my Subaru will beat with a Buick heart!

[frank_ster]

^ the 4 eat i would think is modular you would only need to change the shafts and related parts.

 

the cvt i have no information on if someone has the shop manual for the cvt it would be great !

[frank_ster]

The next question - is it possible to upgrade a 4EAT to VTD if it doesn't have it? And further - a CVT to VTD?

 

I suspect that it would be hard to upgrade to DCCD.

 

a 5 eat is pretty much the same a sti 6mt and could easily be a dccd setup.

[frank_ster]

for further questions about rwd 4wd conversion go to this thread.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/rwd-4-wd-conversion-5eat-208444.html

[frank_ster]

so the buckaru turned 220 000 km on the weekend.

 

other than that i noticed i have massive tow in on the rear wheels. the inner upper bushings are shot and it looks like i have to pull the subframe off to change them. I tried to adjust the tow but the rear bushings are sized onto the bolts so i cant get them out!!!.

 

kinda feel like changing cars.. thinking of geting a touareg and put my buick motor in that

Edited August 14, 2013 by frank_ster

[stm25rs]

so the buckaru turned 220 000 km on the weekend.

 

other than that i noticed i have massive tow in on the rear wheels. the inner upper bushings are shot and it looks like i have to pull the subframe off to change them. I tried to adjust the tow but the rear bushings are sized onto the bolts so i cant get them out!!!.

 

kinda feel like changing cars.. thinking of geting a touareg and put my buick motor in that

 

I got a quote from IAG Performance for new tires, and he recommended new rear bushings at the same time since mine are pretty rusted - very frequent issue on these cars apparently. He said it can take anywhere from 2-4 hours to remove the seized bushings, depending on how smoothly the torching and hammering goes.

[Sideways the Seven]

Had the same issue with mine, but it only took the tech about an hour.

[frank_ster]

i guess it depends on witch bushings. th inner upper require the subrame to be dropped as far as i can tell and that means the brake lines and hand brake cables drivershaft and exhaust need to come off. i'll try and tackle this today

[frank_ster]

Dropped the rear subframe and changed the upper inner rear control arm bushings. They were metal on metal and the rear wheels were cambered in big time.

So now everything is all strait.

I left the driveshaft and differential together and the swing arm with all the brakes intact.

I need to get the lower rear inner bushings. And new toe adjustment bolts.

And swap those out. But everything was taken apart and I coated all the bolts in anti seize.

__________________

[ClimberDHexMods]

kinda feel like changing cars.. thinking of geting a touareg and put my buick motor in that

 

Not sure if serious...

[bucko3the7man]

I wouldn't put it past him

[frank_ster]

bukaru seems to be sick.. missing on cylinder number 4 at idle and slight throttle at full throttle its perfect. i swapped the injectors and spark plugs for that cylinder and no improvement.

and there is no blowby so i can only think its the intake valve as i see some fluttering when the missfire happens on the boost gauge.

 

i was planning on pulling the heads to install thinner head gaskets i want to tighten up the quench band anyways.

[heiche]

Loose rocker arm bolt? Bent pushrod?

 

Well, you're still running on 1 more cylinder than the rest of us

[JmP6889928]

bukaru seems to be sick.. missing on cylinder number 4 at idle and slight throttle at full throttle its perfect. i swapped the injectors and spark plugs for that cylinder and no improvement.

and there is no blowby so i can only think its the intake valve as i see some fluttering when the missfire happens on the boost gauge.

 

i was planning on pulling the heads to install thinner head gaskets i want to tighten up the quench band anyways.

 

You COULD try an old remedy for a possible stuck or bad intake valve. Take a spray bottle and fill it with water and mist it down the throttle body and see if it helps. A lot of times a speck of carbon can weld it's way onto the valve surface or the seat and the water will help to burn it off. Usually if this is the issue, you can mist about 1/2 a cup of water through and it will burn off the carbon. If you get through that much water and it doesn't help, then you have another issue.

 

As was stated before, then begin looking at the mechanical portion-bent pushrod, valve keeper cracked or broken, broken spring. You can see these easily enough if you disconnect the coil, remove the rocker cover, and turn it over with the starter.

 

Good luck with it.

[subiestang]

I've also seen bent valves straighten when performing a leakdown. When running it had a miss at idle but drove just fine.

[JmP6889928]

You can do the same with trans fluid if you think the valve is stuck in the guide. That will sometimes knock a stuck valve loose too.

[frank_ster]

I checked the valve train already

I blew with my mouth into the cylinder via 3/8" fuel hose and it seemed fine.

What I did notice is that valve and keeper is slightly higher than the one next to it.

I'm just gonna pull the head it's about a 20 min job on a pushrod v6. I just hate haveing an immobile car in the way .

 

I tried cleaning out the engine via my 650 cc injectors and 100% duty cycle and didn't help a bit

Interesting how I can just flood kill it at 5 lbs boost lol!

Edited August 23, 2013 by frank_ster

[frank_ster]

so i think i found the problem. after about 450 000 km those roller lifters .. well 2 died.

the two associated with that cylinder are slightly damaged and the intake one has a slight flat spot. so i figure it pumped up enough to hold that intake valve open at idle and part throttle area.

 

now the question is if i need to replace that cam it has some markings on it but the profile is still there.. the surface is just not smooth.

 

the cam is specaial order ..

[heiche]

wonder it was just normal wear (that's a lot of miles/km), or if something else contributed, like those lifters weren't getting enough oil?

[frank_ster]

^ i had a bunch of random valve springs break a while back .. so would of been some smashing into the side of the ramp instead of following them up. all the others look like brand new..

 

i was thinking about it i'll just throw 2 other used lifters in and throw it back together.

[frank_ster]

so threw it back together on Saturday with the thinner head gaskets and 2 more used lifters. fired right up and put over 500 km on it since and so far so good !

[heiche]

Good to hear. So thinner head gaskets = a bit more compression?

So how much boost are you running these days?

[frank_ster]

^ yea i wanted to get the quench band to realistic numbers.

 

still running 5 lbs boost. i got a boost control solenoid so i'll eventually wire it up.

 

this poor engine is carbon ing up always practically idling.

[frank_ster]

went through and trimmed a bunch of wires from under the hood last night. good lot of wires i didn't have the heart to cut them when i first set up the megasquirt!

just wasnt sure if i was going to make big changes or not

[frank_ster]

so i put the stock cam back in .. i had some other issues, ie the cam button spring broke .. because i changed the waterpump last year and one of the bolts i ground shorter and i didn't put it back in the correct spot, witch broke the cam button spring allowing the cam to walk ahead and thus my problem with the roller lifters.

 

with the stock cam in the idle is amazingly smooth

the stock cam lobe lift is .245" with 1.55 rockers that .379 valve lift.

 

here is a video of it idling with the stock cam.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCL3zbivYVo&feature=youtu.be

[ClimberDHexMods]

Much better! Less overlap FTW. You have a turbo so probably don't want it having much overlap anyways...