding the same thing, it's at a local garage owned by a friend - he has two different readers and neither are reporting any codes...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 sport light flashing usually means some sort of transmission issue. did you check the fuse that controls AWD/FWD? I think it's in the engine bay. maybe you blew it somehow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 Do we have such a fuse? I thought it was nonexistent and there was no way you could make the 05+ FWD-only like on the older models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctorbrody Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 I believe the way the old ones worked is that you put a fuse in to make it FWD, not take one out. But I don't think the 05+ has that function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 I only got the Sport light to turn on that one time and hasn't since. I did check all the fuses under the hood and they are all fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 hmm could have sworn i read it was there for the 05+'s as well, but i could be mistaken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 That fuse is on 4EAT cars only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 So I pulled the rear wheel off (the one that threw the sensor code) to take a look at the sensor but I was unable to get the rotor off - grrr! Silly question but...was the parking brake on? My friend and I had a brain fart years ago when we couldn't get a rear rotor off, only to remember the drum parking brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 From what I know the current AT awd drivetrain has no way to disconnect the rear drive shaft/diff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snow05gtRI Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 ok, guess i was incorrect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClimberDHexMods Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 From what I know the current AT awd drivetrain has no way to disconnect the rear drive shaft/diff. Not without a socket wrench. [CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWDPete Posted February 13, 2011 Author Share Posted February 13, 2011 Well I took the car to a friend who has a local shop, he had it for two days and two nights trying to figure it out. He says the car seems to work fine and asks me to come drive it. We take the car for a drive and all is fine! I ask him what he did and he tells me 'nothing' other then check it with his Napa scan tool which revealed no codes. My best guess is....I have no idea! Other then sitting in his heated shop overnight. I still need to change the trans fluid, can anyone suggest a source for it? Thanks everyone for your help :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.