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Grinding going into 4th gear only.......


KTM 525

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My car starting having a grind while shifting from 3rd to 4th under boost. It started the day I had the manual transmission oil changed. I have no clue what the shop but in there. After a year, it never went away. I switched to Subaru Extra S this week and it went away!
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That sounds pretty thick. But mine takes that too. I just looked at the manual, there are a few grades you can run but basically the recommended is actually 75W/90 or if you never to below -20F apparently 85W is OK.

 

Holy crap.

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  • 1 year later...
My car starting having a grind while shifting from 3rd to 4th under boost. It started the day I had the manual transmission oil changed. I have no clue what the shop but in there. After a year, it never went away. I switched to Subaru Extra S this week and it went away!

 

I have had a similar issue and have been double clutching it from 3rd to 4th for over a year and a half. Mine would grind from 3-->4 whenever over 40mph, even when not even in boost. Switched to Extra-S today and the grind has been decreasing steadily all day long. I don't want to say it's completely gone yet, but as long as I guide it gently into gear, almost no grind now. I am hopeful it will be completely gone in the next day or two.

 

I had thought the only way to fix the problem was a new syncro. I am glad I tried the Extra-S. This is no hype - it really works! Anyone in N. CO, go see Mike Wiener at 5250 Performance - he carries it.

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  • 6 months later...
Well, to revive and oldy but a goody...got the grind this week from 3rd to 4th, have 85,000 miles, had the tranny fluid changed several months ago, and replaced the clutch. Gonna get that extra s fluid, only happens under boost above 3800 rpm.
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^ Interestingly my grind started a few days or weeks after I had the stealership change my tranny fluid. Since it went away after I changed it again with the Extra S, I am convinced now that at least in my case, the original fluid change was the cause of my problem. I have been grind free for several months now.
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Couldn't get the extra S even if I wanted to. I went with Royal Purple 75w 90. Its grinding less severly, but still there if I push it. I am probably gonna have to do a rebuild. The car was in rough shape when I bought it, and have been nursing it back to health for 2 years. Previous owner had an MBC on it if thats any clue.

 

Oh yes, I also installed new transmission mounts, all around Group N. The noise is nice with engine but now I hear the flywheel rattling when I let off the gas, sorta grinding is that normal? I put in a single mass FW when I changed the clutch. Ideas? Would the same noise be heard with the OEM dual mass FW and cluth?

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I could order it from Fred Beans or Infamous, but I felt it needed to be done immediately. The subaru dealership here has never even heard of it, and they told me they use 80w something which isnt even oem spec for the transmission fluid, I was horrified. When the guy finally found it, it only came in a 5 gallon drum.

 

I am going to have the clucth alignment looked at this week when I get a chance too. I don't like the grinding or the weird spinning grinding flywheel noise either, unless its normal but I am not sure it is.

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Oh gotcha. I thought you meant you couldn't get it at all but you just meant locally. I would order some anyways and as soon as you can drain and refill with the Extra-S.

 

RP is an overrated product.

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I suppose..it is a toss up as to whether or not it would truly help save you from a rebuild but if it were me I would take the gamble on the $100 and hope that at the very least it prolonged complete failure.
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An alternative flud I feel is as good as Extra-S in my own transmission was Amsoil Severe Gear 75w110. I have since switched to Extra-S and used it repeatedly, but I drove with amsoil severe gear for quite a while, including in ~10 degree F weather, and it was excellent for quieting down the trans/driveline, smooth shifting, and overall better feel than stock by miles and miles.
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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm currently using royal purple 75w/90 and I have recently in the past two months picked up this 4th gear grind. It's horrible and absolutely frustrating. Learned how to cope with it for the most part but it still grinds everyday no matter how careful you are. Is a synchro replacement really necessary or is the switch to extra-s really the solution? Whats the cost for a synchro replacement? might as well do all of the gears no?

 

Oh yea and currently I have an upgraded clutch, lwfw, hardened motor and tranny mounts, and an sts...its like a trannies worst nightmare to begin with.

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  • 1 month later...

im bumping this thread as you can add me to the list.

 

im going to buy some redline shockproof and mix it with a quart of motul300 for the colder temps. i've read that andrewtechautomotive uses this cocktail almost 100% of the time. wish me luck

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I"m jumping in on the middle of this. Has anyone tried going THINNER? Other manual CAR tranny's take lighter oil and they don't have these grind and inability to grab gear issues. Honda for example, their previous gen used 10w30 or 10w40 motor oil. Their current generation calls for the same as the engine, 0w20 or 0w30 motor oil. I'm not suggesting doing anyting that drastic but I am wondering if anyone has tried something like 20w50 oil?
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  • 1 month later...
this may be bad juju

 

BUT!

 

i drained a quart from my tranny and added a quart of syncromesh

 

i can shift like butter all day long now all my grinding problems are gone

 

 

how long were you grinding for and did you see anything on your tranny drain plug??

 

I'm debating pulling my tranny while my motor is out to drop off at a tranny shop to get freshened up. but at the same time why should I throw money at something thats ultimately going to blow up anyways? especially if I can do a simple fluid change and get a better result as most of you have.

 

anybody gone for a rebuild or at least new synchros? whats it run you guys? Its def. and advantage that I already have the tranny loose and I can just give them that over asking them to pull it from the car.

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how long were you grinding for and did you see anything on your tranny drain plug??

 

I'm debating pulling my tranny while my motor is out to drop off at a tranny shop to get freshened up. but at the same time why should I throw money at something thats ultimately going to blow up anyways? especially if I can do a simple fluid change and get a better result as most of you have.

 

anybody gone for a rebuild or at least new synchros? whats it run you guys? Its def. and advantage that I already have the tranny loose and I can just give them that over asking them to pull it from the car.

 

 

About 2500 miles before I acted on it

I didn't drain through the drain plug sucked it out through the fill hole

It did have shiny metal in the fluid I pulled out

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