Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 what piggyback works on the legacy 2.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 rallitek pp6 megasquirt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 by the way, is there any possible way to data-log a 2nd gen? I read somewhere that no information shows up on the data-log or something. Can someone please show me in the right direction? Have you checked the valve clearance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 He did say that the compression test checked out with 168 in all cylinders, so that should take care of a timing check, worry about the piston rings, and (in theory) worry about the valves. Not a bad idea to check this out though. I would try picking up the piggyback ecu, that would at least give you data on the 4th cylinder and see what's different about it. To me this sounds more like an electronic bug than anything, and it's definitely worth a shot. Custom Trendz, I'll be back the 17th and will be around for 3wks or so if you want me to swing by and give my input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 The valve clearance can still be an issue even if the compression checks out since the compression is done on cold (relatively) valves and if the valve clearance is very tight the valve expansion when it gets warm can be enough to cause a leak and resulting in obscure results. This was noted by another member with a LPG converted car. OK, checking the valves sucks since it's so tight... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 But if it misfires even when it's cold, does your assumption still hold true? Just trying to play the devil's advocate here, we'll see what the OP has to say Also, when did the 2.5 start running HLAs? If it's the HLAs, the job should be easier, but there's still going to be a very tight cleareance as far as checking the bloody things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 Since a valve itself heats up a lot faster than the rest of the engine it can still hold. The valve has a fairly large surface area in the combustion chamber and is for the exhaust valves only cooled by the valve guide. And compare the 600 degrees C (or something) of the heat in the combustion chamber with the 0 to 80 degrees C temperature of the engine you may realize that for this little poor component the engine temperature may not make much difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 12, 2010 Author Share Posted December 12, 2010 it misfires all around whenever it wants. its quite annoying and the CEL code is flashing whenever its worse. Is there a place around CT that does ecu tuning? maybe i could have the guys check out whats so different. I think its a short somewhere, because the engine misfires worse when theres more of a electrical drain(sub on, heater or ac on, lights, window switches.) But honestly how would I even begin looking for a short relating to the 4th cylinder? Does anyone know what sensors tell the engine its a cylinder 4 issue? that way i could check the wires leading to the sensor and the sensor or sensors. and it would be cool if you want to meet up in wethersfield(that way you could see progression from cold to warm) or i could bring it closer to you. Ill be leaving around new years to go to NH so anytime before xmas would be pretty easy to schedule. Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys! The local subaru engine shop said to just keep driving it and see if it goes away :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaz98gt Posted December 12, 2010 Share Posted December 12, 2010 I'd be down for meeting up in wethersfield, I've just got 5 days of finals ahead of me then I'm home or yeah, whatever works for you, I'm fine with meeting wherever. After hearing that, it definitely sounds like an electrical bug. Hmm...the first thing I thought of was checking the grounds, but I don't think it's related to that. Always worth a shot, but I'd pin it on a sensor for the 4th cylinder. And just for clarafication, it's only the 4th that's misfiring? And nothing has changed since you've swapped out all of the parts and shifted things around? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 it hasnt moved from the 4th cylinder at all, even if i swapped injectors and injector wires, plugs, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 If it's an electrical bug it can be very evasive and not easy to track. Starting with a battery voltage check - 13:6 to 14.4 volts when running is normal. Grounding points all over, engine, battery and ecu. Pull apart contacts at engine and ecu and put them together again would exercise them enough for oxides to go away. But it can also be the ecu that's getting old. A bad solder spot can be the culprit so if you have a different ecu available it may help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 so exactly what ecu will work on my legacy? And how much would the ecu cost used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 You will have to check around with junkyards and see what they have. If you are lucky you may get one to test with and be able to return if it didn't help. But check voltages and groundings for the current one first. That way you won't waste money and time on putting in a new one that wasn't needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 so exactly what ecu will work on my legacy? And how much would the ecu cost used? If you have an auto I have an extra one in my garage. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04NP Posted December 13, 2010 Share Posted December 13, 2010 Try cleaning the idle air valve or replacing it ... you'll probably need a new gasket if you take it off, fair warning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 13, 2010 Author Share Posted December 13, 2010 subikid90 - how much do u want for it and yes my cars auto. If we agree on a price could I test it first(of course leave u a deposit) and then if it doesn't help give it back? 04np - where could i get a gasket for the IACV? Also, my mileage has been horrible in the 14-16mpg range. 16-18 was what I got when I first got the car. Im also going to check the voltages, Im going to borrow my uncles nice multimeter in order to get accurate reading versus my dads ANCIENT multimeter which barely works. Lastly, I got my battery checked and it checked out good(dont remember the reading) but advance auto did not even recommend a new batt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 You can only get the gasket from the dealer. Dont let them try to give you the O-ring, they tried twice to tell me that was the right part. Its a rectangle gaskets thats about 4inx2in with holes in it lol. Ill PM you on the ECU -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v371/CustomTrendzInc/Mobile%20Uploads/th_1214000026.jpg is this it? I had it left over from my headgasket kit from fel-pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted December 14, 2010 Share Posted December 14, 2010 I think so, It looks like that I know. Damn I wish I knew I had that gasket in my fel-pro kit sitting in my garage instead of dealing with the dealer trying to find it for a month -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 14, 2010 Author Share Posted December 14, 2010 the felpro kit has everything! I even found the hard to find injector o-rings in it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 EFI says it might be a burnt valve or bad knock sensor. How do i check for burnt valve OTHER than a compression test(which i did all cylinders at 168.) Whats that dollar bill trick w/ exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 If you have a good compression value I would rule out a burnt valve, but the valve clearance may still be too tight, which would give a similar effect on a running engine. However the knock sensor is also a possibility but I don't know why it would only affect one cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 15, 2010 Author Share Posted December 15, 2010 i replaced knock sensor about 6k miles ago so it should be good, ill move it to the other spot and see if it gets better. Anyone have ideas what sensors read the cylinder 4 misfire? EFI said compression could be fine with a burnt valve, but i personally dont see how that would work? It idles rough too thanks to the cold temps+misfire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 If it is indeed a burnt valve, then it is causing pre-ignition, which will cause a misfire. Just my .2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Trendz Inc. Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 pulling the sparkplug wire off the coil(but leaving the boot on) by about an inch produces no difference in running. It ran real rough today and you can feel bad vibration driving at 1500-2000 rpm in the beginning of a gear(cruising.) Pulling the injector wire made it run rougher. But then again, the msd ignition probably just arced to the plug wire and didnt change it. Ran some seafoam through brake booster, didnt really do much. going to run compression again(maybe valve is finally FUBAR) and make sure cyl 4 is fine. Also going to check the plug, and check the spark on all the plugs. P.S. the blue wire coming into the ignition coil, had a remote starter wire spliced into it and when i took it off i noticed it was not even soldered, and that the blue wire had about 4 of the 20 inner copper wires actually cut(somebody used a razor to do it, so they got some wires.) I took it off and wrapped it in electrical tape but no difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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