HAMMER DOWN Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 ^^^ what he said, My OA's on G\f's 2L WRX & my 2.5 GT come back good for continuous use. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/avg-12k-oa-results-82383.html Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDan Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 Here's another piece of knowledge: Oil performs more critical component cooling than the cooling system. The cooling system is only on the outside of the cylinders and some of the intake. Adding oil volume with a cooler or increased filter will keep the internal engine temps lower. BTW, there are only 2 reasons to change oil: contamination and loss of additives. The loss of additives contributes to the contamination. Part of the additive package is a cleanser and another part helps keep solid particulates suspended so they get to the filter. Other key parts of the additive package are ,film strength, viscosity stabilizers, multi-viscosity, and oxidation inhibitors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 So coolant isn't important? This thread is full of very useful information. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 So coolant isn't important? This thread is full of very useful information. - Yet another Raoism! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDan Posted January 9, 2011 Share Posted January 9, 2011 So coolant isn't important? This thread is full of very useful information. Only on air cooled engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 I installed a 100 gallon dry sump system and removed my radiator. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Eagle Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blklgt05 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 After lots of research off of BITOG forums and comparing UOA on multiple boxer motors with different oil, I decided to use Shell's Rotella T6 5w40 oil and Purolator's PureOne filters. While they are not one of the most expensive oil and filters out there, they sure perform just as good and better than some of the more expensive stuff other there. http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s253/blklgt05/10LGT/photo.jpg just my $0.02 mod journal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGAL8899 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 I've been trolling on fredbeans and found this http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/maintenance/subaru-sae-5w-30-subaru-synthetic-motor-oil.html "With the ever changing technology in today’s vehicles, it has never been so important to be selective on the motor oil we put into the vehicles we service. Subaru is no exception! That is why Subaru of America Inc. is announcing the Genuine Subaru 5W-30 Motor Oil. -Recommended for (2010 and prior) Turbo-charged engines but is required for all 2011 Turbo charged engines. -This oil is also excellent for all non-turbo vehicles with the exception of the new 2011" does anyone have any experience with it? After the honeywell oil filter, I find myself hard to trust any SOA's product. Look like if u dont use this oil for your 2011 turbo, you will void your car's warranty hahaha So where can u get this oil? Do u have to get it from Subaru? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 its an oem oil... so its only available at dealers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Eagle Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 5W30 is pretty thin when hot. Too find out what's best for our (EU) turbocharged Subaru engines, here in Holland we had an engineer of Kendall Oil taken oil samples from 150+ car's. (This fellow also works on the best oil for top-fuel dragsters) The samples where taken to the Kendall labaratories for analysis, and checked on everything you can imagine. So traces of metals from all engineparts, but also dilution with gas, sand, etc. According to the engineer turbocharged performance engines like our's should not use rather thin oil, cause the engine's produce pretty high torque at relatively low rpm's. An other item is, they can also run relatively high top rpm's. These fact's plus outcome of the oilreport, the conclusion was: All 0W.. and ..W30 samples contained more metal parts than average. The range 5W40, 10W40, and 5W50 came out best, with 5W50 as the absolute winner. According to this engineer, most car manufacturers prescribe thinner oils, cause of the cold start. In practice most people do not take the time for the engine oil to reach working temperature. Premature wear out could be an item then. 5W50 provides a healthy cold start, and a good lubrification on high temperatures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 Lurking thru posts on Bobistheoilguy I came across a goldmine of data for Subarus and Used Oil Analysis of various oils. The spreadsheet shows all data of UOA but further down the forum there is data generalized and filtered by copper and iron presence in analysis for various oils. Mobil1 does not look too good comparing to other synthetics. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1293170&page=all __________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyDan Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 While that is interesting, it remains unclear which Mobil 1 they are using. Also, in case you don't know, Royal Purple 21 racing oil is a 0w-20, mostly used in motorcycle racing. If you really want a R.P. racing oil use #11. It was developed for turbo, nitrous, supercharged applications where engines experience extreme loads on main bearings. Using Rotella T synthetic isn't a bad idea either. That is a diesel oil, made for turbo diesels and has additives for very high bearing loads, better cleaning, better contamination suspension, and will protect all engine bearings better than most automobile oils. It wouldn't be an oil I'd use if I had factory warranty (no R.P. racing either), but I didn't use it this oil change because of the 40w upper viscosity in winter. The upside of Rotella T is, you can buy this in gallon jugs at Walmart for about $20. I run this oil in my lawnmower, motorcycles (old air-cooled Hondas) and old Honda 3 wheelers. Next summer, it will be in the Car too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 5W30 is pretty thin when hot. Too find out what's best for our (EU) turbocharged Subaru engines, here in Holland we had an engineer of Kendall Oil taken oil samples from 150+ car's. (This fellow also works on the best oil for top-fuel dragsters) The samples where taken to the Kendall labaratories for analysis, and checked on everything you can imagine. So traces of metals from all engineparts, but also dilution with gas, sand, etc. According to the engineer turbocharged performance engines like our's should not use rather thin oil, cause the engine's produce pretty high torque at relatively low rpm's. An other item is, they can also run relatively high top rpm's. These fact's plus outcome of the oilreport, the conclusion was: All 0W.. and ..W30 samples contained more metal parts than average. The range 5W40, 10W40, and 5W50 came out best, with 5W50 as the absolute winner. According to this engineer, most car manufacturers prescribe thinner oils, cause of the cold start. In practice most people do not take the time for the engine oil to reach working temperature. Premature wear out could be an item then. 5W50 provides a healthy cold start, and a good lubrification on high temperatures. Quite interesting. Was there any analysis of the composition of the metal parts? I have a habit of trying to run a magnetic oil plug, and that should at least not be a disadvantage since it attracts the magnetic particles that floats around in the engine. So even if I'm not catching all metal particles I'm probably catching the harder ones - the ones most likely to do damage. Last time I did an oil change I did use 0W40, which I think suits me best. I could probably have gone for 5W40 too, it's a balance between trying to lower the fuel consumption and not wearing down the engine too much. I think that stepping up one step is sufficient for most of us, going two steps is probably a good idea if you have Stage 2 and up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dutch Eagle Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Yeah, there was a complete analysis of all metals. The 0W40 had more Iron, Copper, Lead, etc. than the 5W or 10W samples. The complete analysis report used to be online on a Dutch forum, but it is no longer there. I will try and find it somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Lurking thru posts on Bobistheoilguy I came across a goldmine of data for Subarus and Used Oil Analysis of various oils. The spreadsheet shows all data of UOA but further down the forum there is data generalized and filtered by copper and iron presence in analysis for various oils. Mobil1 does not look too good comparing to other synthetics. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1293170&page=all __________________ I have read bad things about Mobil 1 Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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