tominator19

Yeah the best I was able to get out of this situation was to constantly berate Subaru of America until they eventually they gave me a voucher thing for $500 worth of Subaru parts and/or service. Naturally, I spent it all on parts for the brake line replacement and restoration project that I ended up doing myself which was terrible. Here's the video walkthrough I made in case anybody else wants to see what the process is like:

This is a cover for the trunk area for Legacy/Outback wagons from 2000-2004. It's from a 2003 Outback. It works well! The Subaru part number is 65550AE01BDG, and the color is the "brown" version. $125 picked up. I am willing to ship it at the buyer's expense.

actually, for that video, I missed some stuff that I had meant to add at the end, so I uploaded a new video and updated that link in my previous post.

Gotdayum, I finally finished putting my massive video together. I took the aggressive approach and replaced the brake line assemblies, partially because it was a great opportunity to do a serious rust restoration. Hope this helps at least somebody!

Oh boy, am I teetering on the edge of brake line failure. Check out this picture. Cityside Subaru in Belmont, MA claims that Subaru of America will only honor the recall and cover the cost of the brake line replacement if the lines are ACTUALLY LEAKING, which is terrifying. BRB, let me crash my car due to brake failure to get my brake line replacement covered

Oh boy, am I teetering on the edge of brake line failure. Check out this picture. Cityside Subaru in Belmont, MA claims that Subaru of America will only honor the recall and cover the cost of the brake line replacement if the lines are ACTUALLY LEAKING, which is terrifying. BRB, let me crash my car due to brake failure to get my brake line replacement covered

What's going on with this guy? He's talking about using modifications to the CAN signals to adjust for steering rack differences to keep VDC after an STI steering rack swap. "STEERING SENSOR CAN-ID 0X2 ... This info has been successfully used for steering rack swap, i.e. mating STI part with standard model. By translating this CAN frame data, a different steering ratio can be used with properly functioning VDC." https://subdiesel.wordpress.com/ecu-analysis/can-messages/

Hot damn, am I seeing this correctly? The bumper is currently $888.37 USD with a to-door shipping cost of $1,186.36 USD for a total of $2,074.73 USD? updated URL for the 107-034-S part: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/11874

Hot damn, am I seeing this correctly? The bumper is currently $888.37 USD with a to-door shipping cost of $1,186.36 USD for a total of $2,074.73 USD? updated URL for the 107-034-S part: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/11874

So do you guys believe that this JDM Outback bumper (Japanparts # 107-034-S) will also fit on a 2008 USDM Outback with the other modifications you guys have discussed? I ask because Japanparts' site does distinguish the two different model year ranges for the BL/BP chassis (for looking up car models in general, not with the bumper): Legacy 2003-05 BL/BP A-C Liberty: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/category.php?dl=1&cm=6 Legacy 2006-08 BL/BP D-F Liberty: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/category.php?dl=1&cm=141 I don't see any differentiation between the two model year ranges because I can't find a version of the JDM Outback bumper that's specific to "Legacy 2006-08 BL/BP D-F Liberty", so I do think it will fit on a USDM 2008 Outback. Thoughts?

So do you guys believe that this JDM Outback bumper (Japanparts # 107-034-S) will also fit on a 2008 USDM Outback with the other modifications you guys have discussed? I ask because Japanparts' site does distinguish the two different model year ranges for the BL/BP chassis (for looking up car models in general, not with the bumper): Legacy 2003-05 BL/BP A-C Liberty: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/category.php?dl=1&cm=6 Legacy 2006-08 BL/BP D-F Liberty: https://www.japanparts.com/parts/category.php?dl=1&cm=141 I don't see any differentiation between the two model year ranges because I can't find a version of the JDM Outback bumper that's specific to "Legacy 2006-08 BL/BP D-F Liberty", so I do think it will fit on a USDM 2008 Outback. Thoughts?

The Perrin damper lockdown is not a U-joint. It is a modification to a U-joint from an Outback, Legacy, or WRX. The Perrin part does not change the form factor / length of the U-joint. It's only to increase the rotational stiffness. If you are swapping this rack into an otherwise-unmodified Outback, I'm pretty sure you need to use the Outback U-joint, as that's the only one that's long enough. I believe Legacy, WRX, and STI U-joints are all the same length, which is shorter than the Outback's.

I got in touch with Subaru of America and they confirmed that the Type RA has a 13:1 rack: "Thank you for contacting Subaru of America, Inc. We appreciate you taking time out of your day to contact us. The 2018 STI RA features a 13:1 steering ratio. Thanks for the opportunity to be of assistance."

