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For non-turbo ... use the PCV valve

 

new member here.

have always used 1.5 to 2 Quarts of tranny fluid with oil change and new filter to clean sludge out of engine , idle for 30 or so min. and do another oil change with filter and engine breaths great valves are free etc.. Then add a qt. of marvel mystery oil in with the oil to do its job till next oil change 3000 miles

Is this sea foam for cleaning other parts?

not familiar with it .

(my first one ) I have a 1994 Subaru Legacy wagon with a 2.2 and a manual 5 speed . it has only 94 K .

Bought it from original owner it was a 3rd car. $300.00 .

Have put on brakes, fixed clutch cable and drivers door handle, new air filter and spray cleaned mass air flow sensor as well as electrical plug to sensor. Cleaned engine and need to replace emissions switch that goes to gas vapor canister so engine light goes out! Also will do timing belt kit with water pump and oil seals inside since seem to have oil leak from cover.

Took a week to steam clean inside since grand kids left it all sticky . lol

The car is beautiful inside and out! Rare Find !!!!!!!

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new member here.

have always used 1.5 to 2 Quarts of tranny fluid with oil change and new filter to clean sludge out of engine , idle for 30 or so min. and do another oil change with filter and engine breaths great valves are free etc.. Then add a qt. of marvel mystery oil in with the oil to do its job till next oil change 3000 miles

 

I'm not sure why you need to use this method on any newer car - I could see this being the case from the old days. I pulled the pan at 100k or so and there is zero sludge in my engine. If your car is building sludge in 3000 miles, something is very wrong or your oil is terrible. The turbo owners like to run Rotella T6 5w-40 for 3-5k oil change intervals. I typically go about 4000-4500 or so before I change mine.

 

Is this sea foam for cleaning other parts?

not familiar with it .

 

It is a petroleum-based cleaner. You can use it for cleaning anything that needs an organic compound (such as carbon deposits) dissolved.

 

(my first one ) I have a 1994 Subaru Legacy wagon with a 2.2 and a manual 5 speed . it has only 94 K .

Bought it from original owner it was a 3rd car. $300.00 .

Have put on brakes, fixed clutch cable and drivers door handle, new air filter and spray cleaned mass air flow sensor as well as electrical plug to sensor. Cleaned engine and need to replace emissions switch that goes to gas vapor canister so engine light goes out! Also will do timing belt kit with water pump and oil seals inside since seem to have oil leak from cover.

Took a week to steam clean inside since grand kids left it all sticky . lol

The car is beautiful inside and out! Rare Find !!!!!!!

 

Sounds like a good way to spend some free time :)

 

 

 

in the thread you are all talking about a bolt and a filter ? The bolt needs to be in but the filter maybe gone or not .

What bolt is this and what filter also were are they located ?

Thanks

 

 

I assume you're talking about the banjo bolt filter. Don't worry about this unless you have a turbo motor. The issue is that over time some cars deposited metal particulate on the screen and starved the turbo of oil. This had a cascading effect where the turbo would run with low or no oil in the sleeve bearing due to the blockage on the banjo bolt filter. The turbo would deposit bearing metal into the oil pan of the car, where it would inevitably destroy the bearings of the block. Not a good day for a few owners.

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didn't know how often the 94 Subaru was driven so did the tranny fluid flush in the oil before I finished with the 2nd new filter and fresh oil so as to clean anything out that might be there .

I know 94 is along way from the old V8 fords in the 70's but new it would clean anything that was there and help the engine function better.

just never heard of the sea foam.

thanks about the banjo bolt ..... yes , we have no turbo here ! putt putt putt . lol

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didn't know how often the 94 Subaru was driven so did the tranny fluid flush in the oil before I finished with the 2nd new filter and fresh oil so as to clean anything out that might be there .

I know 94 is along way from the old V8 fords in the 70's but new it would clean anything that was there and help the engine function better.

just never heard of the sea foam.

thanks about the banjo bolt ..... yes , we have no turbo here ! putt putt putt . lol

 

[in Russian accent] The turbo... it is sign of unreliability.

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I'm not sure how someone would capture and present objective evidence (data) to support the claims of improved performance, short of pre- and post-dyno data on an top end gunk occluded engine. There's little anecdotal evidence of harm, so if you've never tried it, it might be worth the $8 to see if you notice an improvement.
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That's what I did before and after running multiple consecutive tanks of Red Line SI-1. I made some videos to document the results, it was pretty cool to actually see whether or not products like that performed, and how well they performed.
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My car had 153k when I took the videos below. I bought my car brand new, and it has always consumed 1-2 quarts of oil over a 4k-5k oil change interval. I'm not sure if oil consumption contributes to carbon on the pistons or not, I would imagine that it would.

 

Before red line treatment

front passenger cylinder

http://youtu.be/QmfDN2_kbi0

 

rear passenger cylinder

http://youtu.be/ydvkAJToEhE

 

After 1 bottle of Red Line SI-1

front passenger cylinder

http://youtu.be/F2yIAKZ2T_g

 

rear passenger cylinder

http://youtu.be/AWe2a3Ye7J8

 

 

After a second consecutive bottle of Red Line SI-1

front passenger cylinder

http://youtu.be/gKdPmb_xo-s

 

rear passenger cylinder

http://youtu.be/ydzMmofvhQI

 

 

Overall I was happy with the results. I know some people probably won't be impressed, but the Red Line did exactly what I wanted it to do. I was afraid of removing too much carbon too fast, I didn't want to ruin the brand new catalytic converter subaru installed under warranty at around 130k.

 

The videos are a little choppy (hard to control the borescope when it's in the cylinder) and the quality isn't the best (dirt under the lens, that doesn't appear to be removable), but for a $40 borescope (http://amzn.com/B007ROP3FO) it gets the job done.

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