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guess its just a crap shoot sometimes.

 

On the oppposite end of the spectrum, there's the guy that uses motul oil, amsoil filters, meticulously cares for there car, and seldom whales on it.. .and they blow an engine or turbo at 40k miles.

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On the oppposite end of the spectrum, there's the guy that uses motul oil, amsoil filters, meticulously cares for there car, and seldom whales on it.. .and they blow an engine or turbo at 40k miles.

 

...sometimes it has nothing to do with oil.

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yeah, the magnet actually will create a negative ionic charge, and the beneficial protons within the oil with actually cling to the oil fill cap rather than the internal metal components.

 

its science.

 

:)

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the ones sold in nebraska. As they are legally allowed to use certain additives in the filter making process.

 

wait a minute... i was the one who regenerated this thread with a question about oil!!!! lol

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Just curious.

 

How many of you heard of an engine that broke down or weared out prematurely, due to a certain motor oil?

 

This world seems to run on money, and if you want to sell something, you must tell stories.

 

Oil is not that magic.;)

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There's a lot of people out there that 'swear against' a certain oil. Most likely a coincidental occurence of engine failure and the use of that oil. Look at Mobil 1 for instance... Some people are 100% sold that mobil 1 was the failure of their engines a few years back... And other say that mobil 1 gets 'eaten' by their cars more than rotella or motul, etc... I can't confirm either. My buddy's wrx failed while running mobil 1. Now he runs conventional and he has more miles on it than his first engine. Coincidence, who knows. But likely.

 

Everyone has an opinion i guess. sometimes its credible, sometimes not.

 

The prior owner of my car was meticulous, only running motul oil. i cant easily get motul near me, so i have gone to redline. However im paying out the wazzoo for it. I probably dont need it, but im a bit Type A about caring for my baby. lol

 

I love the way subaru's extra s soothed my noisy 6MT, so i have been thinking about using subies new synthetic oil. Not to mention its easier to get, and a heck of a lot cheaper. i get my oil change done at the dealer, so the convenience and dealer relationship building is nice.

 

So basically, im just out here for fishing for stories about the new subie synthetic. Like there are stories about mobil 1, and the others. I figure since there are so many strong opinions on this forum, i have come to the right place! lol. at the end of the day, i guess oil is oil with just some additive differences.

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i guess oil is oil with just some additive differences.
Now your very close. ;)

 

Mr.engine revisor tells me Oil company's tell a lot of bullocks about their products. All modern oil will do, even guys with 0W30 apear not to get problems in any way.

And the oilfilm between metal parts is not related to viscousity as one should think, it's a bit more complicated.

 

The only broken down engines he get's daily, none of them failed due to a brand or viscosity.

 

What he sees daily, in the following order:

 

-Blown piston(s) due to heavy detonations (For example MAF failure)

-Big end bearing, couse the weak std. rod's which deform at the endcaps on high rpm's.

-Overheating due to coolant leakage

-Oil starvation due to leakage or oilpump problems.

-Parts sucked up by compressorside

 

 

Funny other fact:

 

There are guys with Mercedes diesel engines, who never change oil.

The only thing they do is adding some fresh oil now and then, when the level is lowered, and get away with it for at 300k miles or more...

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I know the difference between mineral oil and synthetic, but I wonder how many of you do.

If you want to do some research, look up PAO and ester synthetics. If you really want to learn something, figure out which synthetic motor oils use what type of base oil and if there are any available that blend them and why.

BTW, I don't ask questions like this without knowing the answers. But, since I was told I was unedumacated, I'll keep what I know to myself.

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Almost 155k, my OCI avg.12k with Amsoil 0w-30 SSO & Ea oil filters( filters down to 15 microns. And down to 2 microns with a by-pass filtration which I run. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/get-your-oil-filtration-down-2-microns-81741.html?p=1715611#post1715611 Cobb st1 93 map, max boost is still 16.2psi. Original Motor & Turbo are running like new.

 

The smaller the dirt you can filter out of the oil, the less wear on the motor. Most off the shelf oil filters, filters down between 20 & 40 microns. Amsoil full-flow oil filter is 15 microns & Amsoil By-Pass oil filter is 2 microns.

 

This filtration system add 2qts. of oil to you motor. Which help keep the oil cooler.

 

In short, the cooler & cleaner you keep your oil. The long your oil, motor & turbo will last.

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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cooler and cleaner. Yea, that's why I like to coast and let the oil cool before I turn off the engine.

 

139,700 + miles all on cheap A$$ dino oil and mainly fram filters.

 

Hi Mike. :)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Funny other fact:

 

There are guys with Mercedes diesel engines, who never change oil.

The only thing they do is adding some fresh oil now and then, when the level is lowered, and get away with it for at 300k miles or more...

 

my uncle's 2003 honda odyssey has never been in an oil change before, he only top the oil up whenever it's low, the car is now 185k miles with no engine problem.

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Been using dino oil with no consumption.
An engine always uses oil.

 

It would be impossible the oil would not come in the combustionchamber, cause it's allways on the cilinderwall.

 

The fact your level on the dipstick doens't change, is cause gas gets into the oil. This is especially a thing with Subaru's turbo engines, cause the are standard pretty on the rich side.

Normally they run a fulll engineload AFR of aprox. 10.3/10.5:1 which is pretty rich. The idea behind this is better cilinderwall cooling.

The side effect (Apart form high consumption) is the gaz dilution, so oil get's more raw in time.

 

Subaru turbo engines that get stage-I Ecutek remap (18psi), usually go to 11.2/11.5:1 AFR with an TMIC, depending on turbosize. With a frontmount, AFR can get up to 12+ AFR.

And of course altered ingition timing.

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cooler and cleaner. Yea, that's why I like to coast and let the oil cool before I turn off the engine.

 

139,700 + miles all on cheap A$$ dino oil and mainly fram filters.

 

Hi Mike. :)

 

Hi Max,

 

If I have to add a qt. of oil as often as you do(I think you stated every 1000 mile). I would be doing the same thing. Has we stated before, It more important to check your oil level often (every fill-up to once a week for me) and keep your oil at the correct level.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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The right way to do an extended oil change interval is to use oil anaylisis. I have done this in the past on a Ford 2.3 in a Ranger. Went 70,000 w/o changing oil only the main filter and Amsoil bypass. The oil anaylis is read by knoledgeable people and you get the results and reccomendations. Oil anaylis can be done by Amsoil,Blackstone and others. A lot of diesel heads do this. It is especially Important in a diesel because of soot buildup without proper filtration.
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