My dumb ass didn't realize that the 11:1 rack for only the JDM S207 and S208 would be right-hand drive, which isn't super compatible with left-hand drive cars.

Anybody know anything about the rack in the STI Type RA? The part number for its rack is 34110VA140 which is different from that of the original 2015+ STI (34110VA120). In Japan, the S207 and S208 special edition STIs have an 11:1 ratio. Could it be that this rack finally made it into a USDM car (the Type RA)? What I also can't figure out is why there are more different part numbers for the non-Type RA 2018 STI rack: 34110VA130 34110VA131 You can see the supported car variants for those two parts here: https://parts.citysidesubaru.com/a/Subaru_2018_STI-STI-Limited-25L-TURBO-6MT/_54100_6464454/POWER-STEERING-GEAR-BOX-FITTING-EXCEPS/V10-347-03.html

Btw, the part number for the A-pillar trim panel in the OP is slightly off. It's tough to figure out which circles are zeros vs. Os. Here's the correct number: TRIM PANEL-A PILLAR,UPPER LEFT: 94010AG09AOR Also, if you want the right side for some reason: TRIM PANEL-A PILLAR,UPPER RIGHT: 94010AG08AOR

In what way did the Spec.B stock wheels not clear? Are they not offset enough, too small in inner diameter, something else, or a combination?

You should definitely be able to do that. However, you'd likely have to use that signal to control a relay that would give your LED DRL a full 12 volts when they're supposed to be turned on. The stock halogen high beam & DRL bulb can be driven at a lower voltage, but an LED light system probably can't. It might flicker or not work at all.

I know I'm ridiculously late to this party, but I FIGURED IT OUT! Cut the thick red wire (pin #5) on the white connector for the DRL module: http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag28/tomsanity/Other%20stuff/IMAG0307_zpsctgc2sdq.jpg Then, leave both connectors plugged in. You'll have DRLs disabled and your dashboard indicator light for your high beams working! This was done on a 2008 Outback XT and is almost definitely the same for a 2009. For the curious: I had to look in the wiring diagram and learn the circuit to figure it out. That red wire (pin #5) on the white connector is the wire that the DRL module would use to drive the high beam bulbs at low power to give you your DRLs. The wire that the DRL module uses to drive the high beam bulbs at high power to give you your high beams is the red wire (pin #3) on the other black connector on the DRL module. That's why your high beams still work when you have only the white connector unplugged. However, the indicator light for the high beams on the dashboard uses pin 4 of the white connector (green wire with a red stripe). Now go install some LED high beams! That's why I was doing this mod.

Woops, sorry, I thought I answered this. I didn't end up trying this for 2 reasons: I don't trust that the result will actually be appropriate for the car. It could be totally off and I would have no idea. I've noticed that the off-the-shelf maps seem to act really weird for me, so I'd like to just get away from them entirely and do a legit dyno tune. With the off-the-shelf stage 2 map, during a full-throttle runup in 2nd gear, I always lose power around 3500 RPM for a split second and then get it right back, causing the car to jerk, sometimes violently. Of course it could be something else, but I'm willing to bet that it's the map's fault.

you are the tits. PM'd you my email, thanks! please make sure it's the SF intake maps. While I'm here, I suppose I could also ask people about my idea: Cobb doesn't make off-the-shelf maps for the 2007-2009 LGT that are configured for their short intake. Mine is a 2008. They do, however, make those maps for the 2006-2007. They only make one LGT intake that physically fits all of 2005-2009, so I was thinking about creating a modified version of the appropriate off-the-shelf map where I plug in the MAF calibration data that Cobb used in the 2006-2007 off-the-shelf maps. I've talked to a few knowledgable people off of the forums about it, and it seems like it should work fine. Thoughts?

Could I ask somebody with a MY05-06 and an Accessport to use Accesstuner Race to look at the off-the-shelf maps designed for the SF intake and get me the tables for the "MAF Calibration" and "MAF Compensation (Intake Temp)"? They're under the "Sensor Calibrations" directory in the Accesstuner Race software. Thanks!

That ebay one might be for the non-turbo engines which would have a shorter timing belt since. I used this kit for my 2008 LGT about 5 months ago and recommend it simply because it worked and has been doing fine: http://www.fredbeansparts.com/gates-racing-subaru-timing-component-kit-s-with-kevlar-racing-timing-belt.html

Yeah, I did lol why not? This guy put out the best instructional step-by-step repair video that I've ever seen. How many videos have "actual engineers" put out to help us out?

See my first post, #136.